Stick Welder

[JayL]

Hi,

Can anybody please give some advises on a reasonably priced Stick Welding Machine with acceptable quality. I would be using this around the house for maintenance work and in the workshop building metal bits and pieces . I have checked the market ( malls and binondo area) and was overwhelmed by the different stick welding machines sold around wherein I could not get enough information to make a decision.

I thought it was probably better to ask here for some real world feedbacks.

Thanks ....

[opzuk4x4]

I have tried those small welding machines (with stainless housing and blower). It is light and compact, perfect for repairs. I have 2 bigger ones(300A) but my welder prefers the compact unit because of its ease in transport and ease in set-up. It had been 2+ years already and it is still working fine until now. I would not recommend the capacitor looking direct connect welding machine, Yes its cheap but can mess up your electrical system. HTH!

[bbn]

Nice post opzuk4x4. I've always wondered what those small welding units are. I'm no expert, I'm just a hobby-welder. For what it is worth, I bought my 300A Yamato welding machine .... I don't know how many years ago ... maybe 7 or 8 ... and I can't say I'm unhappy with it. I've used it for most everything from heavy work (boat trailer) to light work (SS fittings).

I do have one recommendation: Get 1st grade welding cable. I got 2nd grade cable now the insulation has become brittle so bare wire is exposed all over its length.

[opzuk4x4]

I do have one recommendation: Get 1st grade welding cable. I got 2nd grade cable now the insulation has become brittle so bare wire is exposed all over its length.



I couldn't agree more bro!

[JayL]

Tks for your replies. Welding Newbie here.

Is the Yamato 300A an AC / DC machine or AC only. How much do you think is the price now?

regards .... JAY

[bbn]

My Yamato is AC only and I think they cost around P8k now.

Tip: I rent it out around the neighborhood for P300 a day, I should be able to buy a new cable soon :).

[jacorb_88]

Anybody checked out Increweld. It's worth 3,500. Locally made/invented. It's less than the size of a shoe box. Judging from the Youtube video, it's quite light. You can check the net for more information.

Unlike some of the newer machines which you can plug in directly through the ordinary household sockets, Increweld is still directly wired from the main source.

Experts here may scrutinize the product and give feedback. I still have secound thoughts until I get real world assessment.

[bbn]

Jacorb, I think that is the capacitor type mentioned above. I don't really know though.

[opzuk4x4]

Anybody checked out Increweld. It's worth 3,500. Locally made/invented. It's less than the size of a shoe box. Judging from the Youtube video, it's quite light. You can check the net for more information.

Unlike some of the newer machines which you can plug in directly through the ordinary household sockets, Increweld is still directly wired from the main source.

Experts here may scrutinize the product and give feedback. I still have secound thoughts until I get real world assessment.
Yep, that's the capacitor type I was referring to. Unless your mains are #6 or bigger then this is not for you. They say #8 will suffice but the mains still heat up considerably. They also recommend a grounding rod deep enough. So, in other words you have a compact welding machine but too cumbersome to operate. It is also not variable unlike the yamatos. Just my two cents.

[jacorb_88]

Ah I c. What's with variable yamatos?

[opzuk4x4]

Ah I c. What's with variable yamatos?

All conventional boxed type electric arc welding machines have current rate adjustments for different type of welding applications. Like welding thin plates and thick sections.

[bbn]

Variablibility is a very good thing to have because then you can weld a wider range of thicknesses. For example when I weld SS tubes, I set it very low. When I welded the frame of my trailer I set it to maximum.

[JayL]

How about choices of Electrodes?

[bbn]

Yes aparently you need to choose your electrodes too but I always just ask my the supplier what would the appropriate one to use.

By the way, if you have leftover electrodes or you buy more than you need, remember to keep them in a plastic bag or airtight container so moisture does not seep into them.

[fourtheboys96]

hi! I am also thinking of asking my wife to give me a welding machine as a christmas gift (instead of the long delayed guitar). What I've seen so far are those compact type arc welders sold in the malls (ACE, Handyman). From what I've read in the Hayne's Manual, arc welders are fairly common and can have a lot of uses.

My questions are:

Besides the mall, where can I buy affordable welding machines that can be used occasionally around the house? Those in ACE are priced around Php5.5K. (one american brand and the other one is Fuji)

What types of metals can an arc welder work on?

Finally, what are the specs should I consider in choosing a good welder?

Thanks a lot!

[bbn]

Your wife can save a bit if you buy from an industrial supply store. Of course Binondo offers the best prices but it is not the ideal place for non-professionals like you and I.

For light duty work even a 100A unit will do. This will be small enough to store almost anywhere and you won't need a separate breaker for one. The only thing is as you grow in your use a 100A might not be good enough. I'm not a pro so I don't know if there are techniques to get around this.

To weld metals other than regular steel you'll need to use special welding rods. I know there are special electrodes for stainless steel and cast iron though I've only used those for stainless steel. Special electrodes are a bit pricey but still affordable. I've heard of welding rods for aluminum but only the AAA welders can acceptably use them. Here's a tip: it is a lot easier to get good results welding steel if you use the welding rods for stainless steel.

I have a 300A Yamato (I think) welder at home. This is the maximum a hobbyist would need I think. As far as I know this is the smallest of the "typical" welding machines. Usually, I weld small things so it is normally set to something below 100A. I've only used it to its maximum when I made a trailer for our boat.

By the way, you'll also need an angle grinder, and don't forget the safety equipment.

[nicomambo]

I just bought my 1st welding machine at Alonzo St., Manila yesterday. It was also my 1st time in that area. Nakakataranta pala sa dami ng gamit dun! Before going there, I only canvassed at DIY stores and the cheapest I saw was around Php 6k.

I was choosing between a 220A portable (Php 4.4k) a 175A standard Yamato brand (Php3.8k). Portable is just slightly bigger than a car battery, and the standard was about 3-4 times bigger.

Even if the portable unit had a bigger current rating, the shop owner still recommended the Yamato because it is "heavy duty". It is bigger, but it can still be carried by 1 person. It also has a heat sensor to shut down the unit in case it overheats.

[bbn]

"Heat Senor" - that's new. Congratulations.

I guess we know where the extra bucks are going to go in the near future.

You'll also need some clamps and a "tick-tick" hammer (sorry I don't know what it is called). Also, get a couple of steel brushes.

[fourtheboys96]

tnx! i have not been to alnzo st. but i heard a lot can be bought there.

if its near raon, that'll be great.

btw, those in ACE (FUJI, i guess japan made) are rated 300A so i guess that's more than what i need around the house.

Eagle brand is 250A.

you suggest those need separate breakers. what i see from local talyers are welding machines with improvised breakers attached to it. they usually tap the electricity directly from the breaker box of the house by-passing the breakers meant for the lights and the plugs (and possibly saving them). is this a correct practice?

[bbn]

Always the idea with breakers is you want to protect the wire so breakers should always be at the junction box. My shop has a satellite junction box which if fed from a 100A breaker in the junction box in our house. The feeder from the house terminates in another 100A in the shop junction box. The welder is then tapped to a 75A (maybe 60A not sure) breaker in the shop junction box. All the breakers are rated based on the size of the wire they protect, not the loads.

Yup 300A is more than enough for household work. You can even use it for occasional heavy work but it would be wise to keep an eye (hand) on how hot the welding machine gets.

Remember stay safe, use the proper safety equipment.

[fourtheboys96]

ok thanks for the useful information!

[JayL]

I got this quote for a Stick welder:

YAMATO 200A machine = 5,500

Upgrades :

Jackson 300A Welding Rod Handle ( is this the correct term? ) - 600
Welding Cable 10m - 1,500

Total = 7,600 pesos .

Is this a good price ?

tks

[bbn]

Sounds reasonable.

Better also have them include the other stuff you'll need but don't have yet. This way you can haggle a little more. My welding stuff includes: welding mask, a "tik-tik" hammer (don't know the term, sorry) and an assortment of vise grip clamps. The clamps can be a bit costly but over the years I've noticed that these kinds of things often go on sale.

[JayL]

Yeah I think it would be wise to include if possible the other basic welding needs in order to squeeze some more discounts. If I am not mistaken the tik tik hammer is called a Chipping Hammer.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00920729000P

[bbn]

Chipping Hammer - got that thanks!

If you want to splurge, I buy a auto darkening welding mask. This has been on my list and it really is not that expensive. I suggest it because I think it would make welding a lot easier. I've done a good amount of welding but I always find I have to practice a bit to get the hang of it even just after a few weeks of not having done any welding.

[JayL]

So which auto darkening Hood are you looking at? Will this work for MIG welding as well?

[bbn]

Hmmm come to think about it I can't remember which mall hardware store it was. If anyone can make suggestions that would great.

I've never used one but I suppose it would work with MIG. On the other hand, from what I understand of MIG, you might not need an auto darkening mask since starting and maintaining the arc is done automatically by the welding unit.

I'd like an auto darkening mask because I often make mistakes starting the arc with my stick welder and end up getting temporarily blinded.

[bbn]

Replace my welding cables last Saturday so I thought I'd post the costs for the benefit of others.

The cable cost P38/foot and is rated for 300A. P450 for the holder, and P200 for the ground clamp. All are industrial quality because my neighbors and our village association have made a habit of borrowing it.

[OT]: I also had the brushes and brush caps replace on my LG angle grinder. The whole cost only about P200. I was surprise that brush caps could be bought. Someone broke one of the brush caps a long time ago and I've been holding the brush in place with a rubber strap.

[fourtheboys96]

I was able to visit some hardware stores in Alozo St. near Ongpin. Some stores were closed. Those that were open offered prices that were a lot cheaper that what I first saw in ACE.

I was initially thinking of about a 200A welder but after I saw how big a 175A Yamato welder is, I'm leaning towards the min 160A. These were the prices I got:

Yamato 160A - Php3,600 to 3,800 (compact type stainless steel body)
Fuji 160A - Php3,800 (compact type stainless steel body)
PowerStar (Japan din) - Php2,500 (compact type yellow body)

Yamato 175A - around Php4,100 (with automatic shut-off)

I was almost tempted to buy the Yamato 160A but I was short in cash. Didn't bring cash for safety reasons because my main purpose was to go to Quiapo and Raon. And also, my wife was having second thoughts already even if I will be the one to spend on it.

I'll still try to compare with those from ACE.

Anyway, is the Alonzo St. near Ongpin the same as the Binondo Area? I mean, should I go to Binondo to scout for better deals? or the place I went to is Binondo already? (Obviously I'm not from Manila)

[bbn]

Those are good prices. Alonzo is not 1km from the other tool places so I suggest you go. You are right though not to bring too much cash but for the wrong reasons ... I don't carry too much because I'd end up spending it all :)

[fourtheboys96]

Those are good prices. Alonzo is not 1km from the other tool places so I suggest you go. You are right though not to bring too much cash but for the wrong reasons ... I don't carry too much because I'd end up spending it all :)

My I know the street or shop where you get your tools?

Thanks!

[bbn]

Sorry if my post was misleading. Actually, I don't buy tools there in Binondo but only because I usually get my tools from an industrial supply near my house which is in Cainta. I do buy other stuff in Binondo so I have seen the shops. Dasmarinas has the big shops, and there are other smaller shops off it.

[fourtheboys96]

last saturday while accompanying someone in ongpin, i manage to sneak to t alonzo st and finally bought an arc welder.

i got the yamato brand 160A for Php3,600 plus a head type mask for Php125.

i was actually eyeing the yamato 175A but the salesman said those are actually rated 150A. dai chi brand are the only ones that carry a 175A arc welder.

so i got the more compact (but still heavy) 160A machine.

i'll still buying some stuff before i try it with my home-made charcoal grill.

fyi, compact TIG welder costs aroung 16K to 20K.

[bbn]

Congrats on the purchase. Welding opens up a whole range of other projects. 160A is a good choice for general purpose work. You can still use it for heavy work but watch out you don't overheat it.

I'm not expert but here are a few tips I can share:

1. Always use a welding mask. The other day our handyman welder was complaining his eyes hurt. Idiot was too lazy to get the welding mask and would just close his eyes. The welds were good enough but his eyes were not.

2. Store your welding electrodes in an air-tight container so they don't absorb moisture. I use one of those containers used for keeping spagetti noodles for my short electrodes and a plastic bag for the regular ones.

3. Electrodes come in many sizes and there are different types for different materials. I keep two sizes of electrodes for stainless steel, and the regular size for ordinary steel.

4. You can use electrodes meant for stainless steel on ordinary steel. It is a lot easier to make good welds.

5. Beware of flying flux chips while a weld is cooling. These are VERY HOT and will burn you even a minute after welding. Best to wear clear safety goggles or face shield. The welding mask goes in front of these.

6. If you must cool your workpiece after welding by water, do so after a minute or two to give time for the weld to cool (anneal) otherwise the welds will be brittle.

7. A cooling weld shrinks pulling the welded pieces together. It is not always possible but you can try compensating for the unavoidable movement.

[fourtheboys96]

Congrats on the purchase. Welding opens up a whole range of other projects. 160A is a good choice for general purpose work. You can still use it for heavy work but watch out you don't overheat it.

I'm not expert but here are a few tips I can share:


1. Always use a welding mask. The other day our handyman welder was complaining his eyes hurt. Idiot was too lazy to get the welding mask and would just close his eyes. The welds were good enough but his eyes were not.

good thing i already bought a welding mask.


2. Store your welding electrodes in an air-tight container so they don't absorb moisture. I use one of those containers used for keeping spagetti noodles for my short electrodes and a plastic bag for the regular ones.

i was actually thinking where can i get that kind of container. the haynes welding manual recommended that too. i'll see if a a tall "alkansiya" will fit the purpose


3. Electrodes come in many sizes and there are different types for different materials. I keep two sizes of electrodes for stainless steel, and the regular size for ordinary steel.

ok. i'll try to figure out what sizes i'll be using the most. i'll be welding mostly angle bars and stuff.


4. You can use electrodes meant for stainless steel on ordinary steel. It is a lot easier to make good welds.

hmmm. i must try this. but how much is the difference in cost between the two kinds of electrodes?


5. Beware of flying flux chips while a weld is cooling. These are VERY HOT and will burn you even a minute after welding. Best to wear clear safety goggles or face shield. The welding mask goes in front of these.

are bonnets (those used by bank robbers hehehw) good enough as a face shield?
my welding mask actually has a clear sight glass under the dark glass. so i think i don;t need a google

i am actually stacking on some protective gears before using the machine. i got hand gloves already. i got an overall factory uniform from my brother (short sleeves pa so will bring to the tailor to make it ling sleeves). maybe i'll use my old boots as protection for my feet.



6. If you must cool your workpiece after welding by water, do so after a minute or two to give time for the weld to cool (anneal) otherwise the welds will be brittle.

7. A cooling weld shrinks pulling the welded pieces together. It is not always possible but you can try compensating for the unavoidable movement.

ok. tnx for the tips!

[bbn]

Unfortunately, SS electrodes are much more expensive than electrodes for regular steel. I don't get to practice much so my skills have much to be desired so for difficult work I use SS electrodes.

When you can, buy by the box but make sure you keep them in away from moisture. Electrodes come out much cheaper when buying in bulk rather than buying per piece or per kilo.

No to the bonnet! It will catch fire. Just be careful. Me, after doing a weld, I just put the welding mask over the weld so the mask will catch any flux chips that pops off. My mask is no longer nice and shiny so no problem.

Good for you bro on the protective clothing. I used to wear gloves. I think I even used one of those leather aprons. I still put on the gloves from time to time when I do a lot of welding work but generally I just use a pair of pliers.

Good luck.

[fourtheboys96]

Hi!

I am planning to use my 160A Yamato welder for the first time this weekend.

However, I noticed that the plug cord was short and I plan to make an extension cord that can both be plugged directly to a house socket or tapped directly to the main box.

How do go about it? What kind and size of wire should I get?

BTW, up to what amp setting in the welding machine can the normal house socket bear before the breaker breaks hehehe?

[bbn]

Your welding machine, although rated at 160A, will draw a lot less from the socket since the welding machine steps down the voltage. 20A is about what a normal house hold socket will deliver. As long as your breakers are ok you should be fine.

As for the wire, it would be best to ask the store you buy the wire from what size. Maybe your welding machine has a nameplate that will tell you the current it will draw. Go to a hardware store, don't buy at the mall, wires is so much more expensive their. My welding machine is 300A so I put a 100A breaker mostly because this is what I had. The wire is royal cord but I forgot what size I used ... gauge 10 stranded maybe.

Good luck on the project bro. Have fun.

[fourtheboys96]

i tried my welding machine on some spare 3/16" (i think) angles bars last night.

first observation was that my welding rod was always sticking to the angle bars. any techniques i can do?

second, i think my welding rod is quite large for the angle bar. the weld beads are quite large compared to the metal being welded.

and, i can really use my welding machine just by plugging it into an ordinary house socket. YEY!

[bbn]

It will all come with practice bro. The sticking is part of what is called striking the arc which is to me still "black magic" and I don't totally understand it myself. Anyway this is what I do to avoid it.

1. Make sure the ground is well connected: no rust, good solid contact to workpiece and as close as possible to the weld point.

2. If the rod is new then scraping it along the workpiece or quickly striking it again the ground electrode will heat the tip up and make striking the arc easier. If the rod is used (even just a minute ago), I tap it against the floor or the workpiece to break any unused flux so the metal core is exposed.

3. To actually strike the arc, try a swing the electrode in a very small arc with your wrist. As soon as the arc is created reverse the swing without dropping the arc. The idea is to keep a constant distance between the electrode and the workpiece.

It does take a bit of practice but it really is not hard. I heard that trade schools give their students 12"x12" steel plates that they have to fill with perfect welds to graduate.

You might try asking the store where you buy your electrodes what size would be appropriate. I'm also pretty sure there would be something here on the internet. Another good source of information are the pros who will generally tell you all they know once they know you are aspiring to be one of them :).

[fourtheboys96]

i actually have some videos on basic welding downloaded from the net.

It is very useful but unfortunately the techniques are not really that easy as it seems.

But as you've said, I think it all come down to practice.

One thing I remember from that video is the striking-a-match action to start the arc.

With regards to the welding rods, I'll buy a smaller size to fit the job.

[Gumusut_Amige]

It will all come with practice bro. The sticking is part of what is called striking the arc which is to me still "black magic" and I don't totally understand it myself. Anyway this is what I do to avoid it.there's no magic actually but very plain and simple... just point the electrode into the workpiece while maintaining about 1/16"-3/32" contact clearance then scratch it creating an arc. but maintaining the arc is the challenge... how to do it? just maintain your composure after arc has been created, maintain your arc length as close as possible. rule of thumb here... size of electrode=arc length

1. Make sure the ground is well connected: no rust, good solid contact to workpiece and as close as possible to the weld point. yes to this... get a good quality ground clamp

2. If the rod is new then scraping it along the workpiece or quickly striking it again the ground electrode will heat the tip up and make striking the arc easier. If the rod is used (even just a minute ago), I tap it against the floor or the workpiece to break any unused flux so the metal core is exposed.this is right... but normally in heavy construction electrodes are baked to 300 deg then stored in holding ovens before usage
3. To actually strike the arc, try a swing the electrode in a very small arc with your wrist. As soon as the arc is created reverse the swing without dropping the arc. The idea is to keep a constant distance between the electrode and the workpiece. yes to this... maintain your arc length

It does take a bit of practice but it really is not hard. I heard that trade schools give their students 12"x12" steel plates that they have to fill with perfect welds to graduate.pwede rin sa TESDA at pati 8" pipe x sched 80 ang test piece

[Gumusut_Amige]

[QUOTE=fourtheboys96;2374]good thing i already bought a welding mask. dapat yung isinusuot (may head harness) para free yung isang kamay habang nagwewelding. a free hand is useful when time warrants it



i was actually thinking where can i get that kind of container. the haynes welding manual recommended that too. i'll see if a a tall "alkansiya" will fit the purpose an empty biscuit tin can will do the trick



ok. i'll try to figure out what sizes i'll be using the most. i'll be welding mostly angle bars and stuff. electrode with 3/32" dia would be suffice for general purpose work



hmmm. i must try this. but how much is the difference in cost between the two kinds of electrodes? normal mild steel electrodes are very cheap against its SS brother. E6013 is good enough



are bonnets (those used by bank robbers hehehw) good enough as a face shield?
my welding mask actually has a clear sight glass under the dark glass. so i think i don;t need a google

i am actually stacking on some protective gears before using the machine. i got hand gloves already. i got an overall factory uniform from my brother (short sleeves pa so will bring to the tailor to make it ling sleeves). maybe i'll use my old boots as protection for my feet.
if you're not into heavy welding the bonnet might be too hot to handle. btw, dark glass should be sandwich with two clear glass dahil usually clear glass lang ang pinapalitan pag masyado ng maraming dumikit na weld spatters. medyo pricey kasi ang dark glass... but beware on its shade number. for beginners, #12 shade is clear enough. shy away with 13 or 14 if you're only starting coz you might end up pulling your hood most of the time. end result... red eyes compounded with sand grain like feeling inside your eyes.

[JayL]

Here is a site with some Free Welding Videos.

http://www.tonywelding.com/

[fourtheboys96]

when welding 3/16" inch angle bars, should the weld penetrate to the other side?

[bbn]

How do you want them joined? Lap or butt?

[fourtheboys96]

based on my very quick google search, I'll be doing a combination of butt and corner joint.

i'll be cutting the ends of of 4 angle bars pieces into 45 degrees so that i can form a rectangle.

i actually explored with what i know as a butt joint but if i do this, the plywood that will be put on top of the rectangle will not be set onto two sides of the rectangle. there will a space between the plywood and the 2 parallel side of the angle bars.

im making a metal shelf so i guess i need the plywood completely set to the metal.

so back to my question, should the welds penetrate to the other side? should i weld in the underside or both sides considering the metal is thin?

[bbn]

No need to penetrate to the other side. Simple spot welds will do. Spot welds are much easier than making continuous welds. On the side opposite the weld you'll see discoloration of the metal.

[fourtheboys96]

No need to penetrate to the other side. Simple spot welds will do. Spot welds are much easier than making continuous welds. On the side opposite the weld you'll see discoloration of the metal.

well good. i am actually planning to just do some spot welds since i'm a newbie. tnx!

[fourtheboys96]

at the lowest possible amp setting (1 out 6) using the smallest welding rod i can find, i melted the angle bars.

what do you suggest i do? i'll try spot welding next time. spot welding needs some practice also.

i think i learned how to start the arc already. keeping the tip hot is a good suggestion.

another question is that how do i know the "rating" of my mask? i think the mask i'm using is a little bit light. i need a darker one.

[bbn]

Sorry bro I've no idea about the right mask rating.

You are probably not moving the electrode fast enough which is why your welds are penetrating to the other side. I would suggest you first practice spot welding before you try to do full welds. Most of the time only spot welds are needed, and in many cases you can use a lot of little spot welds to achieve the strength of a full weld. Watch out though for flux "pockets" (sorry I don't know the correct term). Usually, I only use full welds when I need to have it sealed (metal melting pot) or the application requires extra ordinary strength (trailer hitch). All my other projects are just spots.

By the way, congrats on enjoying yourself. Stay safe.

[fourtheboys96]

i got to try my welding skills on an actual home project yesterday.

starting the arc remains to be a problem to me. the rod kept sticking to the workpiece. however, once i am able to start it (with the rod tip kept glowing), the next weld is no problem.

the angle bars didn't melt this time (YEYYY!) and they were welded good enough although the weld beads are far from perfect.

might post some pics after i continue working next weekend.

[bbn]

Congratulations!

[emver333]

@fourtheboys96

how's you project? can you also post pics of your yamato welder, pls pm the name of the shop where you bought it, I also want one, thanks.

[fourtheboys96]

@fourtheboys96

how's you project? can you also post pics of your yamato welder, pls pm the name of the shop where you bought it, I also want one, thanks.


my project is already finished except for top shelf of the rack. the plywood i bought was not enough so i left the topmost part open although i still was able to store some big stuff ("kalat").

i'll try to take some pictures of my project and the welder and post it here.

i forgot the name of the shop but it is located in T. Alonzo St. in Ongpin

[edtf]

I just came from panda hardware sa araneta ave and if I remember correctly meron mga nagtatanong about yung auto mask - meron sila 3500 - hartman if I'm not mistaken - it is soo sensitive that if you look up to the light it would darken right away - pretty cool

[emver333]

the cheapest stick welder i saw in handyman is a yamato 145a @ 9000, i cant wait to see what your portable yamato can do, i'll be wating for your post 4theboys, thanks

[bbn]

The mall hardware stores presently always price higher than the "regular" stores. Go to Binondo, or do as I do, find a nearby industrial supplier. The only thing I like about mall hardware stores is that they are more likely to have things display unlike the regular stores. So I window shop in the mall stores, as well as on the Internet, then I buy from my favorite industrial supply.

Here's another tip: a regular store might give you a "hobbyist's" discount.

[fourtheboys96]

ok here it is.

my Yamato 160amp portable arc welder

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk172/fourtheboys96/arc_welder_01.jpg


i bought this at this shop
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk172/fourtheboys96/Receipt_01.jpg


it comes with this (a manual)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk172/fourtheboys96/arc_welder_02.jpg

i was not able to take step by step pictures of my project so i'll show the finished product.
if you back read this thread, i used thin angle bars for this shelf or rack project. i think 3/16" thick. so i often used the lowest setting.

i used the welder to weld the corners of the platform and also to weld additional support (anti-sway). i used nuts and bolts to assemble the parts (and later on disassemble it if necessary)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk172/fourtheboys96/part_01.jpg

[fourtheboys96]

as you can see the top most part has a temporary plywood platform but can still store some kalat.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk172/fourtheboys96/part_02.jpg

and what the project looks like
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk172/fourtheboys96/finished_project_01.jpg


my next project will be my ihawan or grill. i already have one but the parts are not welded.

sorry for the big images.

[edtf]

Best Achiever is also my suking tindahan :)

[emver333]

@4theboys

wow! nice project. i like what u did with the nuts n bolts, making the shelves adjustable. nice pics by the way, all of them are sharp and in focus,even the receipt (parang scanned). thanks for the info. keep it up.