View Full Version : rust converter
rogin24
11-28-2008, 09:05 AM
Ask ko lang po kung gagamit ako ng TURCO Rust Converter kailangan pa bang linisin ng soap and water after applying rust converter o diretso ng i-apply ang epoxy primer.
I wash it off before painting.
opzuk4x4
11-28-2008, 09:54 AM
Ask ko lang po kung gagamit ako ng TURCO Rust Converter kailangan pa bang linisin ng soap and water after applying rust converter o diretso ng i-apply ang epoxy primer.
You definitely have to wash off the crystalline deposits.
Boybakal
12-03-2008, 09:34 PM
definitely need to be wash but you have to use steel brush also so that all rust are gone..
Bobby
12-31-2008, 10:50 PM
Rust Converter is a synthetic polymeric formula that converts existing rust into a moisture free, black protective coating. Not only does it eliminate existing rust, but it seals out moisture to prevent the possibility of future rust formation and corrosion. Surfaces protected with this primer and an oil based paint resist the effects of weather, sunlight, rain and even salt spray without peeling or cracking as long as the oil based paint is maintained per manufacturer's recommendations. Rust Converter provides an excellent base primer for oil base and epoxy paints. This easy-to-use product is the first step in providing long-term protection of steel and iron surfaces.
Meaning, you dont have to steel brush the area coz the rust is already converted to another form that protects. But, I will still clean all the areas with a mild soap and water solution.
nicomambo
03-26-2009, 11:42 AM
In using Turco or other rust convereters as surface preparation before priming, do you guys dilute it?
stargirl
01-19-2010, 03:59 PM
Ask ko lang po kung pwede iapply ang rust converter sa stainless steel tube? I used a stainless steel tube and its accummulating moist that looks like rust. A supplier suggested to apply it with turco. Once applied how long po and effectivity ng turco? tnx
spyghost
01-20-2010, 11:02 AM
to clarify things here...
once the metal is dipped over the converter and turns black, you DON'T have to remove the black formation? tama ba?
fgvillegas
01-20-2010, 11:30 AM
to clarify things here...
once the metal is dipped over the converter and turns black, you DON'T have to remove the black formation? tama ba?
in my case, i don't. as i understand it, that is already part of the protective coating.
spyghost
01-24-2010, 09:07 PM
i also noticed,sometimes there forms some hard white deposits after turco or cord turbo has been applied to the surface. what's this? should this be removed?
manggyver
01-26-2010, 08:55 AM
In my field of work, we have been using phosphoric acid as regular as we use water. Let me share what I have learned and continuously adopting related to rust converters:
1. Most commercial products claiming to be rust converters have been marketed and reported to transform non-protective types of iron oxides and oxyhydroxides into more protective oxides. Most are proprietary formulations, but it is generally known that phosphoric and/or tannic acids are frequently used as their main constituents. Since their inception rust converter or rust transformer performance has always been under scrutiny. Research has been done on both phosphoric and tannic acid as a catalyst for rust transformation. Tannic acid is believed by some to cause the transformation of non-protective oxyhydroxides into magnetite.
2. Stainless steel is not stain-proof but it stains less because of chromium. Yes, TURCO can remove the stains if these are caused by corrosion.
3. Better to wipe-out (not necessarily flush-out with water) crystalline (magnetites) formation for smoother surface refurbishing
4. Depending on the rust formation, TURCO will become effective only after an hour. A second or third application is necessary if rust formation is dense. Immediately paint or cover the surface, if not, you will be surprised after a day, rust will form again. This is because of our humid environment.
5. When you apply rust converters to a RUSTY steel, crystalline formation will appear to show that proper chemical reaction took place. If you applied this to a metal and none appears, either the "rusting" is not being caused by FE203 (ferrous oxide/oxidation) or your rust converter just "stained" black your metal (hydroxide film). This, based on my experience, can be painted over.
spyghost
01-26-2010, 10:25 AM
where do you get phosphoric acid locally?
manggyver
01-26-2010, 11:10 AM
where do you get phosphoric acid locally?
Industrial (machine, external foodline maintainance, workshop) type - from Chemphil, also imports JT Baker Brand
For food application, acidulant of syrups & drinks - JT Baker
If you mean retail, check Purechem & Newchem
I converted from Turco to Bronco brand.
joaquim
01-14-2012, 11:29 PM
Pwede po ba ito gamitin sa sasakyan? Paparepair ko yung truck namin at medyo may kalawang na yung ibang parte, Paano ba gamitin ang turko? May nakausap ako pintor dati ang experience nya sa turko ay mas mabilis daw magkalawang pag ginamit nya ito, baka lang mali ang application nya.
thanks
wisely
01-18-2012, 05:29 PM
In my field of work, we have been using phosphoric acid as regular as we use water. Let me share what I have learned and continuously adopting related to rust converters:
1. Most commercial products claiming to be rust converters have been marketed and reported to transform non-protective types of iron oxides and oxyhydroxides into more protective oxides. Most are proprietary formulations, but it is generally known that phosphoric and/or tannic acids are frequently used as their main constituents. Since their inception rust converter or rust transformer performance has always been under scrutiny. Research has been done on both phosphoric and tannic acid as a catalyst for rust transformation. Tannic acid is believed by some to cause the transformation of non-protective oxyhydroxides into magnetite.
2. Stainless steel is not stain-proof but it stains less because of chromium. Yes, TURCO can remove the stains if these are caused by corrosion.
3. Better to wipe-out (not necessarily flush-out with water) crystalline (magnetites) formation for smoother surface refurbishing
4. Depending on the rust formation, TURCO will become effective only after an hour. A second or third application is necessary if rust formation is dense. Immediately paint or cover the surface, if not, you will be surprised after a day, rust will form again. This is because of our humid environment.
5. When you apply rust converters to a RUSTY steel, crystalline formation will appear to show that proper chemical reaction took place. If you applied this to a metal and none appears, either the "rusting" is not being caused by FE203 (ferrous oxide/oxidation) or your rust converter just "stained" black your metal (hydroxide film). This, based on my experience, can be painted over.
Sir, for #5, does this mean that when rust converter is applied and properly dried, no washing with water/soap would be necessary?
Thanks in advance!
I could not help myself not to react or say something with the replies of other members here regarding the after use or application of a rust converter on a rusted metal.
OK, what causes a piece of steel or metal to rust ? Di ba water !!!! specially if it gets directly in contact with water and even though it does not, there's air, air with moisture or vapor. Now what do we do to address these rusts, we scrape it, wire brush it or sand it then to be sure there will be no rust left, we apply a solution called rust converter then let it dry for 12 or 24 hours, after which we wipe the crystalline particles or dust away. :bruce_lee:
Now why in the heck would anyone wash the rust free metal with water ? That I could not really understand, :dunno: :nono: we all know naman that water is a corrosive element when it comes in contact with metal, maybe excuse the stainless steel or the alums, but instead of using water and soap why not just wire brush the crystalline particles or possibly wipe off with a rug drenched with kerosene then let dry before applying metal primer and final paint finish.
Washing the metal with soap and water invites rusts again in a very short time, then BANG ! ! disaster again, your painted metal starts to rust again under the paint eating the metal slowly.
Well I guess that's your style and so be it but for sure it doesn't and will not work for me, metal is metal and water is water, contra pelo yang dalawa. :starwars:
PEACE na lang po mga brader !!!
balarila
01-18-2012, 10:10 PM
Good point, Rosy. I have the same question re washing the crystalline stuff vs wire-brushing.
BTW, what causes rust is oxygen. Water does cause corrosion because of the O in H2O. Rusting is actually an oxidation process where elements or compounds combine with oxygen. Iron (ferrum or ferrous) combines with oxygen producing rust which is ferric oxide. Same thing when you burn something or when sliced apples turn brownish because the oxygen in the air reacts with it.
jonathanscruz68
01-18-2012, 10:35 PM
kung wala namang rust yung metal,
why use rust converter ?
if it is bare metal ( w/o rust ) or freshly sanded surface,
best is wipe it with kerosene,
let dry for a while,
then prime...
Washing away rust converter with water is not just some style or random choice. If you read the directions of some rust converters it says specifically to wash it with water. Now i don't know the exact reasons for why they recommend to wash with water but maybe its to stop the solution from further etching the metal (do correct me if im wrong) as some converters work in as fast as 15mins.
It really doesnt matter if you wash the metal with water or wire brush it, the fact remains that it will rust again if you don't apply something to protect it. As Balarila said, its the oxygen that causes rust.
If your going to paint the metal, especially with lacquers and such, is it really a good idea to wipe it with kerosene? Isn't that oily and will affect paint adhesion? I think its mineral spirits (paint thinner) that should be wiped on prior to painting. And its used as a cleaner/degreaser rather than a rust preventive.
I use lacquer thinner and cloth wipe the metal before primer painting.
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