DIY non-permanent walls, such as pressurized walls

[guad]

Commercially available partitions can be expensive. Has anyone designed their own system for non-permanent walls, or have ideas for such a system?

Something like so-called 'pressurized' walls that are temporary but look permanent --
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pressurized_wall
http://www.pressurizedwallcompanies.com/

Question is, what is the mechanism here. I assume it is not fluid pressure but uses some kind of screw mechanism, like a reverse press?

Also, how to seal the joint with the existing floor, ceiling, and walls, both for soundproofing and stability. Some kind of foam, that is then hidden by molding?

If you lean against the wall or bump into it, you don't want it fall over!

[guad]

Finally got around to making some prototypes. Comments or suggestions for improvement or alternative design appreciated.

Non-permanent means no nails/screws/bolts/glue or any kind of mechanical fastener to existing walls, ceiling, or floor. The wall/partition is held in place only by pressure.

The vertical studs that go all the way to ceiling have tenons at their top end that fit into mortises in the ceiling plate, so that the ceiling plate can slide up and down. Turning the nuts on the threaded rods pushes the ceiling plate upwards against the ceiling, locking the structure in place.

In this picture, not all the threaded rods have been installed yet. There are supposed to be two rods per standard (4 ft wide) module.

http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/9827/img3207o.jpg

Below is a standard first module, as opposed to a standard non-first module. The difference is in whether the 4 feet between full vertical studs is outer-edge-to-center, or center-to-center.

http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/6084/img3200.jpg

[guad]

Threaded rod and sliding joint at ceiling plate. The design is modular with 4 ft wide modules, except for the last one which is a custom width depending on existing walls or on whereever you want the partition to end. However, the base and ceiling plates are as continuous as possible, using long (e.g., 12 ft) pieces.

http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/2831/img3203s.jpg

Any breaks in the ceiling plate are at module boundaries (full vertical studs). Here the ceiling plate on the left has been removed:

http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/5646/img3208d.jpg

[guad]

Base plate:

http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/4049/img3209r.jpg

Except for the sliding joints at the ceiling plate, all 90 degree joints are rabbeted (3 mm deep) and screwed. The rabbets make it easy to align the pieces during assembly. The screws make it possible to disassemble the structure, e.g., for transport or to change the design or to reuse the wood in future. No nails or glue are used anywhere.

In above and below pictures, there is a splice at the end of a 12 ft base plate. I don't know what the name of this kind of joint is, if any. Maybe keyed lap or lipped lap.

http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/7883/img3197b.jpg

[willicooper1]

I have seen your pictures, you should use wooden panes and for sound proof you can use fine quality of foams.For this you can search online or consult with a home renovator who helped me at the time of my home's renovation.

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Basement Finishing Contractor (http://www.handyamerican.com/categories-basement-remodeling-finishing.asp)