My Router Table... 52K warning

[timber715]

how about posting your router table build in another thread? i hope you documented it ...
as you wish JayL, here is the picture log of RT.
I started the RT building the table top using two sheets of 3/4" MDF glues and screwed together, then edge banded with 1" hardwood and stained with walnut stain. corners are finger jointed for durability and strength...
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_2576.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_2578.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_2585.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0079.jpg

[timber715]

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0080.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0077.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0083.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0088.jpg

[timber715]

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0091.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0094.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0096.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0093.jpg

[timber715]

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0076.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0100.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0102.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0162.jpg

[timber715]

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0160.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0171.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0166.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0174.jpg

[timber715]

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0215.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0216.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0179.jpg
[img][http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0180.jpg/img]

[timber715]

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0234.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0233.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/4.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/rtfront.jpg

[timber715]

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0280.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0577.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0576-1.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0574.jpg

[timber715]

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1185.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1186.jpg

[bbn]

As usual very very nice. Yup I'm definitely envious.

Can't really tell but instead of angle bars to support the fence you might want to use wood instead.

[timber715]

Can't really tell but instead of angle bars to support the fence you might want to use wood instead.
actually, I built it with wooden supports, but decided to go with the thick aluminum angle bars. the wood was hindering my hands when I needed to adjust the opening and when I needed the RT for jointing needs.

[JayL]

Great project . You really got good ROI on those Richa clamps ....

Thanks Timb for sharing these with us.

[JayL]

@Timber,

Bro if it would not be too much to ask can you please give us an idea of how much you spent on your router build project.

TIA

[timber715]

the table cost roughly 3.5k, the router insert plate 4.5k, the router 11k and other hardwares approx 2k, all in all around 21k...

[JayL]

Bro, Thanks for the cost info. The RT excluding that Router is around 10K . What is the size of the table top?

tks

[B2Bomber]

wow...I'm speechless... makes me wanna go back and make my self a 2nd RT... anyway, mind if I ask where you purchased the router plate? and would you know if it would be compatible with a maktec? TIA.

[timber715]

wow...I'm speechless... makes me wanna go back and make my self a 2nd RT... anyway, mind if I ask where you purchased the router plate? and would you know if it would be compatible with a maktec? TIA.
yup, my router insert plate fits a Maktec, unfortunately it would also cost more than the router itself. The router insert plate is "Pinnacle" brand made by Woodpeckers USA. my wife bought it for me when she was there.

[B2Bomber]

thanks for the info. will check them out when I get back on shore... been dying to find one that'd work with a maktec...I'm just using a "make-shift" plate at the moment y'see.

[timber715]

I myself started with a home made router plate that I made out of 1/4" thick aluminum plate witha a 1 1/2" hole in the middle that I had a machine shop cut for me. my problem back the was the plat is not truly level. but it worked great for what it's worth. fabricating a plate isn't cheap. if you can find one without or with little shipping cost, it would actually be cheaper to buy one. there are lots online and with very good performance.
cheers

[bbn]

It would not be hard to put leveling screws like the GMC router table I have does. If anyone is interested I'll try to take pictures and post them. The problem with homemade table saws is that the tables' wood can contract or expand or be compressed by the weight of the router and plate. So you might want to line the edge with something, epoxy would do.

I found this fantastic router table plan. It even has a lift mechanism so you don't have to access the router to adjust the bit height which is really a pain.

Hmm the file is too big, I'll try to find where I got it from and post the link later.

[timber715]

Incc,
is that design from Niki? I ususally adjust my router from below, though the Triton is equipped with an above the table adjustment. I never had any problems nor is it difficult. In most plunge routers, when installed on the table it is advised that the plunge spring be removed for easier adjustments. Ah, what makes mine easy to adjust is the rack and pinion on the handle and fine adjustments that Triton has. Yes, when I had a Maktec and the spring removed it was a bit difficult to adjust. As for the sag or expansion of the table, I used two pieces of 3/4" MDF glued and screwed. it never expands or contract and I haven't had any sag.

[timber715]

I recently made a simple box joint jig that would work even it you don't have a miter slot. I made this bec. the Leigh super 18" has a limited thickness capacity.
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1357.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1359.jpg
also has fine adjustments for tightness to eliminate wobble.
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1358.jpg
test cut to check fit.
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1356.jpg

[timber715]

initially made to cut the edge band for my Drill Press table...
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1366.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1361.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1367.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1380.jpg

[timber715]

but it would work on carcass that exceeds 24". here is a small project out of scrap materials.
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1417.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1421.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1422.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1423.jpg

[timber715]

tuning the cut is vital, but once it is set, you can lock it in. and it will cut to the tightness or looseness of fit to your liking... I have mine on a tight fit.
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1424.jpg
BTW, I found that using an end mill would work very well in the absence of an upcut spiral bit. here are the latest bit that I bought. 1/2" and 8mm two flute end mills.
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1408.jpg

[bbn]

That's a nice box joint setup. I myself am debating whether to use the table saw or the router table to make box joints. I've a dado blade set but I'm not sure if I want to bother setting it. I don't make fancy joints very often so I'm in no hurry.

I like your use of those milling bits. Please check if they rated for a router's speed? I think they are but it wouldn't hurt to make sure.

MDF is surely nice and stable. Sag would be an issue only if one put those leveling bolts which would essentially concentrate the load to a few points. Putting washers to serve as footing would also work.

Yeah, remove the spring if you are using a plunge router, I did.

Unfortunately, there is no URL in PDF file of the router table plan. The author did not even put his name. Here are few pictures from the file. I can e-mail the file to anyone who wants it.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/drt01.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/drt02.jpg

[timber715]

I'm interested to know what table saw you have?

[j2sip]

Sir where can i get aluminum miter guide tracks similar to yours? TIA

[timber715]

Sir where can i get aluminum miter guide tracks similar to yours? TIA
local aluminum stores. got mine in aluminum power in T. Alonso, Binondo.

[j2sip]

Thanks sir. Would certainly get one for the router table i'm planning to build.

[timber715]

do you have a router insert plate?

[j2sip]

No sir. But i'm planning to use 3/8" thick acrylic sheet. Or aluminum if I can find one. Where did you buy your triton router sir?

[timber715]

No sir. But i'm planning to use 3/8" thick acrylic sheet. Or aluminum if I can find one. Where did you buy your triton router sir?
I got that from Florida when my wife went there to visit her sister. I made a plate out of aluminum, bought in Binondo area and it was a good first router plate.
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1698-1.jpg
I even made a homemade dovetails jig that worked well...
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1698-1.jpg

[j2sip]

The triton sure is a nice looking router! I got an AEG one, it suffices for my woodworking interests (guitar building, mostly. I have YET to make ONE furniture!) The router table will be my first woodworking project outside of luthiery.
I made a plate out of aluminum, bought in Binondo area and it was a good first router plate.
Will try aluminum, if that's the case. MAybe it's even cheaper. I understand you can get a thinner plate that's just as strong as a thicker plate of acrylic. Are aluminum plates flat? Or do they still need machining?

[timber715]

The triton sure is a nice looking router! I got an AEG one, it suffices for my woodworking interests (guitar building, mostly. I have YET to make ONE furniture!) The router table will be my first woodworking project outside of luthiery.

Will try aluminum, if that's the case. MAybe it's even cheaper. I understand you can get a thinner plate that's just as strong as a thicker plate of acrylic. Are aluminum plates flat? Or do they still need machining?

basically they are flat, but it is always best to have it checked and corrected if nec. making that plate set me back a little over 2k. so if you can get something like a phenolic plate online, it should be better. how many screws does your AEG router have on its base plate?

[j2sip]

how many screws does your AEG router have on its base plate?
Only 2, i guess. 2k for a plate is prohibitive!! :) What about acrylic sheets? 3/8" should be stiff enough for a 4kg router.Will the 3/8" added to the router base affect the "reach" of bits?
Browsed through your old posts and saw your pipe clamps. where did you score those sir?

[j2sip]

sir timber,

I got meself a square foot of 3/8" acrylic. I just hope it will hold my 4kg router. What do you think of the maktek router you had before the triton?

[timber715]

sir timber,

I got meself a square foot of 3/8" acrylic. I just hope it will hold my 4kg router. What do you think of the maktek router you had before the triton?
I had it mounted on a homemade aluminum plate (Maktec) and from experience, using acrylic on it will make the plate sag. Maktec tends to generate heat on long runs and I believe the material you chose will not hold flat very long.

[idmpol]

Wow...very nice...am a newbie here in this forum and i really appreciate on people sharing their thoughts and expertice in their field...Thanks

[j2sip]

I had it mounted on a homemade aluminum plate (Maktec) and from experience, using acrylic on it will make the plate sag. Maktec tends to generate heat on long runs and I believe the material you chose will not hold flat very long.

Goodness. and i thought it could hold a ton! I hope it won't before i could buy aluminum plate for it.

[quest]

as you wish JayL, here is the picture log of RT.
I started the RT building the table top using two sheets of 3/4" MDF glues and screwed together, then edge banded with 1" hardwood and stained with walnut stain. corners are finger jointed for durability and strength...
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_2576.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_2578.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_2585.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_0079.jpg

good day sir,

just wanna ask what tool is that you use to fasten the mdf together.. the big metal clamp thing... where can it be purchased?..

thanks

mark

[timber715]

Mark,
the MDF is fastened using glue and screws, the clamps hold only the edge-bands while it is being glued. The clamps ate 32" long ones and is branded as "Richa, made in Germany" and can be found in the Binondo area.

[rolly]

timber,

what type of board did you use for this? marine ply or yung normal lang?

[timber715]

timber,

what type of board did you use for this? marine ply or yung normal lang?
marine iirc. but it doesn't matter whether it is marine or not...

[rolly]

initially made to cut the edge band for my Drill Press table...
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1366.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1361.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1367.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1380.jpg

timber,

stupid question, is there a special bit for these cuts, so that the end of the cuts are square and not round? thanks

[timber715]

timber,

stupid question, is there a special bit for these cuts, so that the end of the cuts are square and not round? thanks
the wood was cut standing on the table with a jig, hence the corners are square.