LNCC63's workshop

[bbn]

I'm glad to see the number of DIYers here is growing. Yesterday it popped into my head that the reason why tools are relatively inexpensive in the U.S. is because the demand high. Sure the market is large, and they do earn more there, but we can't discount the reason that the number of DIYers/hobbyists is also a factor.

Here is are some pics of my workshop.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/sIMGA5009.jpg
The columns and beams are "space frames" made from rebars ... these were my first big exercise in welding. The wall are just steel pallets (paleta), P200 each. I've kind of outgrown it, as I can no longer bring down the swingout walls that serve as the front roof. It is a bit messy as I was busy over the weekend.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/sIMGA5012.jpg
This is my big router table. I've also bench top one. The truth be told though, I miss my old homemade one.

You might have notice in the first picture those things hanging from the front roof beam. Those are some of my jigs and fences. Here is a close up.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/sIMGA5014.jpg

Here is my ugly workbench.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/sIMGA5006.jpg
Now you guys know why I'm truly envious of timber715's workbench. Never did quite finish it but its done its part over the years.

... to be continued

[bbn]

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/sIMGA5008.jpg
Here is my main tool shelf can be see here in the back. It was my first back to DIY projects. Build entirely from scrap crate wood, as was the framing of my workbench. You can also see the welding machine and "ancient" drill press. The X-Y vice was my Christmas gift this year.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/sIMGA5017.jpg
This is the self on the other side where I keep my horde of screw, blots, etc., etc. See I told you guys I've kind of outgrown it. What's the thing in the middle?

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/sIMGA5015.jpg
Aside from the stock of plywood for the boat I'm building, there's a U-beam for when I have to route long things like the mast of a boat, an 8' long taper sled, and a bunch of other tools I keep under it. Oh yeah that's the jointer which is sitting on top of a wood lathe (that doesn't work too well I'm afraid).

Here's a tip for all those DIYers, notice the small bandsaw on my workbench? It was a return because the blade guide is faulty. I bought it for P500 from HRM Auction. I'm repairing it now. Aside from the fun of getting the tool to work, I'll have a another tool for a fraction of the cost.

[edtf]

I like your workshop!!!! Where can I get those steel pallets?

[guad]

Is wind/rain a problem, if it is open all the time? How about termites or bukbok, with all that sawdust and shavings that falls on the ground?

[bbn]

Thanks edtf ... hopefully I can reclaim some of the pallets my wife used for a roof around our townhouse and expand it eventually.

I still see these steel pallets from time to time but mostly I see the plastic ones now. Last time I asked a few months ago, they sell for P280 a piece I think. This was at those crate wood vendors in the Taytay area. Other crate wood vendors will most likely have them.

Yup wind and rain are defintely problems. Notice all those cloths covering stuff. The router has a plastic cover. However even with these, wind swept rain does get in. I try to keep things covered with oil but that this also evaporates from the heat. Dust is also a problem.

Termites attached the wood panel in front of my workbench. It is just scrap particle board so that's ok. Good thing the shop structure is all concrete and steel.

[timber715]

very nice shop with all the freedom, lol. it is always great to have a place to work, let alone a wide open space with free lighting and cooling. wish I had some of those open spaces, but you can't have it all I guess... enjoy the habby and craft. I know I do. Cheers.

[bbn]

Thanks timer715. Yes, I've quite a lot of space - 300 sqm. if you count my wife's new carport that I recently commandeered for the boat I started building :). The boat will take a 2-3 years to build but I'm sure to get kicked out of that space once the boat is finished so I'd only count 200 sqm. Someday, maybe when I find the surplus materials, I'll expand my shop.

Its my birthday so I'll do some day dreaming.

First thing I need to do is replace the swing-out doors with a permanent roof that is higher and longer. This will still be open air but with roll down tarp walls to keep the rain out. Why not closed? It is too hot. I was thinking I could put removable steel mesh panels but I've two "war dogs" standing guard for now so that's ok. Under this new roof I'd like to put the heavy tools that I currently have to heave in and out of storage. Imagine every every time I want to use the thickness planer or the jointer I have to pick them up and put them on the table saw. Also, I hope there is space to put the workbench so I can walk around it.

Next with the three pallets from the swing-out doors, and two other pallets that have not really been used yet, I want to expand the walled part of the shop to the right. I'll build my small foundry there (one of my projects on-hold). The front roof would also be expanded where I'd put the metal working stuff ... then I'd be able to buy a lathe and mill (also on my wish list).

Well enough daydreaming for now.

[guad]

A jointer as well as a thickness planer! Does this mean that you can make engineered bamboo? Those are the key tools needed to make rectangular bamboo, no? Or will bamboo dull the blades quickly?

Are those two tools available in Binondo stores, and at reasonable cost?

[bbn]

I hope you continue your interest in engineered bamboo. I had an interest in it before but like many other things it "went south".

Industrial jointers and planers can be bought I'm sure at Binondo or even the 2nd equipment vendors in Caloocan. Hobbyist jointers like my mine are another matter though as far as I know. I had mine shipped all the way from the U.S. and resigned to suffer that it is 110v. There are now "hobby" lathes being sold in Binondo so things are changing.

The thickness planer you can find easily but they are still a bit expensive. You could try you luck at the HRM and SOS stores.

[timber715]

happy birhtday incc63!!!

[bbn]

Thanks bro.

This evening I looked in on that bandsaw I'm trying to get work. The problem is with with the blade guides. Last Sunday I found one of the adjusting bolt holes had worn threads so I repaired that with epoxy. Basically, I cleaned the hole and bolt with laquer thinner, washed then clean with soap and water, dried them, coated the bold with mold release wax (Polymer Products), then put the bolt in the hole that was filled with epoxy. I was worried that the bolt would not come out but pleasantly it all worked out. Unfortunately, I discovered this was not the only bolt hole with loose thread ... lousy castings I've concluded. One hole I repaired again with epoxy but then I found another one in the upper blade guide ... grrr. The upper blade guide as an additional problem that can't be solved so simply so now I'm thinking to just make a new upper blade guide.

[JayL]

I always wondered how a boat builder's shop would look like. Now I have an idea.

Thanks for posting Incc63 and Happy Birthday!!!

[bbn]

Glad you like it bro but just so no one gets the wrong impression you don't really need my kind of setup to build a boat. Heck some of my fellow boatbuilders did their boats with just a few hand tools, and an electric drill. Really. Please don't think you need something like my workshop to build a boat.

My shop is the way it is because I'm like my aunt once very long ago said: "a jack of all trades, master of nothing". Well she got the first part right, or at least I won't mind be one, and for all but one trade her second phrase is also essentially true. I guess I just like building stuff and learning whatever trades are necessary.

I also enjoy getting others hooked on any of the craziness I'm into. So I've a standing offer to host at my workshop anyone that wants to build a boat, especially if it is the same as one of mine.

[timber715]

[QUOTE=lncc63;2705]My shop is the way it is because I'm like my aunt once very long ago said: "a jack of all trades, master of nothing". /QUOTE]

in a way, I keep re-fitting my shop and upgrading my tools because my Grandfather was a Jack of all trades and a master of all of them. He was fixing clocks, making wood crafts and using almost all materials I can think of for his time and came out with great results. I acquired all of his tools in his departure, too bad my uncle sold a lot before I could though. So I take my hobby as serious as I can most of the time and try to be close to his workmanship. I have little patience but I'm working on it... Cheers

[JayL]

@INCC63

I always forget to ask . What is the size of your GMC Router Table top in inches?

Soon I will have a Bosch Portable Router Table and the tabletop is aluminum much like yours.

This one ...

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/b1181rvu.html

tks

[bbn]

Hi Jay. The one in the pictures has an 18" x 27" top. I actually have a smaller one that has a 14" x 24" cast aluminum top, and looks surprisingly similar to the Bosch. The Bosch is much nicer.

[JayL]

Thanks Incc63.

I suspected that your GMC had the same table size as the Bosch RA 1181 Portable RT. Now at least I have an idea of how the 1181's size looks like. I'll post some pics when I receive this Bosch RT.

How do you find the 18" x 27" table top ? Do you find yourself wanting more table space?

[bbn]

Its ok for most stuff but I also do a lot of really long things.

[bbn]

This is my little lathe another member was asking about.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/20100307005.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/20100307009.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/20100307008.jpg

I got it off eBay in the US for just a little over $100. Usually these things sell on eBay for upwards of $200 but this one was missing a gib. Since I have some experience in machine tools, I used to retrofit old CNCs with modern control electronics, I knew it would not be hard to replace the missing gib. Surprisingly, it turned out that the parts for this lathe are still available. The only drawback is that it is 110v, no big deal really.

[bbn]

Along with the lathe came a nice set of collets and other accessories.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/20100307006.jpg

Too new to this to know how to grind my own tool bits. I instead bought a set of carbide tool bits.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/20100307007.jpg

[timber715]

that is a great buy, as they say... you suck... heheheh tool gloat. are those widia carbide? nice looking lathe. wish I have the space for one :(.

[bbn]

Thanks Timber ... just returning the favor :) though I will claim I've a;lot to make up :). I do have a few small surprises still.

Widia ... nah these are just MIC carbides. Would you know if Widia are available in Binondo? Last year, I saw some bits for 3/8" tool holders and bits but I need 1/4". Don't know if they're Wida though. This is the problem with these small lathes - the accessories are hard to find locally.

[JayL]

Was the mini lathe heavy? How much did it cost to ship?

That's a really nice tool. How was the learning curve?

Thanks for posting.

[bbn]

Not heavy at all Jay .... my guess is it is about 3kg at most. IIRC balikbayan boxes don't have a fixed weight limit as long as they go by sea freight. In fact one of my outboard motors, 45hp, very very heavy, was shipped in two balikbayan boxes but only because it wouldn't fit in one.

Oh I'm no expert, a lot more to learn for sure. Admittedly, I'm a get-a-task-done kind of guy so I seldom try to learn and master things. Awhile ago I mentioned I used to work with machine tools, well its correct that I "made" them but I never used them ... the 30 or so machinists did, I just watched with envy.

Have I shown you guys my melting furnace? Not much to show now but getting back into that is still on my TODO list.

[JayL]

I've never tried purchasing from Ebay but would like to try too.

Please show the furnace.

Thanks again.

[bbn]

Found these when I went to buy 3" wood screws in a local hardware I don't normally buy from. All four of them plus the screws cost just a little over P500.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_1262.jpg

Finally found hooks I could stomach buying:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_1261.jpg
Six of for P66 in the those American Home stops. I also buy disposable scissors there which are great for cutting fiberglass and not really caring if you get epoxy on them.

Melting furnaces:

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMGA1900.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMGA1850.jpg

[bbn]

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMGA1853.jpg

What was suppose to be the 3rd one:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMGA1859a.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMGA1902.jpg

The burner:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMGA1840.jpg

Next time I'll used a forced air burner.

[bbn]

Wishful thinking uli:

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/workshop_v2.jpg

[JayL]

How do you intend to cover it when its raining or maybe against typhoons?

Pardon my inexperience but what do you actually use the furnace for?

[bbn]

Don't really know how but I've always just covered up with oil and tarps ... maybe roll down tarp walls, or removable walls like storefronts have. If I hit the lotto then roll-up doors ... but I don't bet the lotto so there's pretty much no chance of that happening :).

The furnace is for casting aluminum parts but my experience is nearly just as limited as yours bro. One of the things on my project list is making small machine tools, and boat parts. A friend just lent me a venturi vacuum pump so I'll be playing with vacuum bagging for making composite parts for now. Less energy intensive but probably more expensive in the long run. There are advantages though with composites as compared to metal castings especially in metal unfriendly environments such as saltwater.

So many interesting things to do, so little time.

[bbn]

Have I told you guys what I've been up to lately? This is what is presently occupying my weekends:

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/W17/Model_081.jpg

It is a 17-foot trimaran ... a zoom zoom sailboat. Anyone interested can see more here: http://www.pinoyboats.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1466. Thirteen sheets of plywood, maybe 8 brd-ft of wood, 6 gallons of epoxy and less than 10 kg of fiberglass. The mast is going to be really interesting at 7.9 m made from plywood, epoxy, fiberglass and carbon fiber.

[tscotom]

Hi LNCC,

A friend of mine used to make wooden and fiberglass powerboats and he always had a hard time sourcing proper 1 inch marine plywood.

Once, since labour was cheap here, he got a contract to build (for a U.K. boat co.) a powerboat with the materials coming from
the U.K, specs and all. I saw the 1 inch marine plywood boards, and the 'sandwich' contained 8+ layers and really 1 inch !! He told me that the closest you could get real/proper marine plywood locally is from some company in Mindanao and even theirs was not that good, I guess the 'sandwich' (layers) was less.

Do you have the same problems now ??

Re: your mast, w/carbon fibre, are you making this or does it come ready made?

Cheers, :)

[JayL]

Finally found hooks I could stomach buying:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_1261.jpg
Six of for P66 in the those American Home stops. I also buy disposable scissors there which are great for cutting fiberglass and not really caring if you get epoxy on them.



I think I need to get myself one of these face protection mask. I'm doing a lot of grinding with only eyeglasses as shield. :( I have goggles but these are awkward to wear with reading glasses.

Do you guys know where I can get one that won't break the bank.

Thanks

[bbn]

@Jay

Yeah you should wear a face shield if you are doing a lot of welding and grinding. To be honest though I don't use mine unless I'll be welding all day. You are right though that a face shield is the only way to go if you wear glasses like me.

Mine was not expensive, IIRC, it was P300 or so, definitely less than P500. The advantage of the cheap ones is that the replacement shield is not expensive. Take not though that these will probably not protect you against a flying bolt.

@tscotom

I think those design were old school or VERY big boats. Nowadays we use the plywood as core material of a composite structure with fiberglass as the outer layers which take all the loads. Plywood though has recently improved tremendously. We now have 5 mm plywood with 5 layers, no voids,waterproof and boil proof - in other words real boat building plywood. It is rather harder to get because of its limited distribution, and it is about 30% more costly but all of these are hands down all worth it.

I will be making the mast myself. We are however still working with the designer based on what materials are available locally since our aim is for other local builders not to have to import. Masts are presently a big problem for us. There are no facilities here to manufacture aluminum sections longer than 21 feet, and importing is just too expensive.


Got myself a present:

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/CIRCULARFORPOSTING.jpg

I've always wanted one of these :)

[beebeenator]

that sure looks nice! i am also saving up for a cordless circular saw.

how is the weight on that? if compared to a corded one?

[bbn]

Oh it is a lot lighter Bee. I do have a 7" corded saw but its 110v so I usually use my 10" which is heavier. Heavy is sometimes good though because the weight helps to steady things. I think though with this saw I'll be able to use my Jap saws less and prolong their life.

[bbn]

Finally remembered to take a picture of my thicknesser:

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_1930_640x480.jpg

These are its parts donors in waiting :):

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_1931_640x480.jpg

New additions:

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_1928_640x480.jpg

A vacuum pump and a clamp meter. Don't really know what I'll use the clamp meter for but it was too good a deal to pass on.

By the way, the portable circular saw works great ... at least for the 1x2x3 pieces I needed quick and dirty.

[JayL]

Looks like it went to a lot of battles already and came back still kicking. With the kind of stuff you build then kudos for that Ryobi thicknesser.

[bbn]

"Abused" is more appropriate actually.

I was planing a 250 mm wide piece just before I took the picture to a particular thickness. Checking both edges, the caliber showed a 0.1 mm difference. Yeah it needs calibration but that really the least of its worries. Honestly, I could probably live with a difference of 0.25 mm.

[tscotom]

LNCC,

re: your clampmeter, you can probably use that if you fix an aircon unit or something like that.

Or, if you become a demo presenter of those electricity saving gadgets on some homeshopping network, that yellow and red beauty will do just fine :)

Cheers !

[bbn]

Or, if you become a demo presenter of those electricity saving gadgets on some homeshopping network, that yellow and red beauty will do just fine :)

Hahaha! that would be the day. The only reason I bought the meter was the guy really wanted to dispose of it. I've probably used a clamp meter only once or twice outside of school. The probes though fit my other Flukes nicely :).

The problem with the vacuum pump is that is Made in the U.S. so I had to go looking for my set of standard (imperial) allen keys. Good thing my son is always using my set of wrenches so he was able to tell me where the allen keys where. I only keep the metric set handy and I seldom use closed or open wrenches.

In the process of hunting for the allen keys, I foud several tools I did not know I had having completely forgot about them. Among the "long lost" were set of Irwin adjustable auger bits ... yes there was a time I did not own an electric drill ...only a bit brace. I also found two die handles, I nearly bought a third just a few months ago. Rediscovered the set of SDS bits, and remembered that I lent a buddy one of my bench grinders. So now I feel as if I'd just come home with a new load of tools that need a proejct to be used on. I'm sure some of you know the feeling well.

[bbn]

My new Record vise mounted. Really happy with it. Thanks guys for posting it and for Bee for swapping me for it.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_1968_640x480.jpg

Here is my other woodworking vise that I still have not mounted and will wait till I get around to making a new workbench.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_1969_640x480.jpg

My vacuum clamping setup still under development:
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_1947_640x480.jpg

If anyone is interested, there are more details on the PHBYC forum (http://www.pinoyboats.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1504)

[JayL]

I have one of the Irwin too and am thinking of fabricating several interchangeable jaws material configuration for it.

1. Aluminum
2. Hardwood
3. Rubber
4. Brass if I find some
5. ?

[timber715]

congrats Loius on the Record, very nice and very durable... nice woodworking vise as well... make your wb when you find a gap in your schedules...

[JayL]

@Jay

Yeah you should wear a face shield if you are doing a lot of welding and grinding. To be honest though I don't use mine unless I'll be welding all day. You are right though that a face shield is the only way to go if you wear glasses like me.

Mine was not expensive, IIRC, it was P300 or so, definitely less than P500. The advantage of the cheap ones is that the replacement shield is not expensive. Take not though that these will probably not protect you against a flying bolt.



You got me thinking about the flying bolt part plus the fact that the other day a brand new wire brush made by Eagle went flying out of its riveted holder ( as soon as it touched metal ) while installed in an air tool. Luckily nobody got hurt.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0193.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0194.jpg

The remaining unused wire brushes are now long gone in the garbage can.

I'm now looking for a face shield similar to this one. It's a bit bulky so buying it abroad and finding someone to hand carry it might not be a viable option for me now.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VXXUWK/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&m=A26UI25H05IHIA

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/419LCImL2EL_SL500_AA300_.jpg

[timber715]

Jay, lilinaw mata mo dyan sa faceshield na yan... hehehehe bionic eh

[JayL]

hahahahaha :)

[bbn]

Quick! Go the trash can and get those brushes you threw out ... not for using with a grinder but with a drill press or your electric drill. Usually I clean up the stainless steel boat hardware I make with a wire brush in the drill press because it is easier to hold the workpiece in my hands, and the lower speed of the drill press is safer. If the workpiece is too small to be safe, I clamp it in a vise grip.

[JayL]

The grinder was not running full speed at only 70 psi regulated air pressure ( max I have is 115 psi ). Also I've had success using the non Eagle brands before. None the less I suspect that it's the grinder's torque and my feed pressure that added to the break plus my desire to quickly finish the run.

They're gone now :( but you're right I could have used the brushes on this setup ( 800 rpm ) but my disappointment got the better part of me. It would have been slower but safer.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0196.jpg

I now prefer to use threaded shafts ( vs riveted ) if I find these on the cup brushes too.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0197.jpg

The Eagle cup brush was rated at 4500 rpm but am sure now that this was exceeded. Probably at 40-50 PSI on the air tool then it would have been ok since it is also a variable speed model.

This is the tool.

http://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Pneumatic-4-Inch-Degree-Grinder/dp/B0002SRORM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1272214722&sr=8-5

Yes this is an operator error since I pushed the brush over it's limit. The more reason now to get protection since mistakes can be made.

Thank you so much for pointing it out.

[bbn]

Thanks for sharing about air driven grinding tools. I saw one at MyTools and they aren't too expensive it seems. Since then I've been meaning to get one but haven't really needed it. I also like that flexible shaft grinding attachment for the drill. How much did that cost?

I think the best setup for finishing the the stuff I do would be a bench grinding and buffing station. This what I'd really like but I don't have the space. What I have in mind is a fixed setup that I can also use to put wide radius sanders, up to 1m diameters, for putting sexy curves in the things like boat paddles. I've been saving my old homemade table saw motor and hardware to do this.

With all the wood cutting I've been doing lately, I've finally decided to spend sometime reconditioning this 10" table saw I bought several years ago. My ancient TS is just too hard to setup and adjust.

This GMC table saw I've been keeping has been sitting under a tarp in my yard and as you'll see from the pictures it has not kept as well as it could have ... oh well.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_0001.jpg

The motor still works and the adjustment mechanism is still good - just needs to serious TLC.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_0004.jpg

The table though needs refinishing as rats too a liking to peeing on it which corroded the aluminum top. With a good amount of elbow grease to scrape and sand it flat again I think it will do just fine.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_0006.jpg

[bbn]

I bought this thing for P3k I think. It was in a lot better condition then, now I'd probably not pay that much. The reason why it was sold was the plastic housing is broken:

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_0002.jpg

Should be easy enough to repair with some fiberglass and epoxy. The case has nothing to do with the alignment as you might be able to see from the previous picture of the underside so I'm even thinking to make a new case from wood instead but I'm not decided on that.

The extension table arms are also gone. The cheap thin walled tubes that extend out rusted and died. I never did like those anyway.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_0003.jpg

[bbn]

Here is the equalized photo the inside:

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_0004b.jpg

[bbn]

The pictures are for Bee who is building his router table. Please take note, I do NOT like this fence because it is flimsy and misaligned. It does illustrate some interesting features.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_0011.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_0010.jpg

What I like about it is I can put in the trunk of my car.

[JayL]

I've had the Flexible Shaft for almost 20 years now. The brand marking I could find says only Wolfcraft and no indication where it was manufactured. Sorry I can't remember now how much I purchased it but it was not locally.

Is the fence assembly of the GMC RT made of Aluminum or Hard Plastic? Glad to know you're giving back new life to the tools.

Given a choice and with a larger compressor I prefer air tools because I seem to have better control due to the tools' lighter weight . Controllable power through air pressure adjustments as well as the trigger itself.

[beebeenator]

i was hoping at one point that HMR wouldve still have a gmc router table, oh well :

thanks for the pics lncc. WIll do finish up the adjustable face plates for my RT fence once i make a box or two with your jig :)

[bbn]

@Jay

Thanks for the insight bro. Never thought about it that way: air tools afford greater control due to their lighter weight.


@Bee
You mean with your jig that you swapped with me for :).

Nah I wouldn't recommend buying a router table, just make one. With a little foresight, patience and skill you can make one much better than this or even the bigger one I have.

[bbn]

I was able to take apart the table saw I'm fixing last night. As I said I first thought I could repair th plastic case with epoxy and fiberglass but it turns out the case is too far gone and I can build a much sturdier case with plywood.

Later I found that the aluminum table top is not flat anymore. It is not my fault, the casting is simply too thin in places IMHO. Something table saw buyers should watch out for. I'll be better off replacing that too. Oh I'm not unhappy because the mechanism is intact and quite robust actually, and this gives me the chance to customize the saw to my needs. Building tools is one of the things I enjoy.

I'm thinking 10 or 18 mm plywood (Tuff) with a laminate top, epoxy graphite guide slots, and "chopping board" cover plate. Still not decided about the fence guide. I'll attach the mechanism to the underside with fiber reinforced epoxy bushings. You guys would be amazed how strong these things are.

Sorry I can't take pictures because I left our camera in my office. I'll post pictures soon.



I am unhappy about the motor coupling I had bought at Evangelista yesterday. I paid P1,200 for what I consider a very poorly made part. I should have gone with my first instinct to make one myself. I don't have pictures but just try to imagine that the wall thickness varies, it thing is short, and IMHO softer than the original one. Crap, crap, crap! Sorry to say but the bushing I believe is a locally made. Filipinos can do a lot better than this. Whatever ...

The vacuum pump will come in very handy when I have to bond the laminate to the plywood top of the table saw above.

[JayL]

Looking forward to see more about your vacuum tool and its applications.

Thanks

[timber715]

I will be needing a vacuum pump soon... or maybe wanting one... or both? that is what is stopping me from making veneered pieces...

[bbn]

Where can one get veneers? I know Formaply sells veneers but in large quantities.

I'll definitely keep you guys updated.

[bbn]

Not quite done but it is getting there

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_0065_640x480.jpg

The fence is just there for show. I'm not really decided whether I want to use it or not ... seems flimsy and I often cut big pieces. Like this afternoon, I cut two pieces of Yakal measuring 40 mm x 200 mm x 2 m into 30 mm strips ... dang Yakal is heavy. The good news is the saw did very well ... as did my thicknesser and jointer. Now I have 8 pieces of Yakal about 38 mm x 30 mm x 2 m all S4S. I need to mill another set of these. These will all be laminated up to become the "fin" of the 18-foot sailboat I'm building.

I learned something the other day: a scroll saw blade may look like a coping saw blade but it is actually shorter! I went through pains about this. Thought my scroll saw was out of spec or something. As luck would have it, the fellows at Hans Tools thought I was looking for "scroll" saw blades with I was in fact looking for a "spiral" saw blade, when they showed me the scroll saw blades I the realized scroll saw blades are different from coping saw blades, Fantastic!

Thanks to Hans tools, I also got my belt sanders working. They have a nice selection of abrasive belts.

[JayL]

Looks a lot sturdier than the original. Wider too if I am not mistaken.

[timber715]

nice work Louis, will wait for completion... cheers.

[bbn]

Well let's hope it is completed. Usually when I get something to do what I need it to do that's the way it will stay till the next time I need it to do more.

Yes, it is wider. No specific reason really, mostly because the 18 mm plywood piece I had efficiently divided this way.

[beebeenator]

Louis

Are you planning to add miter slots? coz if you are i wanna see how you go about it

This is what i was planning for my TS too coz of the non-flat top

[bbn]

Hi Bee. Yes, I'm planing too put miter slots but I'm still considering how to do it. The challenge is to cut the slots parallel to the blade but even more critical is to cut the two slots exactly parallel to one another. This is the procedure I have in mind:

1. Raise blade to full height (unplug the saw!)
2. Setup fence parallel to the blade then put the blade down.
3. Referenced against the fence, a slot a little wider and deeper.
4. Fill the slot with epoxy filled with milled fiberglass and graphite.
5. Once cured, flatten the epoxy and cut the final slot.
6. Referenced against the first slot, cut the second slot and steps 4 and 5 to it.

Epoxy filled with milled fiberglass and graphite is extremely hard, harder even than mild steel IIRC. Also the graphite make the slot self lubricating. This is how I made the bushing that hold the saw mechanism. I'll take picture of those when I get the chance so you guys can see.

Before I do all this, I need to laminate some fiberglass to the top. Originally was thinking of using some laminate I have but epoxy fiberglass appeals to me more right now.

I also plan to put foldout sides but I ran out of 3/4" plywood. Too bad it was just yesterday that I found some scrap 3/4" marine plywood (from crates). Each measures about 44" x 40" and cost P230. I bought all four of them even though I've don't have a project for them right now.

[beebeenator]

hmmm ive never worked with fiberglass before. Where do you get graphite? is it t he same as the ones in pencils?

Well polymer philippines is along libis. :)

[bbn]

Not really sure but I think you're right about pencil leads being graphite. I bought a whole sack of it for my still-to-be foundry. I only really needed a bit of it but one-sack is the smallest quantity the vendor sells. So if you guys need some ... Aside from using it as a filler in my epoxy mixes, I also use it as a dry lubricant. For example, yesterday I sprinkled some on the bed of the jointer as the wood I was working tended to stick.

Fiberglass is a great material however it does have its off-side. For one, its dust from sanding will make you itch like crazy if it gets in your pores.

Actually, there is an epoxy manufacturer right beside your office (I think): Ultracote.

[bbn]

I've often found it inconvenient not being able to tilt my sliding compound miter saw both ways. Taking a cue from bro JayL, and finding an opportunity to get one of these:

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/l_04106068.jpg

for only P4,200 I closed the deal without a thought. It is brand new surplus of course so it is probably missing something and probably has something amiss but I'm sure I can work around that.

Will give my existing SCMS some TLC and then will sell it.

For those that work with mixing epoxy, a jeweler's scale is a must have. Got this one off eBay PH for P450:

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/88a4_12.jpg

[bbn]

Need some 1/2" dowels for my boat. I could use my little lathe to make them but I've always wanted to try this dowel making jig so I spent a few hours yesterday making one.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_0201_480x640.jpg

The round piece in front I did make on the lathe which is used to align the jig. The larger diameter is 3/4" and the smaller one is 1/2". The entire jig is mounted on a router and a straight bit sticks out between the two square blocks.

To use the jig you push a spinning square stock with sides measuring 2 * SQRT( 0.75^2 / 2 ) through the big hole and out comes a nice round dowel through the smaller one ... well something like that. Like all jigs, it does take some tweaking here and there.

The most important thing is to spin the workpiece fast and feed it slowly. I did this with a cordless drill with a headless screw chucked and driven into the wood. Some kind of flexible coupling would be better ... I was thinking plastic house or maybe a piece of heavy gauge wire insulation but could not find any.

It does work ... need to take photos of the results.

[bbn]

@Timber

You can see the dial gauge I mentioned earlier. As you can see the face is clouded. I used it to alight the x-y vise on the my drill press to make sure the holes for the jig's blocks were perfectly parallel to their base line.

[bbn]

Here are the dowels I made:

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/Picture001.jpg

Here is the drive point at the rear:

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/Picture002.jpg

Also spent sometime fixing my bench grinder. The grinder itself has always been working except the wetstone - big stone with a bucket, never did. The problem was that a plastic gear had its teeth worn out I think because a bushing jammed.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/Picture010.jpg

To fix it, I got the bright idea to reposition the worn gear so that the bit of teeth remaining would engage. It works now and I was able to give a few of chisels a nice sharp edge. The bushing should be replaced but first I need to buy or make a boring bar.

Here's a picture of my beatup SCMS:

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/Picture005.jpg

UGLY.

TTFN.

[beebeenator]

Nice dowels.

Wanted to make that jig a looong time ago to make dowels for dog holes.. But then my plywood top cant handle bench dogs so i moved the jig to the bottom of my list.

[timber715]

yup, saw the dial gauge Louis, can you post a picture on how this is made? a blade on the other side of the face?
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_0201_480x640.jpg

[bbn]

Nice dowels.

Wanted to make that jig a looong time ago to make dowels for dog holes.. But then my plywood top cant handle bench dogs so i moved the jig to the bottom of my list.

Thanks bee but they're not as nice as the pictures show. Some portions are wavy because I did not bother to adjust it more than I already did ... too hot and I only really need 30 mm lengths. Spinning the workpiece at a high rate while feeding it slowly improves the results a lot but you have to make sure you have good alignment with the drill spinning the workpiece or else the thing is going to wobble like crazy.

This is the basis of my jig: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/dowelmakingjig.aspx

I also made the rear piece but did not attach it.

Bee, you could put hardwood bushing for your workbench dogs. The higher surface area bearing on the plywood will increase the load a dog will be able to take. Epoxy around the hardwood bushing would be perfect for this application.


@ Timber

Sorry bro but I'm not sure I understand your question. The jig is mounted on top of a router with a straight bit sticking through the plywood base between the hardwood guides.

[timber715]

with the picture kasi I didn't see it was for the rt use. hence I wondered how it makes dowels... :)

[bbn]

Oh ok, sorry about that Timber. You are so much more industrious at documenting and showing others how to do things. Normally, I don't take pictures while I'm working, only during breaks and when my hands are clean.

The jig was attached to the based of my router with a bolt and an F-clamp. This way I could tap the thing to get the diameter I wanted. Wanting to get it over with as quickly as possible, I just clamped the router upside down in the woodworking vise.

The dowels are not perfect (0.5in) but close enough (0.45in) for epoxy.

[timber715]

that actuall looks good lncc, I figured I can mount it or semi-fix it in my plate since it has several holes on it. a simple fine adjustment bolt should give me control for it... thanks for the idea...

[bbn]

Thanks Timber. While trying to find the link I based this one on, I came across another one: http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/page.asp?p=977#. This looks better. I may just try it just for the fun of it.

[timber715]

I like that link Lou, very nice jigs... will build that jig instead... lol
thanks man...

[bigfoot2]

For those that work with mixing epoxy, a jeweler's scale is a must have. Got this one off eBay PH for P450:

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/88a4_12.jpg

I get these from 168 before, around the same price 400-450.

[bbn]

I addition to the P450 I also paid P60 for the shipping. I guess P60 is what I'd spend for fare if I went out and bought one but the savings in time is the real advantage. I've an 8-5 job so my free time is very precious to me.

[guad]

The electronic scale sounds like a good value compared with price range of mechanical ones. The label is not so clear. Capacity 500 g? 50.0 g? Resolution 1 g? 0.1 g?

Is there an accuracy spec? Batteries included? Calibration required?

Have you tested the accuracy? Without a lab standard, only way I can think of is to check whether the weight of some thing is 1/N of the total weight of N identical instances of the thing.

[beebeenator]

if it can be calibrated then it should be a great deal

We needed some calibration weight in our office. Got it at First Philippine Scale. Comes with certificate too

http://www.timbangan.ph/

[bbn]

This is a MIC so I doubt if it can be calibrated. I might try and open my old one. I only really need +/- 5% so it should be good enough. Epoxy is usually measured by volume, so for small amounts I used to use syringes but it is just too messy. For commercial or laboratory use, I'd stick with high-end scales.

The full scale is 500 grams with a 0.1 gram resolution.

Was able to take the new sliding compound miter saw out of the box and give it a few whirls. I'm happy with it though I am disappointed that it only actually tilts one way.

Tools like these will, 90% of the time, have some kind of defect. So far I've found two. First, the horizontal angle adjustment does not click into place so well. This should be easy enough to adjust. The second is that the vertical angle locking knob is "loose thread". I may have to make a new knob to replace it.

[bbn]

Found I needed more dowels than I could get from the stock I made so I decided to try that out jig.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_0229_640x480.jpg

Worked well enough:

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_0230_640x480.jpg

A lot easier to make than the first one.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_0226_640x480.jpg

[jarod]

Asteeeg! :rolleyes:

[bbn]

Thanks bro but not really. The quality from these jigs as compared to what I got from my lathe is far. Even my wood lathe will do a lot better. But if you are just making dowels for joinery with epoxy like I am then these are certainly a quick way to get satisfactory dowels.

Was finally able to solve how to connect a workpiece to the drill. The idea is to use a hex bolt driver. I have pictures but I'll have to post them later. Basically you pare the end of the workpiece down so it just about will go in a hex nut driver bit. No need to have a precise fit. To the driver bit on snugly just hammer it onto the end of the wood. This method is much better because first it compresses the workpiece. The screw method I was originally using put the worpiece in tension so it would easily fail. The second reason is that the driver bit will allow you to center the drill and worpiece much better without stressing the connection. The only problem I had was I couldn't find my socket driver set! So I had to pare down the ends of my workpieces a bit to fit the 13 mm driver bit I had on hand, a 17mm would have been perfect.

For those can use 12mm dowels, the jig has a 19 mm diameter entry and requires workpieces that are 13.4 mm wide on each side. For other entry diameters the formula is S = SQRT( D ^ 2 / 2 ).

[guad]

For those can use 12mm dowels, the jig has a 19 mm diameter entry and requires workpieces that are 13.4 mm wide on each side. For other entry diameters the formula is S = SQRT( D ^ 2 / 2 ).

Or simply S = D/sqrt(2) = D/1.414 = 0.707D :)

Just to flesh out the computation... Big D, the input hole diameter, is discretionary (depending on what drill bits are available) but must be at least 1.414d, where small d is the output hole diameter.

So, for d = 0.5" (12.7 mm) output diameter,
1.414d = 0.707" (18 mm) is the minimum input diameter,
but one probably does not have such drill bit; the next available bit size is
D = 3/4" (19 mm)
which calls for a square size S of 13.4 mm, slightly larger than the minimum possible, which is d.

[bbn]

You're right! Hmmm ... why didn't I see that.

As promised some pictures:

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_0237_480x640.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_0240_640x480.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_0241_640x480.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_0242_640x480.jpg

[bbn]

Cleaning out the pile of wood scraps under my workbench, I came across this jig but for the life of me I cannot remember what it is for. For the fun of it help me remember by suggesting what it did.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_0250_640x480.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_0251_480x640.jpg

[bbn]

Yesterday, I also found a 1500w table saw motor. Sorry no pictures but it looks pretty much the same as the GMC motor assembly a few posts back but less most of the tilt and level adjustment mechanism. I wondering what tool I can build with it. Some thoughts are:

1. Thickness sander, rather big project though but one I've had my eye on for awhile.
2. Stationary disk and/or belt sander, already have these but find them wanting - short a bed and too small a disk.

[timber715]

the jig looks like it is for the ts or rt, seems to have a ski for something. could it be a taper jig for long pieces?
thickness sander takes my vote, start on it lang, slowly but surely when you have time to work on it...

[bbn]

We have the same guess bro but honestly I can't remember ... maybe because it is so ugly or even that it did not work :)

Made a new knob for my scrollsaw:

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_0273_640x480.jpg

This is the motor I was talking about:

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_0266_640x480.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_0268_640x480.jpg

Still not decided what to do with it. A thickness sander is the prime candidate but we'll see. I have a mind to build another table saw with a more robust tilt and depth mechanism.

[timber715]

direct drive motor yan Louis? looks like it is in decent shape. we'll follow along on what you will do with it... popcorn mode muna...

[bbn]

Parang sine ...

Yup seems to be in decent shape though I should power it first to make sure it is not fried ... doesn't smell like it is. I took dimensions last night so if I can squeeze it in today I'll make a Sketchup model.

I bought plans from PlansNow a long time ago for a belt sander. It is suppose to sit on top of a table saw and be driven by it by replace the blade with a pulley and connecting a belt. Neat design but I'm still not decided.

[beebeenator]

I bought the same plan too. But i am way too afraid to use it on my TS since parang hirap ata ts ko... either that or iam using way too many toothed blade for ripping 2 inch thick wood. 100 tooth eh :) i know i should use 60

[bbn]

Just like me ... I used a 120 tooth and wrecked it :<

[guad]

100, 120 tooth is metal (e.g., aluminum) territory, isn't it.

I assume what was destroyed was the blade, as opposed to motor? What was the failure mode -- burning of wood and overheating/burning of teeth, leading to dulling?

[bbn]

IIRC bro it was a blade for plywood. I've seen aluminum cut with a miter saw but never really looked into it. I've always cut metal with a chop saw. What's the difference between such blades anyway?

By "destroyed" I meant the blade became dull to the point where it was too painful to use: slow cutting rates and burned wood. Have yet to find a place that can sharpen these carbide toothed blades. I don't really have plans of using my old TS now but it would be a shame to waste a 12" blade.

[bbn]

Laminating fiberglass to wood should not be done while the temperature is rising because this will possibly result in bubbles forming between the fiberglass and the wood. This is due to the outgassing of the plywood. So after lunch while waiting for the temperature to start dropping, I decided to see if I could breath life back into on of my "spare" thickness planers. Luck smiled on me yesterday and by about 2 pm, I had another working planer:

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/lcasambre/shoptools/IMG_0324_640x480.jpg

If I had more time I'd have taken the whole thing apart, cleaned of all the spots of rust and swapped out the motor for another that sounds better but this wasn't really the objective of the day. The present motor sounds acceptable anyway. The only problem of this planer I found was that the switch contacts were dirty so it would not turn on sometimes (a shame what some people throw away). Once I had it running I turned the blades so I'd be using the unused edges. Finally, I calibrated it to no more than a 0.1 mm error.

Sorry no pictures, I won't dare touch the wife's camera with greasy hands.

[timber715]

nice work Louis, Ryobi planners or thicknessers are loved by a lot of americans as well, they are as they say workhorses too...
hehehehe, maybe you can change the thread name na rin... umalis na si LNCC63.... hahahaha

[bbn]

Oo nga no. I forgot that one.

[bbn]

LNCC,

re: your clampmeter, you can probably use that if you fix an aircon unit or something like that.

Or, if you become a demo presenter of those electricity saving gadgets on some homeshopping network, that yellow and red beauty will do just fine :)

Cheers !

Not really sure how man times I've done this: When these electricity savings gadgets guys come around I play dumb and ask them to explain their device. They'll give me a lot of "smoke" and I'll press they explain in terms I can understand eventually revealing that I'm kind of adept at electricity. They'll make excuses and leave FOREVER.

Reply not too late ... its not been 12 months.

[rolly]

nabuhay ah. . .

[timber715]

nice to have you visit us again Louis, staying? hope you would... puro ht na kasi inaatupag eh :charing2:

[bbn]

Thanks guys. Staying? Can't say though I'm embarking on a new DIY project - a DIY LCD projector. I think that could be the ultimate display for a home theater. Anyone interested can checkout this small community of Pinoys building these things HERE (http://z6.invisionfree.com/diyprojectorphils/index.php?act=idx).