Automotive Tools

[JayL]

Allow me to share to you some of the tools we use to tinker with Honda cars during our free time.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1049.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1051.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1052.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1053.jpg

[JayL]

and ....


http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1055.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1056.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1057.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1058.jpg

[JayL]

and ...


http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1059.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1062-1.jpg

[bbn]

Nice set of tools bro ... but they need more dirt on them :) :) ... I volunteer.

[trackers888]

Pang auto repair shop na to sa dami ng tools! :)

[guad]

An extensive set of good tools needs to be accompanied by ... the factory service/repair manual! The official one used by the dealer's own mechanics. Is this available from Honda Philippines for Honda cars, or from any other manufacturer for that matter?

So far, I've been considering buying a Mazda or Subaru car, and both said that it is not possible to buy their service manuals in the Philippines.

In US, the factory service manual is just another part (or set of parts) that anyone can buy from the parts department. I suppose Philippine car dealers do not make their official manuals available so that DIYers and third-party repair shops cannot easily fix their cars themselves after the warranty expires?

[JayL]

Nice set of tools bro ... but they need more dirt on them :) :) ... I volunteer.

You are welcome to the shop bro. This garage shop services only 5 cars all in all.

[JayL]

An extensive set of good tools needs to be accompanied by ... the factory service/repair manual! The official one used by the dealer's own mechanics. Is this available from Honda Philippines for Honda cars, or from any other manufacturer for that matter?

So far, I've been considering buying a Mazda or Subaru car, and both said that it is not possible to buy their service manuals in the Philippines.

In US, the factory service manual is just another part (or set of parts) that anyone can buy from the parts department. I suppose Philippine car dealers do not make their official manuals available so that DIYers and third-party repair shops cannot easily fix their cars themselves after the warranty expires?

We use this manual for our 1999 Honda Civic project car. Torque settings are the most important data we need from this manual.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1222.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Vtech-Day-7-04-09-2009.jpg

[JayL]

more tools .....

KD Tools Hook and Pick Set

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1131.jpg

GearWrench Ratcheting Screw Driver

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1132.jpg

SK Tools Stubby Ratcheting Screw Driver

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1133.jpg

my favorite wrenches GearWrench Cross Force Metric Wrench Set

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1135.jpg

[bbn]

I'm curious bro. How does having the wrenches twisted help? My grandfather was a mechanic and he had his wrenches shortened so they could fit in tight spaces.

Why only 5 cars? Collection? Racing team?

[JayL]

@Incc63

Here's a short description of the XL X-beam from the manufacturer.

http://gearwrench.com/catalog/wrenches/ratcheting/xl_x-beam/index.jsp?view=Metric

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/beautyshot.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/beautyshot1.jpg

I like the wrenches twisted because of the increased contact surface with the palm., much more comfortable to use.


"Why only 5 cars? Collection? Racing team? "

- we service only our own. Several daily driven vehicles and a modified 1999 Honda Civic SIR.

[bbn]

Thanks bro. Yup those are better wrenches.

[B2Bomber]

er, just a quick one... did you purchase your gear wrench locally? if so, mind if I ask where? I'm looking at the quadbox...tia.

[JayL]

er, just a quick one... did you purchase your gear wrench locally? if so, mind if I ask where? I'm looking at the quadbox...tia.

I purchased these GearWrench products online from sears.com and amazon.com.

[JayL]

MacPherson Strut Spring Compressor


http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP2464.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP2462.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP2463.jpg

[JayL]

Koken 24" Breaker Bar

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP2483.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP2485.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP2486.jpg

[JayL]

Oil Filter Wrenches

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1956.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1955.jpg

[timber715]

I like Koken socket wrenches, they do have a very good reputation for durability... nice collection already but still so much to buy... hay... heheheh. conrats bro.

[JayL]

After what happened to this Toptul in the shop I am switching to Koken now for locally purchased hand tools.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP2434.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP2433.jpg

[JayL]

Unior 300mm ( 11.8" ) locking plier

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP2538.jpg

Vise Grip 10R length comparison

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP2541.jpg

[JayL]

Masada 2 Ton Jack ( Japan )

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1952.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1950.jpg


Aigo ( Japan ) LYS - 2,650 pesos

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1932.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1934.jpg

[JayL]

Unior ( Slovenia )

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1927.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1928.jpg

Urban Wrench ( Japan )

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1012.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1014.jpg

[JayL]

Record 5 1/2" Vise Panda - less than 4K

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1926.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1924.jpg

Wilton 6 1/2" Mechanics Vise Panda - 4,300 pesos

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0926-1.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0928.jpg

[fgvillegas]

I like the Masada 2 Ton Jack ( Japan ) in post # 21.

Anybody who knows where to buy this and how much?

Thanks.

[JayL]

I like the Masada 2 Ton Jack ( Japan ) in post # 21.

Anybody who knows where to buy this and how much?

Thanks.

I bought mine at LYS Hardware in Recto for slightly less than 12K.

[JayL]

Gasoline Engine Compression Tester / amazon.com $35

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP2607.jpg

Craftsman Handi-Cut. / sears.com $17

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0922.jpg

Mayhew Screwdriver type Pry Bars w/ strike caps / amazon.com $60

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1604.jpg

[JayL]

Bahco 12" Adjustable Wrench - the same company who makes adjustable wrenches for Snap-On.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0001.jpg

Panda - 865 pesos

[miro69]

wow... very nice tools sir.

[timber715]

wow... very nice tools sir.
they are, and if you believe me, they are just the tip of the iceberg... nice collection so far bro. Jay

[JayL]

Thank you very much. Will post as much pics for the benefit of those wanting to do DIY automotive work.

[guad]

Will post as much pics for the benefit of those wanting to do DIY automotive work.

How about store and price? Or at least store?

[JayL]

How about store and price? Or at least store?

Ok . Will post store and prices too whenever possible.

[JayL]

Some ratchets

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0011.jpg

Drive tools & extensions

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0004.jpg

Crowfoot wrenches ( Flared Type ) / used with ratchets and usually long extensions to work around task having clearance problem

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0006.jpg

[JayL]

Flare Nut Wrenches ( very good for brake lines )

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0007.jpg

Magnetic Spark Plug Socket Wrench

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0013.jpg

Oil Filter Wrenches / Magnetic Drain Plug Socket 17mm ( these are good types for DIY Oil Changing )

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0012.jpg

[JayL]

This tool has never been used at all and I hope I don't have to use it.

Stripped Bolts Removal Kit

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0009.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0008.jpg

Gearwrench Adapters. Converts a ratcheting wrench to a very low profile ratchet. As little as 6 degrees needed to turn a nut or bolt.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0014.jpg

[spyghost]

sir, where did you purchase your coil spring compressor and flare nut wrench set?

[JayL]

Coil Spring Compressor - Panda Construction Supply for around 3K

Flare nut Wrenches - amazon.com

http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-81906-Six-Piece-Metric-Wrench/dp/B000NI93SE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1269490220&sr=8-4

[JayL]

Most of the tools on post 33-34 works great when there is too much obstruction and more often than not clearance is a problem. Sometimes obstructing parts need to be taken off in order to get to the task but with the proper tools these unnecessary steps can be avoided. Example are modified turbo cars such as this wherein the engine bay is too cramped.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/2.jpg (http://s514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/?action=view&current=2.jpg)

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/3.jpg (http://s514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/?action=view&current=3.jpg)

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/1.jpg (http://s514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/?action=view&current=1.jpg)

[JayL]

Irwin Hanson and Powercraft COBALT drill bits.

The Powercraft is available locally and is a good set. Timber did a review on this kit and found the bits to be hard and sharp. ( less than 1,700 pesos ).

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1953.jpg (http://s514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/?action=view&current=IMGP1953.jpg)

[spyghost]

Some ratchets

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0011.jpg

Drive tools & extensions

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0004.jpg

Crowfoot wrenches ( Flared Type ) / used with ratchets and usually long extensions to work around task having clearance problem

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0006.jpg

another question here bro regarding sourcing of tools.

where'd you get your crowfoot? i am after one that is not flared. something in range of 32mm. i need to remove my inner tie rod and the only possible tool that can do this is a crowfoot. i am hoping that this is locally available.

[JayL]

I purchased my crowfoot set here.

http://www.tooltopia.com/

I don't know if a 32mm regular crowfoot will be available locally.

What vehicle are you working on for this rack end application?

[spyghost]

I purchased my crowfoot set here.

http://www.tooltopia.com/

I don't know if a 32mm regular crowfoot will be available locally.

What vehicle are you working on for this rack end application?

i am going to remove the rack ends of a lancer glx 2000. space in the recessed portion of the rack ends are so tight. i couldn't get an adjustable spanner inside. the only thing left for me to have is a crowfoot which could fit on that tight area and give me enough leverage to turn.

[JayL]

I once did a Rack End replacement for a Lancer GSR 2000 ( 2 door ) without using a crowfoot. The problem too was how to access the rack end (at driver side) without using a crowfoot. I did it from the engine bay by removing the intake to gain clearance. I used a 12" adjustable wrench and tapping it with a hammer at the handle end to loosen the part.

Passenger side had no clearance problem and was easily accessed by the adjustable wrench.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP2514.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP2515.jpg

[spyghost]

hi, thanks for the info. if that were a gsr 2k, i think that's exactly the same as mine... even part numbers and engine bay. its just the doors which are different.

anyway, i was able to do mine with an 8" pipe wrench. you are right no clearance issues on the passenger side - i did this under the car. as far as the driver side is concerned, i removed also the charcoal canister to be able to make room - this time above the car.

as far as re-installation is concerned, i think it'll just be the reverse. i just can't do the proper torque this time kasi tansyahan lang.

nevertheless, i still need to get a flare nut wrench because i will end up dismantling my whole rack. i found out the the driver side (rack gear side) is leaking with atf - very minmal only but since my car is already lifted and most are undone, might as well remove it na for replacement of seals. just need to gain access to at most a 17mm flare wrench

[JayL]

If there are no clearance issues these are good tools to use too and sometimes does better job than a flare wrench.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0043.jpg

[spyghost]

what do you call those jaws? is that irwin?

[JayL]

Jaws = Locking Wrench

Yes those are Vise Grips made by Irwin or Petersen , US Made. The big one can go up to 19mm. Excellent tool for loosening nuts and bolts.

I purchased mine at Wilcon Makati and the prices were very good 300-400 pesos each IIRC. Must be old stock.

This is the smaller one 7LW

http://www.amazon.com/Vise-Grip-Locking-Wrench-Wire-Cutter/dp/B00004SBBD/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_c

This is the big one 10LW

http://www.amazon.com/Vise-Grip-10LW-Locking-Wrench-Cutter/dp/B00004SBB8

[JayL]

Koken 1/2" Drive Speed Handle - old school stuff. Sometimes good to use too instead of air tools specially when you want to "feel" the fastener threads.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0069.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0073.jpg

[spyghost]

where is wilcon makati located?

[JayL]

Pasong Tamo near Don Bosco.

[JayL]

Gearwrench PASS-THRU socket set in 1/4" & 3/8" drive ( Standard and Metric )

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0119.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0120.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0121.jpg

[JayL]

Craftsman Gasket Scrapers

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0128.jpg

Craftsman Punch and Chisel set

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0129.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0130.jpg

[JayL]

Gearwrench 3/8" drive XL Torque Wrench ( 25 - 250 inch pound )

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0123.jpg

Craftsman Bastard Files

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0126.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0127.jpg

[timber715]

panay na panay ang shipment mo bro ah? ganda ng tools as always...

[JayL]

I've had these for a while now but these are for my personal use kaya hindi masyado gamit.

[JayL]

The favorite Snap ON torque wrench of a good portion of North American wrenchers.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=65311&group_ID=958&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

The Split Beam Torque Wrench design.

The Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) for Snap ON is Precision Instruments.

http://www.torqwrench.com/

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/pe1.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/pe2.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/pe3.jpg

20-100 foot pounds 3/8" Drive w/ Flex Head. Excellent for automotive top engine works.

The same SO torque wrench (except for the red color) at a lesser and affordable price. The Snap On name is very expensive.

[timber715]

I study my purchases, but compared to you, I look like a newbie... very nice Jay. I miss my automotive days...

[JayL]

You can always go back to auto from time to time as soon as your new space becomes operational.

[timber715]

You can always go back to auto from time to time as soon as your new space becomes operational.

:) yes, but only if it is for personal use...

[JayL]

This Chiwanese generic click type torch wrench. design is quite good. Available locally at very affordable prices and appear in brand names such as SKs, Buffalo etc. If one needs a torque wrench with good bang for the money then this design is something to consider. Stays in calibration as long as one remembers to set it back a notch up the LOWEST SETTING during storage. Even the tool snobs at garagejournal except for the die hard ones agree that this tool gets the job done.

Some pics in 1/2" and 3/8" drive.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0167.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0169.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0168.jpg

[jarod]

I'm looking for one of these so as to eliminate the guessing.

Where and how much could these run for? Set or no set.

Thanks sir JayL!

[JayL]

I purchased my set more than 12 years ago and these still work like a charm.

However I recently purchased for our auto shop an SKs brand 1/2" drive torque wrench ( of the same design ) at LYS in Recto for 1,152 pesos. The tool range was from 10 to 150 foot pounds. So far after 4 months of heavy commercial use its still doing fine.

Hope this helps.

[jarod]

Thanks JayL!

[JayL]

Good 4" 3-jaw puller for the price paid. P242

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/p1-1.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/p2-1.jpg

KD Tools Battery Terminal or Windshield Wiper Puller

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/kp2.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/kp1.jpg

[JayL]

For the 3.5K I paid for this power washer in Binondo it became one of the tools I have which gave high ROI. For more than 2 years plus now it had kept my car's engine and under chassis clean at a fraction of the cost to have it done in a car wash.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1126-1.jpg

It had replaced a Karcher which gave up the ghost and proved a lot more expensive to repair than buy a new one like the washer above. Sometimes expensive tools are not at all better as I experienced here.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1127-1.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1128.jpg

[JayL]

Some hardworking automotive tools ....

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0244.jpg




http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0246.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0236.jpg


http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0237.jpg

[JayL]

We got this 92 Model Lancer for a song and dance. Will give it new life using all Japanese Made replacement parts ONLY. The idea is to further bench mark Mitsu replacement parts and separate the good brands from the not so good ones. The cost savings compared to OEM are substantial if one knows what to look for and buy.

Under chassis down for a rebuild.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0247.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0241.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0240.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0243.jpg

[JayL]

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0234.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0229.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0227.jpg

Engine works get a preview too. Still deciding if to go for a full rebuild.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0233.jpg

[JayL]

Ignition Wrenches

A small, open-ended wrench about 3 inches (75mm) long. It has two jaw openings set at different angles to the handle, e.g., 15° at one end and 60° or 75° at the other. (The British term is electrical spanner).

Craftsman Brand in Metric and English

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0220.jpg

Engineer

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0222.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0224.jpg

[spyghost]

is the rim for the vise bolted to the floor?

[JayL]

is the rim for the vise bolted to the floor?

No. It was designed to be moved around the work area when a need arise in order to maximize usage.

For this reason I chose a 17" rim as base for wider floor contact.

[spyghost]

No. It was designed to be moved around the work area when a need arise in order to maximize usage.

For this reason I chose a 17" rim as base for wider floor contact.


does it budge when torquing and untorquing bolts?

where'd you get that big steelies?

[JayL]

does it budge when torquing and untorquing bolts?

where'd you get that big steelies?

No. You could also step on the base for added support and leverage.

I buy from junk shops. 20 pesos per kilo.

[spyghost]

wow... i'd better find something like that for my vise. junkshops here in marikina are literally junk shops... garbage...

i think i'm scrapping the idea of my workbench. i'd make something like a folding one like jack olsen's. and a steel rim base for my vise and grinder.

i also intend to put maybe cement inside the rims for added weight.

[JayL]

That's what I am doing now in my home garage. Folding workbench and rim bases for my vises and bench grinders. Space is a premium so I have actually few design choices.

An anvil is also a good tool to have.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/anvil.jpg

[bbn]

Nice anvil there Jay. I'd like one just like it. I saw one at Han's tools selling for P5k IIRC ... maybe later ... though I've been told 2nd hand ones are just as good except you have to get lucky to find one.

[JayL]

Cheaper in Binondo around 40% less.

I purchased this in the junk shop for around 1k. Problem is it is too noisy when hammered on. Unlike the anvil which absorbs most of the sound.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/5-2.jpg

[JayL]

For stuck nuts and bolts and the occasional heating short of firing up the oxy ace torch.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0271.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0274.jpg

[JayL]

I mounted my 4" Vise already. Cost of the base is

15" Truck Rim - 350
2 " Pipe - 150
8" x 9" Top Plate 3/8" - 200
7" Round Base Plate 3/8" - 180
Paint
Welding

I don't have much mounting options except for a movable base. Space constraints for another workbench.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0278.jpg

[JayL]

Some good quality Japanese Made Replacement Auto Parts ....

555 Brand for Tie Rods, Bolt Joints, Rack Ends

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/555.jpg

Bando Brand for Belts

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Bando.jpg

KYB Brand for Shock Absorbers ( some models might be Made in Thailand now but of good quality too from same company )

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/KYB.jpg

[JayL]

Black & Decker Crossfire Auto Level Laser

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-BDL310S-Projected-Crossfire/dp/B0002TG1DE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1272799343&sr=8-1

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1526.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1527.jpg

[JayL]

I hope a good store like Panda will carry this products. Very good line of Taiwan made automotive tools with a decent prices.

http://www.gearwrench.com/

[spyghost]

i thought gearwrench is US?

[JayL]

Danaher Tool Group who owns KD Tools and Gearwrench is a US company. They have already moved production to Asia. Gearwrench are high quality Asian made tools.

[JayL]

Garage is busy today. I already cleaned up a bit but still looks messy. I need to build one more folding table and probably a rolling tool cart to help get things more organized during work. Probably piping the compressed air lines too would make it more efficient.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0966.jpg



http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0972.jpg

We were fabricating some custom brackets and installing Hood Flush Pin Kits on the car.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0965.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0970.jpg

[beebeenator]

i dont know about cars but that looks neat

[JayL]

Notice the table. No more space to work on. I need a tool cart to hold the tools and free the table top. :(

[moji]

You've got too much tools already!:p Like in your shop..tool storage is always a problem of mine..

Is that a real carbon fiber hood? looks nice..

[beebeenator]

i saw those tool storage metal things in hans... costs as MUCH as my entire workshop :)

[JayL]

i saw those tool storage metal things in hans... costs as MUCH as my entire workshop :)

Yeah if going for metal storage then it could get expensive. The six drawer Unior mobile tool cart I inquired cost around 35K.

I'm thinking to build one using welded angle bars and then put plywood drawers. It will be a lot cheaper unless I find a metal surplus box to refurbish.

[JayL]

Finally got the left and right Hood Flush Pin Locks installed. Dremel is really a very useful tool specially with the flexible shaft.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/hfp.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/hfp2.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Dremel.jpg

Any good place to purchase Dremel accessories. Thinking of adding up some in the arsenal for future use.

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-710-02-160-Piece-Accessory/dp/B002L3RUWA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1278406488&sr=8-2

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-EZ406-Cut-Off-Mandrel-Cutting/dp/B000FBLRVA/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1278408151&sr=8-7

[beebeenator]

panda and hans tools has dremel accessories.

the 130 piece accessory is taunting me.... i have an black and decker RTX which serves me real good :)

[timber715]

to jayL, san exact location mu xa pasay?
sir I will correct your post. you do have a keyboard, please use them well. try to avoid typing as if you are texting on a cell phone. if it was a typo, I apologize, but if you are a jejemon... :mad:

[JayL]

to jayL, can i get ur exact location in pasay en ur cp# . papakita ko din sna syo mga tools ko puro snap on and germany made.

Can you please post some pics of your tools here too.

[timber715]

some of my automotive tools include Snap-ons... and one way to know if these are the real thing it bears markings that indicate the year they are manufactured...
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0079.jpg
all pieces carry these marks when the belong to a set... and this is where they are located in the tools...
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0080.jpg
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0083.jpg
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0081.jpg
and these marks can be verified in the snap-on website I reckon...

[timber715]

got a pm from Ong...
yang date code ng snap on matagal ko ng alam yan 1988 palang alam ko na yan. year 2000 pala yang sayo. sakin mga 80 and 90 meron papala 1960.
good for you, I am aware that you know the year models (I did see the year chart you had in one your pictures). You see not all people are aware of them, maybe since you are well stocked and knowledgeable with Snap-on, maybe you can teach us what to look for when buying secondhand ones... or maybe what makes Snap-on good?
Did you buy these tools locally? maybe you can tell us where to get the new ones with the best prices?
I may not know what you know about these tools, I only worked in uptown indl. sales for two years under snap-on tools anyway.
btw, did you know other than sockets and wrenches, most of snap-on tools are made by other tool company (maybe you know this too)? Oh, and maybe you know the guys that sell them locally too? and where to access warranty claims locally? Maybe you can educate us a bit?

[fake_silhouette]

now those are tools!!!
quite a nice set for an enthusiast

i didn't see spring compressors and bearing removers though

anyway how do you keep those from getting molds and getting rusted and even getting lost? just WD40?
________
ANGER MANAGEMENT ADVICE (http://www.health-forums.org/anger-management/)

[JayL]

Most of the tool pics are from my garage workshop. Usually I'm the only one working here so I have no problems with losing tools. Rust can't be avoided as I'm in Pasay and it's near the sea. However I found out that wiping the seldom used tools with HYDRAULIC OIL keeps rust at bay.

[timber715]

nice question... I keep my tools clean before and after use. some tools that are bare metal that has a tendency to rust with humidity I try to keep lubricated with a very thin oil. as for lending tools, I just say I'm sorry but I don't lend my tools. I will help using my tools but lending is a no no. that is why I save my hard earn pennies just to buy the best that I can afford. I don't buy them for others to borrow...
I do remember someone saying "ang swapang mo naman", I just give them a stare and tell them to buy their own or borrow from someone else.... people just have the nerve sometimes...

[bobbypage1]

Would WD-40 or sewing machine oil do, timb?

[timber715]

Would WD-40 or sewing machine oil do, timb?
it really depends Ramon. I always hate it when the drill press column always seem to get rusty. tried WD40, Castrol oil (tira ng change oil), singer oil and even Teflon oil. none worked as I preferred, they always seem to get some rust one way or another. what I did that cured the problem was greased it with Molybdenum grease then wipe off excess, did the job but left it greasy which was ok since I don't hold them anyway. less used tools that have bare metal should be lubed a bit heavily and for the commonly used tools can be oiled lightly since our hand do emit a little oil and unfortunately water :) IMHO...

[bobbypage1]

I had the same experience with WD40 & singer oils. Some small rusty areas after some time.

Have heard of moly grease from RC enthusiasts before. Is it available locally?

Thanks

[timber715]

very much available Ramon...

[bobbypage1]

.
Thanks again timb

You're still up?

[john-jo]

...as for lending tools, I just say I'm sorry but I don't lend my tools. I will help using my tools but lending is a no no. that is why I save my hard earn pennies just to buy the best that I can afford. I don't buy them for others to borrow... .. someone saying "ang swapang mo naman", ... people just have the nerve sometimes...

Yeah. Right! It's tough specially if its your next door neighbor. Just to be neighborly, I bought some cheap Hand tools for those times when you just can't say no, but made it a point to mention- paki balik lang po agad dahil ginagamit ko pa. ...you know..just being pinoy... But for power tools.. NEVA!!

[JayL]

NOS Petersen and Irwin Vise Grips.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1109.jpg

[moji]

Wow! Lupit ng collection mo ng vise grips!

[JayL]

@ Moji

Thanks :)

@ Owyn

Do you think this small Battery Charger would work out for electrolysis work? Would like to try this rust removal method on a small scale for now. Label says 6 or 12V / 6A. 110V

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1121.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1123.jpg

Thanks

[owyn]

I use a 6 amp too. But on big items like lathe rails, i found i had to use a pc PSU in conjunction with it to give the bubblies. For the purpose it's better for the charger to be simple( not smart/load sensing) and has a fuse cause shorting is very possible (haven't had any accidents tho.) The fan on the charger's a DIY plus heatsink for the bridge rectifier inside. Can draw 8 amps for the first few hours then ~6 amps for 3 straight days ^_^.

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss1/owyn_band_so_long/TPC/Image0154.jpg

Ingat sir. When i do it, i make sure teh charger is placed where it won't get knocked off, and if it gets knocked off it's far away from the solution. Or if the tub leaks it would be safe etc... sort of imagining accidents before it could ever happen.

EDIT: Oh hey, it's a schumacher. That's the brand some folks at owwm.org use.

[JayL]

I've had this charger for more than 15 years now although IIRC it was not used more than 5 times.

Thanks for the info.

[john-jo]

NOS Petersen and Irwin Vise Grips.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1109.jpg

Sir JayL,
Your collection is outstanding!
What type or shape would you recommend for a newbie on the many various available locking pliers? I can see from your collection that its gonna be daunting for a newcomer, with so many features available. Its going to be a few pieces only for general home use and diy.
Thanks in advance!

[JayL]

If I am going to purchase my very first Vise Grip pliers I will buy a model 10WR. It's available locally and looks like this.

http://www.toolbarn.com/irwinvisegrip-0502l3.html

An all around tool for general work.

Then for my second one I'll get a 9LN.

http://www.toolbarn.com/irwinvisegrip-1502l3.html

If you will be using it for smaller stuff then you can get the shorter ones 7WR & 6LN respectively. The number in the model represent the tool length in inches.

[john-jo]

My mistake JayL. I guess I boo-booed on my question..

Actually i have both of those you mentioned for the past years, what i intended to ask was what would be a few good ones to start with, aside from the 2 basic ones, for general welding works which one may be getting into, i have a bunch of wood working F-clamps and C-clamps but have to do a lot thinking and wedging before putting it in place, and still its ineffective, slow, and takes up a better part of the day. By the time i am ready to weld, the sun is punching out for the day... :confused:

I'm sure your recommendation will be helpful. Thanks!

[JayL]

For welding the most useful ones I have are the locking C-Clamps and in particular the 11R and to a lesser degree the 6R.

http://www.amazon.com/Vise-11-Inch-Regular-Locking-C-Clamp/dp/B00004SBBH

This is also useful but not as often used as the 11R or 6R.

http://www.amazon.com/Vise-Grip-9-Inch-Locking-Welding-Clamp/dp/B00004SBCC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1280295854&sr=8-1

[john-jo]

Thanks Jay.
will be sure to get them.
Whats the pros and cons of the fixed tips compared to some movable tips I see in the picture? :rolleyes:

[JayL]

Movable or swivel tips are good for woodworking applications. For metal I prefer the fixed tips.

[guad]

If I am going to purchase my very first Vise Grip pliers I will buy a model 10WR. It's available locally and looks like this.
http://www.toolbarn.com/irwinvisegrip-0502l3.html


Using 10WR as an example:

It seems that 10WR is some kind of generic model number (standing for 10" curved jaw) but there is also a more specific designation like 0502L3 in the cited website (Toolbarn).

Locally, for 10WR, I have seen the specific designation 0502EL4 at one Handyman. I do not know what the significance of this more specific designation is, e.g., some kind of version? country of manufacture? country of intended sale?

The 10WR 0502EL4 (Made in USA, blue and yellow tag) was on sale recently at the particular Handyman for P799.75 -20% = P639.80. I don't know how this compares with the Binondo prices.

[john-jo]

Thanks Sir Jay, Sir Guad.

Happen to pass by Harrison Plaza and unexpectedly saw this (new?) “WorkStation” hardware –Diy Store on the 2nd floor.

Just bought this out of impulse so I can try it out this weekend, couldn’t resist this Daiken 11" Locking C-Clamp, since the guy who assisted was friendly and it costs P334 less 10%. (Dunno of any price ref.) :confused:

[JayL]

My Puma Air Drill's chuck is giving up the ghost. It has a problem now. The drill bit is skipping and rotating inside the chuck during medium torque drilling. This happens even when the chuck is fully tightened.

Can it be repaired or it now needs to be replaced?

Jacobs Multi Craft Chuck 1/2 (13mm cap) Model 3/8-24KK

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/d1.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/d3.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/d2.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/drillchuck.jpg

and how do I remove it?

Thanks in advance for your inputs.

Update : On closer inspection I think the screw that holds the chuck is missing. Could this be what's causing the problem? I also don't know what kind of screw it is.

[bryant77]

JayL,

See the link below. There's a procedure how to dis-assemble the jacob chuck.

http://www.beautifuliron.com/jacobs.htm

[jarod]

Since we are in the mood for drills, I also wonder how to aling my hand drill.

Being a newb, I overlooked at checking if the Skil drill that I bought was centerly aligned when spinning (is there a better term for that) I only realized it when I was already working and using the said drill. Being such, the drill bits does not spin concentric with the chuck.

[bryant77]

@ jarod

I think it has to do with the chuck ("3 finger like thingy") eto kase yun humahawak sa drillbit. Happened to my drill after mabagsak at tumama yun dulo ng chuck sa flooring.

I ended up buying a new set of chuck assembly. Madali lang naman magpalit.

[timber715]

run out Jarod, could be lots of things. fisrt check the drill bits for straighness (from simplest to most difficult always), dirt inside chuck could also cause that(make sure its clean and free of debris. then check the chuck without a bit. fully close it and lay it flat so it will not move when you run the motor. visual check lang. if you see a wobble sa chuck send it over sa court, will give it to Golden for support. often it is caused by a the chuck shaft not properly installed or not centered. can also be caused when dropped. they will most probably remove and reinstall the chuck to get it centered if that is the cause.
btw, is the other term "excited"?

[jarod]

Thanks bryant77 and timber715! Will do those and hopefully get to see what's really the problem. I saw that issue the first time I get to use the drill and that's why it hadn't seen much action after 2 times of usage because I'm of breaking the bits.

Hay...noobness!

If all else fails, I'll try to bring the drill to the supreme court for a hearing and hopefully all things would end well :p

[timber715]

If all else fails, I'll try to bring the drill to the supreme court for a hearing and hopefully all things would end well :p
I will be the judge of that.... hahahaha

[JayL]

The Allen L key and hammer method didn't work out with my aging Puma air drill chuck removal.

However 2 days submerged in transmission fluid and a 135 ft-lb 3/8 drive impact wrench did the trick.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/GJ/1-4.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/GJ/2-4.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/GJ/IMGP1346-1.jpg

Now I need a new 1/2" ( 13mm ) chuck w/ 3/8 - 24UNF thread. :)

[JayL]

Blue Point Universal Overhead Cam Valve Spring Compressor Model YA9140

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/BPVSC2.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/BP1.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/BP4.jpg

[JayL]

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/BP2.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/BP3.jpg

16 Valve springs all in all.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/BP5.jpg

This one below is the second generation design of the tool above. Model YA9140B.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=80816&group_ID=1575&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Very good valve spring tool specially when doing Double Overhead Cam (DOHC) engines. Easy and convenient to use. I believe one member here was looking for a Valve Spring Tool before.

The same design is available at Panda under the Lota Brand. It is way much much cheaper than this Blue Point version.

[JayL]

Current workshop WIP. Cylinder Head rebuild. Honda PEWD7 DOHC engine.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/1-2.jpg

This surplus food cart below I converted / refitted for use as a Service Cart. I checked the market for a reasonably priced cart with acceptable quality but found none that met both criteria. Most probably I'll just DIY weld one together later. Looking for a good build design for now. Any suggestions?

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/2-1.jpg

[JayL]

How often have you heard the word Lost Thread when referring to bolts and bolt holes. Sure sometimes you can use a Tap and Die set to fix these but more often than not this tool is too aggressive that it can cut in new unwanted threads.

The proper tool to fix lost threads is a Rethreading Kit. Used properly it will restore the old threads to original condition.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/kastar-1.jpg


http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=56049&group_ID=1148&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

The OEM (original equipment manufacturer) for Snap On is a US company named Kastar. You can get the same kit cheaper directly from them.

http://www.amazon.com/Kastar-KAS971-Metric-Thread-Restorer/dp/B003QHQEPE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1289658596&sr=8-2

[jarod]

Oh my, oh my! Now I know what "shop" to visit just in case. But I pray I don't get into that situation :D

Kaya pala di kita nakita kanina sir Jay, you're busy rebuilding. Good luck and keep it up!

[JayL]

Oh my, oh my! Now I know what "shop" to visit just in case. But I pray I don't get into that situation :D

Kaya pala di kita nakita kanina sir Jay, you're busy rebuilding. Good luck and keep it up!

Yeah this needs to be finished. Owner needs the ride.

Problem is I want the water pump replaced too since it is in the same vicinity as the timing belt but pump will be available Monday morning pa.

[jarod]

Yup, that would be a good option to do para mas sulit yung baklas.

Does anything need to be resurfaced?

[JayL]

@ Jarod

No resurfacing was required. More often this will be needed for engine damage due to overheating.

Here's a shot with the valves and springs installed already.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/GJ/IMGP1630.jpg

Did you ever wonder why sometimes a car leaks a few months after repairs. One of the sources is an improperly installed oil seal.

Here is a good tool to use to drive oil seals evenly. It has most of the sizes available and could be used to drive bushings and bearings too.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/GJ/sobd2.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/GJ/sobd1.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/GJ/IMGP1631.jpg

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=11937&PartNo=A257&group_id=1603&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

I purchased this mainly because I have plans to work on automatic transmissions.

[bryant77]

@ Jarod

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/GJ/IMGP1630.jpg



JayL,

Ano ginagamit mo panglinis ng engine internal? Parang brand new cylinder head (fresh na fresh)

[JayL]

Gasoline spray wash and scrapping, lacquer thinner brushing, Joy soap + water power spraying, then Simple Green Max, Water power washing and lots of water rinsing using normal hose. Finally Air Drying

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/sg.jpg

[JayL]

Equally as important as having proper and good tools is the availability of technical information about the task at hand. My WIP is a 98-99 CRV and this is my reference. Since I don't do this everyday I don't know most of the settings by heart. Some information available are :

Specifications
Clearances
Torque Settings
Installation Sequences
and other stuff needed to make proper repairs

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/9-3.jpg

http://www.haynes.com/products/productID/201

The Cylinder Head bolts installation. Two step process . Torque to 22 ft-lb using a predefined criss cross pattern then final toque to 63 ft-lb.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/1-15.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/2-14.jpg

[JayL]

Replacing Camshaft Oil Seals.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/3-12.jpg

Replaced Water Pump.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/5-5.jpg

Replaced Crankshaft Oil Seal.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/4-7.jpg

Dual Overhead Cams and Timing Belt Installed.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/7-3.jpg

[jarod]

Wow, great repair process and what a sweet torque wrench :D

[JayL]

Cylinder Compression Test. Right on the money for CRV specs - Minimum 135 PSI.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/CT2.jpg

Two times engine crank reading. At the recommended 4th puff it will go to 175 PSI.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/CT1.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/c2.jpg

[JayL]

I decided to replace the Oil Pan Gasket because there was a leak. This is a good DIY task if your vehicle is leaking oil here. Honda Oil Pan bolts torque at 86 in-lb.


http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/OP1.jpg

Took around 15 mins to drop it down using air tools.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/OP2.jpg

The basic plywood creeper I made from scrap. Sometimes it's better than the plastic ones sold at stores ( with wheels ) specially when you need low clearance and something that does not move. I might even paint it red.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/OP3.jpg

I tried many gasket makers before for engine oil pan gasket sealing but found this brand to work quite well. Easy to spread and does not dry quick enough which is better for this purpose.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/OP5.jpg

[JayL]

I also upgraded my used oil catch basin from the old caserola to a new plastic one. Lota brand sold at Panda. Much more convenient and less messy to use. :)

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy Handyman/OP4.jpg

[jarod]

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/CT2.jpg

Compression test! Woot woot! Nice sealing, 135!

I'm curious how my B6 would perform on a dry and wet one.

[JayL]

@Jarod

Why do you think there is a problem with your engine?

[ossie]

@JayL,
pwede ba akong mag OJT dyan o assistant? hehehe :D

[JayL]

@JayL,
pwede ba akong mag OJT dyan o assistant? hehehe :D

Ikaw pa. Manager ka kaagad dito. :)

How is the ratchet?

[ossie]

hahaha ikaw ang manager ko, kasi OJT or assistant lang inaapplayan ko e hehe kasi im totally zero knowledge sa automotive hehe and im on leave sa work every thursday and friday to consume (kahit nasa bahay lang hehe) til the end of this year.

ratchet? ang ganda! parang ayaw gamitin ng utol ko kasi baka magasgas hehe

[jarod]

@Jarod

Why do you think there is a problem with your engine?

None, I was just curious on how each cylinder would perform relative to the others with given it's already a 13 y.o. engine.

[JayL]

None, I was just curious on how each cylinder would perform relative to the others with given it's already a 13 y.o. engine.

Yeah better do this on the next tune up. It could tell a lot of things just like when one goes to the doctor for checkup which is actually good but sometimes bad for the wallet. ( when you suddenly are made aware the things needed to be taken care of) :)

It's been a habit already for me. I do compression testing during tuneup (plug replacement ).

I need a better way to take off crank pulleys on some Honda vehicles. There are two tool choices.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000TMLWQ/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

or this

http://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Rand-2135TiMAX-2-Inch-Impact-Wrench/dp/B000WMN2GU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1291014037&sr=1-1 http://www.pinoyhandyman.com/images/icons/icon10.gif Aray ko sakit sa bulsa but 780 lb-ft max power.

[JayL]

Some more wrenches

Angle Wrenches - good for situations where obstruction is an issue

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/a.jpg

Flare wrenches - Snap On makes the best ( these don't spread and round off brake line nuts etc.. )

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/c.jpg

Double Box

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/b.jpg

[JayL]

Impact Swivel Sockets 10 ~ 19 mm @ 1/2" drive

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/1s.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/2s.jpg

[JayL]

Honda car enthusiast here might be interested in these. I just ordered the references and tool below.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/HonaBook.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/HaynesBook.jpg

Crankshaft pulley bolt removal tool.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/CrankshaftBolt.jpg

[JayL]

Here's a good tool to have in the shop. I have several of this in varying cord lengths which I use mostly for automotive work. Probably the newer LED designs are better but this type is cheap and so is bulb replacement. It works well as intended.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1736.jpg

Make sure to get one with a magnet. This feature comes in handy often.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1737.jpg

[JayL]

Here are some good DIY auto maintenance videos from Eric The Car Guy.

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/videos/

[jarod]

+1 This guys explains it well and he's not boring to watch!

I'm really not fond of expertvillage videos, aside from the very robotic speech, the person teaching seems to be bored as well :D

[spyghost]

Has anyone ever watched "... is Born" series of Discovery? It's about the veterinarian petrol head who loves cars, motorcycles, and aircrafts. He restores and does things from scratch

[jarod]

^Oh yes, that's Veterinarian Mark Evans (http://www.markevans.co.uk/mark-evans-television-engineering.php). I love his humour with "Pete Mate" his video man :D

Funny and educational stuff!


(http://www.markevans.co.uk/mark-evans-television-engineering.php)

[JayL]

Here's a good cheap Slider Bar. Unior 3/8" drive. Makes a good T-Handle if you have extensions.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/GJ/IMGP1761.jpg

[jarod]

Jay, My friend is looking for a cheap but reliable racket/socket set (how do you correctly term it) that is locally available. He is actually borrowing from me since he know that I get to tinker on cars but unfortunately I don't have one as well.

I saw Toptul from the last PhilConstruct which offers sets from 1,900 (SRP 2,500) and above. Taiwan made but the feel is really good. I tried asking how much for a micrometer tension wrench and I almost dropped on the floor when I heard the price. Honestly, I couldn't anymore remember the price due to the shock. I never knew that a 3/8" tension wrench would cost that much, how much more for a 1/2" drive one!

[JayL]

I got both of these sets for Autospeed shop.

Aigo 10-32mm 12 point 1/2" Drive Socket Wrench Set ( Japan ) - 2,870 at LYS

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1934.jpg

Toptul 6 point 1/2" Drive Set ( Taiwan ) - 3,100 at New Triump

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1958.jpg

Check the Stanley set too. Owyn seems to have a favorable feedback on the 1/2" drive set.

Is he looking for a 1/2" drive set or 3/8" drive set?

[jarod]

Knowing the guy, he won't really have an idea thus he prolly wants a set to begin with. Even if most would advise to get a 1/2" drive, the sockets on the set would suffice for basic car work.

Taking this chance, would the bar tension wrenches be accurate enough? I asked since the micrometer version are too impractical for for its price just for a few actual usage. The thing I just don't want about is it's enormous size :D

[JayL]

Knowing the guy, he won't really have an idea thus he prolly wants a set to begin with. Even if most would advise to get a 1/2" drive, the sockets on the set would suffice for basic car work.

Taking this chance, would the bar tension wrenches be accurate enough? I asked since the micrometer version are too impractical for for its price just for a few actual usage. The thing I just don't want about is it's enormous size :D

If it's just DIY I suggest he gets the 3/8' drive socket wrench set. If he wants to do suspension work then he's better off stepping up to 1/2" drive.

Are you talking about a torque wrench like this?

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Vtech-Day-7-04-09-2009.jpg

If yes then there are some KD Tools ( USA ) available somewhere in T. Alonzo for around 1.5K or less. 3/8" drive probably up to 150 ft-lb max torque. For me I like these old school Torque Wrenches except that you've got to have a line of sight on the pointer to get proper reading.

[jarod]

Okies, all noted. Thanks again Jay!

[JayL]

Here's a good tool for engine diagnostics. It's new to us and will take some time to really get used to it. I consider diagnostic tools to be a good investment as it helps narrow down or pinpoint engine related problems. It's like a step away from the " Shoot now and ask questions later" approach.

Vacuum Gauge

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/GJ/v1.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/GJ/v3.jpg

[jarod]

Is that the one that you could use for pressure hold-ups in the radiator and fuel modules?

[JayL]

Is that the one that you could use for pressure hold-ups in the radiator and fuel modules?

No. This one is for the purpose below.

Gauge reads 0 to 30" mercury (0 to 76 cm). Tester supplies an outside vacuum source for checking vacuum-operated devices: carburetors, EGRs, EPRs, heaters, air-conditioning systems, etc. Includes metal cone, rubber cone, and 2' hose.

https://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/parts/pro_det.asp?Item_id=11107&group_ID=9816

Here's a good tool to clean spark plug innards. Uses compressed air and blasting sand.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1746.jpg

[JayL]

SK ratchets. Fine ratcheting at 72 teeth. 1/4" & 3/8" drive. The bent handle is useful for brake jobs.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/GJ/IMGP1770.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/GJ/IMGP1772.jpg

[timber715]

here is a good Bacho/Snap-on set at a good discount... 3/8"set (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=27098&utm_source=NL&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=V1922)

[JayL]

here is a good Bacho/Snap-on set at a good discount... 3/8"set (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=27098&utm_source=NL&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=V1922)

If it was metric it would have been an excellent deal for us here.

[JayL]

Fender Covers turned garage decors for now till I find the some good tool banners.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/banner.jpg

Basta me ma post lang to keep the forum alive. Post naman kayo mga pics bros sa mga threads natin.

[jarod]

Here's a good tool to clean spark plug innards. Uses compressed air and blasting sand.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1746.jpg


SK ratchets. Fine ratcheting at 72 teeth. 1/4" & 3/8" drive. The bent handle is useful for brake jobs.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/GJ/IMGP1770.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/GJ/IMGP1772.jpg
Nice and rare tools as usual! :cool:

If it was metric it would have been an excellent deal for us here.
+1

I like the fenders covers, parang hindi nagagamit =p Most shops that I see using that have very poorly maintained ones, sayang lang yun original use nya yung magagasgas or madudumihan lang din naman yun fenders.

[JayL]

My last tool acquisitions for this year.

Snap On FR936 Quick Release 3/8" drive ratchet.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/GJ/r0-1.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/GJ/r3.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/GJ/r2.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/GJ/r4.jpg

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=67465&PartNo=FR936&group_id=12898&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

@Timb .. which model is your Snap ON 3/8" drive ratchet? Is it an F936 ( w/o the quick release )?

[JayL]

This one is a useful tool. A wobble extension set. It gives up to 16 degrees of slant in order to avoid wrenching obstructions. 1/4" drive.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/GJ/w3.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/GJ/w5.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/GJ/w4.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/GJ/w6.jpg

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=54299&PartNo=106TMXW&group_id=19775&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

Merry Christmas to ALL.

[JayL]

@Timb,

If ever you have spare time can you please post some pics of your 3/8" drive SO ratchet. The FR936 I got has a cover that does not seem to be 100% flush with the ratchet body ( angat konti sa me bandang ulo ) . I wonder if I should open it up to check plus lube it. The ratchet works fine and the gearing smooth and except for this small detail all is fine with it. I just wonder if it's really like that.

Thanks

[JayL]

Snap On Roll Pin Punch Set

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1217.jpg

used to drive roll pins out

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/PRO-RollPin.jpg

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=86582&group_ID=1031&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

[JayL]

Some more wrenches

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/1-3.jpg

Snap On Short Combination Wrench Set 10-19mm (http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=131&group_ID=524&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog)

Snap On Midget Combination Wrench Set 10-19mm
(http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=&item_ID=200&group_ID=529&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog)
http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/3-1.jpg

Snap On 3/8" Drive Crowfoot Wrench Set 9-18mm (http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=&item_ID=83044&group_ID=266&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog)

[JayL]

Clean and Lube your ratchets once in a while to get better ratcheting action. Just be careful when opening it up as springs can fly out and get lost.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1811.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1812.jpg

Sometimes I use Lithium grease or ATF depending on the ratchet's tooth count.

However I will order some good lubricants later.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037QG4BS/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&m=A3SKJE188CW5XG

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBNVSK/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

[JayL]

I sold my Craftsman 1/2" Drive Air Impact Wrench so I need a replacement. This time I decided that I would go for an Ingersoll Rand.

There are very good priced IR 1/2" drive impact wrenches that suits my budget. However there are differences too. One of the main concern is type of material used in the gun's construction. Metal is one and the newer models use composite. My question is how good is composite technology now. We know for a fact that it's lighter but does it mean durability is sacrificed.

Below are the guns I'm choosing from. Power and sound is almost the same except for the weight. The composite is less than a kilo compared to the metal one.

The tried and tested industry standard IR231C. A 25 years old design still considered to be one of the most durable in the industry.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IR231C.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRM3I/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

A newer generation composite model. Still few reviews available.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IR2130.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UNR6W/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

If in my position would you go for extra weight in exchange for a robust gun or go light weight composite but less durability?

Other better impact guns available in the market but are not within my budget. ( i.e IR Titanium models )

[moji]

I would go for the older model still..its already tried and tested..and you can't beat metal for the housing.

[JayL]

I would go for the older model still..its already tried and tested..and you can't beat metal for the housing.

Thinking about it too cause most of the time the Mechanics are the one using it. If ever I use it's only occasionally.

Better to get the metal one first and probably an IR Titanium gun later for personal use when budget becomes loose (dreaming) .

None the less I still have a smaller and lighter Snap On IM31 3/8" impact wrench if I needed something easier to swing.

Ordering the IR231C now. Thank you Moji. I was on the brink already for the 231C but needed a small push. It's cheaper too. Go go go.

Ordered this as well. I believe you have one yourself.

http://www.amazon.com/GoodYear-8-Inch-50-Feet-Safety-50-Feet/dp/B0000225E0/ref=pd_ecc_rvi_cart_1

[moji]

Ah yes, that's what i have. Its a good choice for a hose.

[jarod]

I have not much experience with air tools aside from my uncle's Milwaukee but I think the glossy metal one's appearance and structure is good enough to win over the composite one. Not sure if that already uses polymer materials but for me, the classic look beats it already.

Call it old school but sometimes, there are things that seems to give you more satisfaction due to it's feel or appearance and prestige.

Note: Your Mileage May Vary :D

[timber715]

the only difference I see in the construction is how much you will be using it. weight is always a factor when you have to use them a lot... I reckon this will be your personal tool and will be cared for properly, so being light could be a plus for old people... :p:p:p

[john-jo]

the only difference i see in the construction is how much you will be using it. Weight is always a factor when you have to use them a lot... I reckon this will be your personal tool and will be cared for properly, so being light could be a plus for old people... :p:p:p

arrrayyy ko...

more matured users, not ...old people. LOL

[JayL]

the only difference I see in the construction is how much you will be using it. weight is always a factor when you have to use them a lot... I reckon this will be your personal tool and will be cared for properly, so being light could be a plus for old people... :p:p:p

Yeah I gave the weight some serious thought too which is very important. However since this will not be a personal use only tool ( mechanics will also use this in my garage ) I decided to go for durability instead.

None the less there's a new IR Hybrid Ratchet /Impact type wrench that has just been released and am waiting for the price to come down. This is what I will get for myself. It's called a Hammer Head and is much more versatile than the gun types.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003V9P6W4/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&m=A8Y9N35ANEOVV

http://www.coptool.com/blog/2010/06/ingersoll_rand_hammerhead_air.html


http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/Hmmerhead.jpg

[jarod]

the only difference I see in the construction is how much you will be using it. weight is always a factor when you have to use them a lot... I reckon this will be your personal tool and will be cared for properly, so being light could be a plus for old people... :p:p:p

Amen to that but come to think of it, the air impact wrench is just used on very short bursts and only less than 5% of the whole automotive repair time as it only gets into action in disassembly and assembly.

So I guess the weight factor would still be justified by the strength, appearance and by the cheaper price of the metal version. The hybrid version is also great specially in the tight spots in the engine bay

I still do think that Ninong Jay is still machow enough when the going gets tough

[JayL]

The impact is a great tool for dis assembly specially if faced with stubborn fasteners. However for assembly I as much as possible refrain from using it since it can easily strip or snap fasteners unless one is careful. I prefer an air ratchet for assembly

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1816.jpg

if not the old school spinner handles.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1817.jpg

[JayL]

Radiator / Intercooler Bent Fins Pliers

We're tired using small screw drivers to straighten out bent fins. How about some Fin Pliers? I found this one below but it's always better to ask for more options.

http://www.eastwood.com/radiator-pli...-rake-kit.html (http://www.eastwood.com/radiator-pliers-and-fin-rake-kit.html)

I also thought about grinding a cheap pair of pliers but it's always good to get the proper set of tools. This intercooler is from an Isuzu trooper and needs to be done to look like new if possible.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1818-1.jpg

It would be better if it's a local purchase. I know some Japanese made ones are available but don't know where to find locally. Maybe our resident tool dealers can help too.

Even a radiator comb if available.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/0908sr_03_zgraham_tool_companyradiator_comb.jpg

[jarod]

How about a DIY version from a coarse tooth human comb for the mean time as a preliminary fix then followed by the right tools for finishing :D

[JayL]

V-Belt and Alternator Belt Change for me.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1824.jpg

Good DIY practice for beginners.

The V-belt is at the end of it's service life.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/b1.jpg

Needs only a 12mm ( alternator belt ) and a 14 mm ( V-Belt ) socket / wrench to pull the job.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/t1.jpg

Some YouTube videos as reference.

Alternator Belt (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oum67DYSaEQ)

V-Belt ( serpentine belt ) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zySquzvCrlg)

[JayL]

Just make sure the belts are tensioned correctly. If it's too loose it will squeak or slip. If too tight it would not be good for the bearings.

Job done now.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1837.jpg

Oil and Spark Plugs changed also but still need to replace the Fuel Filter.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1838.jpg

[shampooking]

Radiator / Intercooler Bent Fins Pliers

We're tired using small screw drivers to straighten out bent fins. How about some Fin Pliers? I found this one below but it's always better to ask for more options.

http://www.eastwood.com/radiator-pli...-rake-kit.html (http://www.eastwood.com/radiator-pliers-and-fin-rake-kit.html)

I also thought about grinding a cheap pair of pliers but it's always good to get the proper set of tools. This intercooler is from an Isuzu trooper and needs to be done to look like new if possible.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1818-1.jpg

It would be better if it's a local purchase. I know some Japanese made ones are available but don't know where to find locally. Maybe our resident tool dealers can help too.

Even a radiator comb if available.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/0908sr_03_zgraham_tool_companyradiator_comb.jpg

there's an aircon supply shop in banawe (northside) that sells these, but i forgot the name of the shop. i tried the other aircon supply shops but to no avail. :(

[JayL]

Thanks bro. I'll check some out next time I'm in Banawe.

Was just checking out the newer Battery Powered Impact Drivers and tools for automotive use. With the type of torque and battery life these tools can deliver probably it's only a matter of time now before these overtake air tools as primary work horses. Truth be told a cordless tool is more convenient to use.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=yes&tool=power&item_ID=89671&group_ID=24645&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

http://www.ingersollrandproducts.com/IS/category_nolinks.aspx-am_en-21016

[JayL]

I'm having engine vibrations on the passenger side. I need to change the left side engine support this weekend if I can get parts tomorrow.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1862.jpg

[JayL]

No engine support available till next week so job postponed.

It turned out to be car buffing day.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1869.jpg

Carbon Fiber Hood hand sanded with 1500 grit . Are there 2000 to 2500 grit sandpaper available?

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1871-1.jpg

First passes using Circular polisher to remove sanding marks

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1874-1.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1875.jpg

[JayL]

Meguiar's Step 2 will take out the luster but also the swirl marks caused by the Circular Polisher. Here we use a Random Orbital Polisher for ease of use.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1881-1.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1879.jpg

Lake Country Pads

Orange for removing scratches and the Black for final polishing.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1880.jpg

We do have a somewhat badly weather and engine heat beat up carbon fiber hood here. Worst comes to worst it will have to be re sprayed with Clear Coat in the near future.

Look at the trunk ... the glaze is all gone.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1883-1.jpg

[JayL]

Getting there but we came to the conclusion that a re spray of clear coat is inevitable.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1887.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1886.jpg

Trunk was easier to buff. Only 2 steps. This is because it is not subjected to engine heat like the hood. Carbon Fiber is difficult to maintain. If not only for car weight reduction purposes we would have preferred the metal one.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1888.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1889.jpg

Thanks for viewing and I hope others can chime in with their detailing experiences as well.

[JayL]

Looks like I can change the engine support of my GSR tomorrow. I found a replacement part now ....

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1891.jpg

For those not wanting to purchase Original Parts for their cars ( for whatever reason ) then JAC Brand is a good replacement alternative for rubber products like engine support.

To give a price comparison the original will cost me 3,200 pesos while this Jac replacement is 950 pesos.

[john-jo]

Grabeng ganda naman.... I'm lost for words.

You're the Man Sir JayL !

Tumatanggap ba kayo ng enrollees?? :)

[JayL]

Thanks Sir john_jo.

Sana me mag pa seminar ng DIY car care products din dito. Kaya lang konti lang yata members interested sa PHM. Malamang sa mga car forums sila naka base.

Nakakangawit lang mag polish. Hood pa lang at trunk. Lalo na kung buong car.

[JayL]

I usually post car WIPs in car forums but I'll post some here. Maybe some members also have Lancer cars. For a fact I know that we have one member here who is a Lancer specialist - SpyGhost.

Got chance to work on the car today and replaced passenger side engine support.

Some 3/4" plywood and a jack to support the engine via the oil pan. This will also be useful later in slightly raising or lowering the engine as needed in order to align the center bolt.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/1-4.jpg

Removed the bolts of power steering fluid reservoir brackets to gain clearance to fit a 3/8" impact wrench.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/2-2.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/3-2.jpg

19mm Center nut came off easily.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/4.jpg

[JayL]

Removed the 2 pcs 14mm nuts and 1 pc 14mm bolt fastening the engine support to the engine.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/5.jpg

Slight hammer pressure to push the center bolt out.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/6.jpg

A pair of long handled bent long nose pliers was handy to completely wiggle the center bolt out.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/7.jpg

[JayL]

The old support looks physically fine. No cracks whatsoever.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/8.jpg

However upon closer inspection the bump stops were shot up. As I suspected before, the OEM engine support had fluid filled bump stops. The lining on this rubber part wore out, fluid escaped and made the bump stops soft. It was what was causing the severe engine vibration.

Look at the OEM engine support below. Bump stops so soft.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/9.jpg

In comparison the replacement JAC engine support had solid rubber bump stops.

Installation is just the reverse process now.

Anti sieze compound is good for bolts , nuts and other parts prior to re installation.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/10.jpg

[JayL]

A Drift Punch is a good tool to align the center holes for the bolt installation.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/11.jpg

Torqued all bolts and nuts according to the values given by SpyGhost.

the 10mm bolts are 9ft-lbs
the 3 bolts or nuts conneting to the engine are 42 ft lbs
the large bolt is 72 ft lbs

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/13.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/14.jpg

[JayL]

Don't forget to connect back the ground wire in order to avoid AC related problems. This is for the AC cooling fan. If not reconnected the compressor will build up high pressure and the freon check valve will burst.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1916.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/17.jpg

All is well now. Car engine vibration was gone and the car is back on the road again.

[JayL]

Good advise is if you change engine supports then better to change these all in one time.

Here are some more random pics.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/g.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/e.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/f.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/d.jpg

[JayL]

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/c.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/A.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/h.jpg

[JayL]

Workshop WIP for the day. Isuzu Trooper Turbo 3.0L. Valve Cover leak , Major Tuneup and Change Oil Fluids.

Our poging mechanic ... came to my garage today for this job. Diesel Tech.

View from my office .... I could watch whats happening even while online.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/1-17.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/2-16.jpg

Dapat pala nag pcs din ako kanina nung madumi pa ito. Grabe.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/3-13.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/5-6.jpg

[ossie]

hangsarap talaga magbutingting hehehe

PHM - we butingting everything :D

[JayL]

hangsarap talaga magbutingting hehehe

PHM - we butingting everything :D

Ako out na kung Diesel Engine butingting ... masyado madumi.

[ossie]

heheehe nariyan naman ang mga mekaniko mo e :)

Ako out na kung Diesel Engine butingting ... masyado madumi.

[JayL]

Ubos na stock ko ng saw dust. The best talaga pang higop ng langis sa flooring.

Ngahahanap nga ako ng surplus na metal tool box para sa mga ibang tools pero walang makita. Baka gumawa na lang ako ng plywood toolbox, me saw dust pa. Walang sayang. Heheheheh

[ossie]

yun ba maganda panghigop? wow added knowledge hehe
page mo mga woodworkers natin, malamang bibigyan ka nila kahit kalahating sako :D sa eb nila dalhin hahahaha

[JayL]

yun ba maganda panghigop? wow added knowledge hehe
page mo mga woodworkers natin, malamang bibigyan ka nila kahit kalahating sako :D sa eb nila dalhin hahahaha

Hahahaha ....... doon ke Timber tignan ko sa EB. Sana maka punta ka saka si John-jo para sa metal works representation.

[ossie]

pag wala ka makuhang saw dust, mag tabas ka ng mga kahoy nya para meron kang maiuwi hehe dadalhin ni ryobi yung ADH nya kaso hindi ma tetest kasi walang welding machine, magdadala ka? :D hahaha

will see on fri if i can go to our eb, sana....

[JayL]

pag wala ka makuhang saw dust, mag tabas ka ng mga kahoy nya para meron kang maiuwi hehe dadalhin ni ryobi yung ADH nya kaso hindi ma tetest kasi walang welding machine, magdadala ka? :D hahaha

will see on fri if i can go to our eb, sana....

baka walang saksakan doon unless directa sa breaker box. tignan natin ano sabihin ni Sir Timber. kung ok magdala ka ng scrap. wala akong mga bakal.

[moji]

@Jay,

Di ba delikado gamitin yung saw dust pang higop ng langis kasi flammable din yun? Di ba effective ang cement?

[JayL]

OK lang naman so far. I have metal container to store it then bag it next day for garbage collection. Guess they could use it for fuel because garbage man loves collecting it as well as used oil.

[JayL]

No new tool purchases. :( Funds diverted to purchasing car parts / upgrades.

Spoon Sports Adjustable Cam Gears

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1950.jpg

Spoon Sports Steel braided high tension wires

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1952.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1953.jpg

Spoon Sports is a Honda Tuning Company. Makes a lot of aftermarket parts and products for Honda cars only. These are what we buy for our Honda EK ( SiR ) . Exhaust system, engine upgrades, suspension upgrades, accessories etc..

http://www.spoon.jp/

[JayL]

Here's a resonably priced Craftsman hammer with interchangeable heads. Good balance and Made in USA to boot.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1976.jpg

Soft face hammer with a fiberglass handle that's 12-1/2 in. long. Includes composite face tips - for all types of non-marring applications. 1 in. Dia. tip with brown soft face, for use with delicate surfaces; 1 in. Dia. Tip with red medium face, for use with soft to medium surfaces; 1 in. Dia. tip with black hard face, for durable surfaces; and 1 in. Dia. tip with yellow extra-hard face, for use on hard surfaces.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00938388000P?prdNo=5&blockNo=5&blockType=G5

[jarod]

[QUOTE=JayL;14005]No new tool purchases. :( Funds diverted to purchasing car parts / upgrades.
http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1952.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1953.jpg
/QUOTE]

Wow, that's what I like with Honda, infinite tuning capabilities! Easier to find aftermarket kits as well!

[JayL]

True Jarod. Honda after market parts and accessories are widely available locally and abroad.

For several months now I had been chasing a surplus rear strut bar for my Mitsu GSR in Evangelista. Until now I did not find one yet. If it was a Honda I would have found one the first day I went there.

[JayL]

Installed the Spoon High Tension wires. These might be a bit more durable than the OEM ones because of the steel braided reinforcement on the wires. However aside from that 99% it's purely for looks. The OEM ones are as good as these aftermarket wires, performance wise.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1983.jpg

[JayL]

Here's an effective way to degrease engines. Mix some Simple Green Max and kerosene and spray it on the engine. Let it be still for a while then power wash. For dirtier engines a second pass would remove most of the gunk.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1997.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP1994.jpg

A clean engine will give better Power and Fuel Economy not to mention longer engine life and less breakdowns.

An Air Compressor is one of the best investments a DIY person can make. It can be used for woodworking, auto working, painting, simple cleaning, and countless other uses. I don't know how I'll be able to perform most of these tasks now without one .

[jonathanscruz68]

ang linis! ang lakas ng appeal ng kotse pag super linis ng engine bay, kerosene lang ginagamit ko for engine cleaning, thanks for the sound advice, thanks jayL, ang daming matutunan about automotives dito sa thread na to, go go go jayL!!!

[moji]

Parang bago yung engine bay ah..spotless! Where did you get your engine sprayer? Some of those i see have smaller cups than those..

[JayL]

@ Jonathan

Thanks bro. Sometimes it needs some experimenting to get what works better. For too much engine gunk kerosene alone will not cut it.

@ Moji

That sprayer gun kit is available in LYS for around 675 pesos. The brand is GAV and is made in Italy. Since you have a compressor you can do the engine washing yourself. Do you have a power washer?

Trevino brand Power Washer is available at Best Achievers in Binondo for roughly 3,500 pesos. Good investment too. Engine car washing cost 250 pesos. Under chasis another 250 pesos. Lots of savings if you choose to DIY and you can do this as frequent as your vehicle requires and at your most convenient time.

[moji]

Thanks for the info..I don't have a power washer still..I heard our favorite tool brand here will be releasing one sometime soon. The thing is i don't know what parts to cover when doing engine washing..

[JayL]

Thanks for the info..I don't have a power washer still..I heard our favorite tool brand here will be releasing one sometime soon. The thing is i don't know what parts to cover when doing engine washing..

Frankly speaking on my GSR I cover only my air filter since it is aftermarket and exposed. Some people cover the alternator too. That's it.

Just blow dry everything with compressed air after the wash. Let the engine stand still for a while then start it.

( I forgot pwede din sabunin with joy soap and foam / rag ang engine to make it cleaner before wash out ). kung ano lang maabot kasi masikip din.

[moji]

Oh simple lang pala...;)

[timber715]

kung ano lang maabot kasi masikip din.
Oh simple lang pala...;)

basta masikip maabot ni moji yan... sanay eh...:D

[JayL]

basta masikip maabot ni moji yan... sanay eh...:D

Hahahhahaha

Moji Go Go Go na sa power washer. You'll get better resale value for your car later if it's well maintained. Buyers know a regularly cleaned engine bay as opposed to one recently cleaned because it's being sold.

My 3,500 pesos power washer has paid for itself over and over again for the last 3 years. Car and household cleaning chores etc.....

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1126-1.jpg

My Karcher did'nt even last 2 years ( leaking cylinder head - dealer wants 6-7.5K to repair it ). Buti pa yung China na Trevino 3 years na going strong pa rin. Change oil lang katapat.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1127-1.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP1128.jpg

Secret to operate a power washer is : When you depress the trigger keep it running. No problem if it's 30 mins as long as it runs continously. Wag yung stop and go , stop and go. Doon masisira unit. If you want to stop it then keep the trigger depressed then power down the switch first to relieve pressure.

[moji]

tsk tsk lagi nalang pinapasa sakin ni Timb un mga hilig niya :p

Maybe by next month pa ko magkakabudget for a power washer..
Doesn't the Simple green affect the rubber and plastic parts of the engine?

[JayL]

I don't think so. Just don't let it dry that much and wash it off at the right time. I had concerns before that it might affect aluminum but so far the results I got says otherwise.

[jarod]

Moji, Sabay lang tayo mag-pa-engine wash kay Ninong Jay para makita natin hands-on kung paano yung tamang proseso ;)

PS: Your car would love a new set of engine supports, kahit di daw sa amazon bilhin ok na :D

[moji]

Oo, pa turo na din tayo mangalikot ng auto kay Jay..(magaling din pla mangalikot si timb :p)

Wala kasi ako alam sa auto kaya di ko alam un mga kailangan palitan eh..

[jarod]

Oo, pa turo na din tayo mangalikot ng auto kay Jay..(magaling din pla mangalikot si timb :p)

Wala kasi ako alam sa auto kaya di ko alam un mga kailangan palitan eh..
Oo naman, magaling din yang tito ko! Kahit sa chic....este auto maraming alam yan! :D

Ninong Jay, 2 na naka-pila sa ultimate carwash mo ha! :p

[JayL]

Moji, Sabay lang tayo mag-pa-engine wash kay Ninong Jay para makita natin hands-on kung paano yung tamang proseso ;)

PS: Your car would love a new set of engine supports, kahit di daw sa amazon bilhin ok na :D

Sige minsa pag tripan natin.

[JayL]

Jarod

I already got a new timing light. It did not have all the bells and whistles I wanted like RPM indicator but it will serve my intended purpose for what capabilities it has.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP2043.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP2044.jpg

This is the feature I wanted most. Ability to do advance timing more precisely.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP2046.jpg

Detachable chords. Not a must actually but can be convenient when storing the tool.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP2048.jpg

This unit's OEM is Actron.

[moji]

I like how the timing light looks like..60's sci fi with analog knob and all!

[JayL]

I like how the timing light looks like..60's sci fi with analog knob and all!

Mukhang mas matibay ang case kesa sa mga China made na plastic na.

Actron USA made pa ito before they outsourced to China.

Craftsman has two product lines. Craftsman and the Craftsman Professional. The latter is always the better choice.

[jarod]

Nice timing light, I think the shell branch near my place also uses craftsman but it seems to be shorter than the one you got.

Where did you get it and how much?

[JayL]

It's a local purchase. Got it for a bit more than what you ask for your Actron.

It was the advance feature I'm after. Actually with this feature I can set the advance timing in corresponding degrees and still use the default factory mark on the engine and pulley. The timing light will take care of it instead of me relying on the graduated engine markers . Much more accurate.

[jarod]

Yep, that would be easier to use since the dial is already located on the gun and all you have to look is for the line to line up with the TDC marker with the advance timing set on the dial of the gun.

[timber715]

mahirap yata makita yung offset compared to the TDC mark. lalo na kung medyo malabo na yung mata :D

[JayL]

mahirap yata makita yung offset compared to the TDC mark. lalo na kung medyo malabo na yung mata :D

Hehehehe :)

[jarod]

@Jay, Nakuha na today yung timing light. Problem is yung girlfriend and kumuha, iba pala kapag girl ang buyer makilatis and malaki possibility na mag-ask ng extra. Bigla tuloy nagkaroon ng warranty. Ayoko na ng ganun sa susunod mahirap tanggihan :D

[timber715]

that is one reason why I don't mind having my boss join me when buying tools :D

[JayL]

@Jay, Nakuha na today yung timing light. Problem is yung girlfriend and kumuha, iba pala kapag girl ang buyer makilatis and malaki possibility na mag-ask ng extra. Bigla tuloy nagkaroon ng warranty. Ayoko na ng ganun sa susunod mahirap tanggihan :D

Hahhahhahah

Jarod

I found this surplus Rear Sway Bar for the Honda SiR. Will repaint it and make it look new. It would be better sana kung Powder Coated but still had no chance to study this and get the tools. I could farm it but would want all work in house as much as
possible.


http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP2069.jpg


http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/Pinoy%20Handyman/IMGP2070.jpg

I will install this when I receive the Energy Suspension Bushing Kit we ordered for the car's entire suspension system. I will post the upgrade suspension WIP then.

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=16.18109

http://www.energysuspension.com/

This will be a lot of bushing work ..... :eek:

As in Sir Timber's favorite - TIGHT TOLERANCE for better build/performance .... if you know what I mean hehhehehe

[JayL]

Two of the most comon engine HP upgrades are Forced Induction ( Supercharger or Turbo ) and Naturally Aspirated or NA as its most commonly referred too.

In NA setup we try to get as much air to the combustion chambers. One way of achieving it is by installing a Cold Air Intake. As we know the cooler the air the more oxygen molecules are in it at a given volume.

We purchased a surplus head lamp, modified it as below so we can upgrade to a Ram type Intake.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/1-18.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/2-17.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/3-14.jpg

We'll later build a box inside to house the filter element and isolate it from engine heat. It will draw cooler air from the outside through the Ram Intake. The faster the car goes the more air it will feed to the filter box via the ram intake.