GMC/ryobi thicknesser

[j2sip]

Where to buy those cheap brandnew or second hand thicknessers from ryobi/GMC? I think i might need one for light thicknessing work. TIA

[bbn]

All of these come from HMR. HMR is actually a group of companies. There is HMR along Pioneer, HMR Auctions along A. Bonifacio and in Dau, Pampanga. Save on Surplus (SOS) is another company in the group. I believe they have a big store in Sucat along the main road. SOS is also in the malls though I've seldom seen them with thickness planers.

HRM also sells to the small surplus shops, "ukay-ukay" style. There is one along the road of the Rain Forest park in Pasig. The one along Ortigas extension is unfortunately no longer there.

There also might be someone in Binondo selling them. I saw a surplus tool shop there last year.

If you can afford it, I think there is one under the Maktec brand selling for less than P20k. Yeah it is a lot more expensive than these Ryobi units but compared to the Makita I was lusting after long ago, which cost P33k, it would be considered a bargain. For sure professional tools are much better.

[j2sip]

The ever-helpful lncc63! Thanks sir! Im going to manila anytime this month. I'll consider the maktek, finances allowing. HMR is my best option. Do they always have stocks available? i cant find them 2nd hand units in their website. I wonder how much do the ryobi/gmc 13inchers costs? I saw some in sulit.com for P5400. Thanks again sir!

more power! Peace..

[bbn]

The price will have vary depending on the store you get them from. P5k is what you can get in the malls if I remember right. HMR does not really stock. They just sell what comes on to the Australian surplus market.

HMR Auction is an auction house. You bid for the items. I used to get a list of items to be auctioned off via e-mail but not anymore since I've not been going there for sometime now. Maybe you can call them and ask them to put you on their e-mail list. I should tell you thought that auctions can be a hit-and-miss proposition though you can get lucky. In fact I got my planer for P2k but only because at that time the auctioneer and other bidders did not know what a thickness planer was, or that these cost A LOT. My first bid was P300.

You might want to consider making a thickness sander instead. Google it and you're sure to find several references and even free plans. These are best for the thin sheets you'll need for giutars. I was actually planning to make one when I lucked on to my planer. This reminds me - you better check a thickness planer can do the thickness you need. I seem to remember 5mm is thinest they'll do but I could be wrong.

[j2sip]

I already built a thickness sander sir. And that was even before I learned to surf the internet for info:)

This reminds me - you better check a thickness planer can do the thickness you need. I seem to remember 5mm is thinest they'll do but I could be wrong.

You are right, sir. But that's for acoustic guitars. I make electric guitars which are solid. For strength and aesthetics, I laminate several different types and colors of woods for the neck and body (I'll try to post some picture of both guitars and the thickness sander someday). That's what I need the thicknesser for. The thickness sander suffices but it takes a lot of practice to operate properly.
I might try the auction thing if "normal purchasing" fails.. Thanks again sir.

Peace..

[bbn]

Hey this is the second time I've heard of someone wanting or making electric guitars. The oher fellow wanted to do it with composites thought (fiberglass/carbon).

Bro please post pics of your thickness sander. I'd most interested. Why do you say it is hard to use?

[bbn]

Here is the thickness sander I have plans for. This plan copyrighted so I can't post the plans themselves but there are quite a few free plans out there, and I don't think one would be really hard to design on one's own.

http://www.workbenchplans.com/plansnow-images/dn3078-main.jpg

By the way, I got them from www.plansnow.com

[j2sip]

When i saw the picture of the thickness sander you are planning to build, it struck me what was lacking in my design. Incidentaly, it also answers your question why was it hard to use!

Notice the handcrank in the bottom of the outfeed table? Judging by its position in the machine, must be some sort of "anti-kickback" in the design, easing the stock past the drum to the outfeed. I nearly got hit by 2 x 1's going 250mph a couple of times because i neglected to hold the stock firmly while i was feeding it to the thicknesser. This problem can be avoided by sanding an mm at a time, though.

BY the way, nice design of a thickness sander sir. The "anti-kickback" feature(if that's what it is) is a must. Goodluck again in building it.

I'll post pictures later sir. I gotta retrieve my lost photobucket password first:)

Cheers!

[bbn]

Ouch bro. I learned my lesson about kickback using a table saw. Notice though the man in the picture is standing at the side. The Ryobi thickness planer also has an anti-kickback device. Like the Ryobi you could also add a fixed "clearance" bar that would prevent you from setting the depth of sanding too deep. My thickness planer won't allow more than a 3 mm (I think) cutting depth.

I've made laminated stock for boat paddles so I can relate though nothing esoteric just pine and tangile. I guess you also have large radius band sander to make those nice curves. This is how sexy paddles are made. I wanted to make one but probably don't have much an artsy drive in me so I never pushed through. I just used a router and my regular belt sander.

Yes please do post pictures when you can.

[j2sip]

Hmmm, perhaps that's the main reason why I'm getting inclined to try a thickness planer - for the total control and preciseness it affords. One thing I'm curious to know, though. Will i be able to join/glue wood coming straight from the thickesser? Or do they still need further planing for them to join seamlessly?

The carved top of a guitar can be made with a router and handtools. Bigname guitar makers use a wide belt of sandpaper that loops overhead. Think of a gigantic belt sander that has the motor/roller at either end. The worker just presses the belt on the workpiece using a sort of rounded tool.

[bbn]

I've not had problems joining pieces straight off the planer. Just make sure to keep it well adjusted if you are planing already jointed wood.

I think we're describing the same belt sanding thing.

[j2sip]

I've not had problems joining pieces straight off the planer. Just make sure to keep it well adjusted if you are planing already jointed wood.
I'm glad to hear that sir. Looks like a thickness planer is what I need, both for its sheer convenience and preciseness.

I think we're describing the same belt sanding thing.
Yes, I think so. Even the the cambered fretboard is made by swinging the neck fretboard-side down on a long belt sander. The distance between the face of the belt sander and the pivot point of the the swinging neck is the radius of the fretboard, which differs from manufacturer to manufacturer. 7 1/2" to 16" usually.

[j2sip]

at last! I'm a proud owner of a new 2nd hand ryobi thickness planer. I still have to test it though. Browsing the web for info about this little machine. Wish me luck.

[timber715]

at last! I'm a proud owner of a new 2nd hand ryobi thickness planer. I still have to test it though. Browsing the web for info about this little machine. Wish me luck.
please post your results, it is always good to find reviews and feedbacks about these machines/tools. and congrats on the new thicknesser...

[bbn]

Congrats bro. Just make sure you don't set the depth of cut too deep. Work to you way to what best suites the wood you are planning. Also, please always unplug the thing when you are not actually using it for whatever reason.

The manual at the GMC site is not very informative but these are more or else the same animal so the manual and procedures of other brands more or less apply. I've not had to replace my blades yet (I've got lots of spares) but I suspect blades of other brands will work too.

[j2sip]

Thanks a lot guys! i'm neck deep in officeworks these past weeks so i havent a chance to try out the thicknesser. It didnt came with any tools. Even the crank for setting depth isnt a crank at all but a makeshift knob that can barely lower/raise the blades. I'll find time to test it next week, hopefully. and believe me, have i got a lot of questions for you, sirs timber and lncc! Thanks again!

Peace!!

[bbn]

Hey no problem bro. I've been pretty busy myself.

For the crank, buy a pipe nipple (short length of pipe) about 1/2" diameter if I remember correctly. Cut the treaded portion off then weld something for a handle, round bar, rebar, or flat bar, 1" flat bar is best. Then make the flat needed by squishing the the pipe nipple so that it will grip the height adjusting rod. You can put a hole through the flat bar if you want to put the retaining bolt. Be careful making the flat, but don't worry it is not really critcal.

I'll take a picture of the blade setting jig which you'll need when you remove the blades for whatever reason. It is just so that the height of a blades edge is the same distance from the cylinder that holds them, across the entire length of the blade.

The blade is held in place by bolts that push the blade against the wall of the groove they fit in. You'll quickly see this when you examine the cutting head. Please unplug the thicknesser before you expose the cutting .... or whenever you are not using it for that matter. Anyway, you'll need a small open wrench to loosen or tighten those bolts. Sorry again I don't know the exact size but my guess it is a 8mm. Regular wrenches might not fit but if that's the case just buy one and grind it down so it will fit.

Ok keep us updated.

[j2sip]

I'll take a picture of the blade setting jig which you'll need when you remove the blades for whatever reason.
Thanks a lot sir. I tested the machine last saturday and i think it has a snipe problem. I'll try a remedy I found in a woodworking forum this weekend.
Peace!

[j2sip]

I'll take a picture of the blade setting jig which you'll need when you remove the blades for whatever reason.
Thanks a lot sir. I tested the machine last saturday and i think it has a snipe problem. I'll try a remedy I found in a woodworking forum this weekend.
Peace!

[ply user]

I got a ryobi planer thicknesser model AP13AK from xmart corp in malabon for 5,500. received it last Monday morning via Philtranco. have not tried it yet but it includes all the accessories. Its just that maybe it was tested in the store kaya yung blade may tumigas na saw dust and have to clean all the mess.

Any reviews about this unit will be greatly appreciated.

thanks

[j2sip]

Good day to all of you guys,

Sorry for bringing up an old post. I took my machine apart this weekend and it seems it's in need of a new set of blades. Do any of you know where to buy new spare blades for this thicknesser?

The blade is held in place by bolts that push the blade against the wall of the groove they fit in. You'll quickly see this when you examine the cutting head. Please unplug the thicknesser before you expose the cutting .... or whenever you are not using it for that matter. Anyway, you'll need a small open wrench to loosen or tighten those bolts. Sorry again I don't know the exact size but my guess it is a 8mm. Regular wrenches might not fit but if that's the case just buy one and grind it down so it will fit.

Better late than never sir bbn:) 8mm is right on the money. I don't have a blade setting jig so I just eyeballed the blade in place. It cuts level naman but it sniped(?) at both ends of the stock. Im sure an MDF bed will fix that, though.

TIA

JordaN

[timber715]

Jordan, I believe the blades of the Makita 2012nb should fit this in case you cannot find a replacement. Maybe someone in sulit carries that item....

[j2sip]

@timber

I certaiinly hope so. Are they the two cutting edge type? I guess I may have to read through the Makita thicknesser thread.


jordan

[timber715]

@timber

I certaiinly hope so. Are they the two cutting edge type? I guess I may have to read through the Makita thicknesser thread.


jordan
Yes, the disposable type is two sided and made of hss(high speed steel)...

[j2sip]

@Timber

The original owner may have gone thru 1 side only as one edge is still shiny when I cleaned it and I also saw a nick or two on the side that's been used. There's also the blade's size (in mm) engraved on 1 side but in my haste I forgot to note it.

If in case this blade's the same size as the Makita's, may I know where to get one and how much? I can't find one in sulit, even from the guy whom I got the thicknesser from.


Thank you.

Jordan

[bigfoot2]

Try the distributor directly, Mayon Construction Supply along Dasmarinas st., Binondo, Manila.

[timber715]

@Timber

The original owner may have gone thru 1 side only as one edge is still shiny when I cleaned it and I also saw a nick or two on the side that's been used. There's also the blade's size (in mm) engraved on 1 side but in my haste I forgot to note it.

If in case this blade's the same size as the Makita's, may I know where to get one and how much? I can't find one in sulit, even from the guy whom I got the thicknesser from.


Thank you.

Jordan
Mayon construction supplies is the distributor of Makita inn the country, located in Dasmarinas st in Binondo, Manila. the blades should set you back around 2.5k to 3.5k I just cant remember the exact figure. :piano:

[guad]

Ignoring the groove on the top side (see pics in that thread (http://www.pinoyhandyman.com/showthread.php?t=703&page=9)), Makita disposable blade for 2012NB is isosceles trapezoidal in cross section:
a = ~4.0 mm
b = 8.0 mm (but my blade is down to 7.7 in the most worn parts, last I checked)
h = 2.0 mm
groove = ~1.5 mm wide, roughly trapezoidal also
length = 305 mm

http://mathworld.wolfram.com/images/eps-gif/IsoscelesTrapezoid_900.gif

Are the Ryobi (or other brand) blades exactly the same in shape (including groove) and dimensions? Would be useful to know interchangeability of brands.

P/N 793346-8, Mayon price P2,780/pr, Amazon ~$38, last I knew.

[j2sip]

@bigfoot and timber,

Thank you. I think I may have seen Mayon when I bought plate aluminum in binondo last year.

guad,

I can't help but put on a brave smile when I saw your illustration. Danger, math ahead:)

Are the Ryobi (or other brand) blades exactly the same in shape (including groove) and dimensions? Would be useful to know interchangeability of brands.

i'll let you know bro in a couple of days time.

Thanks.

JOrdan

[balarila]

Got my Ryobi Thicknesset/Planer at sulit from a seller name Dette Doromal. Very vey happy with it. All the strip planks for my boat-in-progress ran through this machine. Also did a lot of Yakals and it stood up to the torture. I also found the stock settings accurate; I.e., I get 15mm strips when I dial it down to 15mm.

But buying Ryobi's from Sulit, I learned is a hit-or-miss affair. the table saw I got was misaligned and had to sell at a loss. My drill-driver did after a month so I had to get a real sturdy Makita. On the other hand, my drill press and chop saw are behaving ok.
Posted via PHM Mobile

[bbn]

Hi Guys. Nice to see you here too Ding. How your boat coming along?

I'm pretty sure you can find blades in Binondo.

What I'd like to know is where I can get them sharpened. I've been using sandpaper on plate glass but not really that much since most of the wood I plane is soft and when I've did Yakal I went really slow with the feed.

[j2sip]

3k for a pair of blade seems steep for a weekend hobbyist. i have yet to try hard wood(as opposed to hardwood) like kamagong myself.

@bbn

Isn't feed controlled by the machine?

[timber715]

yes, the price is steep, so take care of your blades. knotty wood is one of the reasons for dulling mine besides feeding it with Yakal, Kamagong and other very dense woods. Also be careful when using reclaimed wood, make sure no metal is left on it.

[beedigo]

@j2sip,
I also have a surplus ryobi thicknesser which I got from Dettedoromal, it still works fine for my standards. But since I'm not sure if I can sharpen the blades when they get dull, I ordered this blades in amazon in our On-line 3 in PHM as a reserve;http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00302MWMO
HTH:).

[bbn]

Isn't feed controlled by the machine?

Yes Bro. What I meant is to take less aggressive depth of cut.

Adding to Timber's advice, wood from old houses might be great material but these often have small, and big, rusted nails that are difficult to see. I once chipped a carbide saw blade resawing this nice Yakal post reclaimed from an old house.

[balarila]

@j2sip,
I also have a surplus ryobi thicknesser which I got from Dettedoromal, it still works fine for my standards. But since I'm not sure if I can sharpen the blades when they get dull, I ordered this blades in amazon in our On-line 3 in PHM as a reserve;http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00302MWMO
HTH:).

I have the same spare blades I ordered last year! But I'm not sure if I got the right ones. Did you fit yours already?

[beedigo]

I have the same spare blades I ordered last year! But I'm not sure if I got the right ones. Did you fit yours already?

Hi sir Ding,
I haven't actually fitted them yet, but I just put them beside the original blades and they have almost the same dimensions, except the new ones are thinner.

[balarila]

Hi Guys. Nice to see you here too Ding. How your boat coming along?

Boat's coming along fine, Louis. Strip planks are about halfway done. But I noticed there were some gaps between some strips. So I'm now using a Dremel multitool to slit through the gaps (sort of roughening up the insides), then brushing epoxy in, then jamming some epoxy fillet into it. More like grouting.

[rosy]

@j2sip,
I also have a surplus ryobi thicknesser which I got from Dettedoromal, it still works fine for my standards. But since I'm not sure if I can sharpen the blades when they get dull, I ordered this blades in amazon in our On-line 3 in PHM as a reserve;http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00302MWMO
HTH:).

HI there beedigo,

HE HE HE HE HE , So it was you who purchased that surplus Ryobi thicknesser from mam Dette, cause I was inquiring about that Ryobi a few months back and she said its out of stock and a guy from Laguna was the lucky one who got it :D.

Maganda ba syang gamitin bro ? I'll just check sulit from time to time if ever she has new stocks .Enjoy your thicknesser bro. :)

[j2sip]

Also be careful when using reclaimed wood, make sure no metal is left on it.


Adding to Timber's advice, wood from old houses might be great material but these often have small, and big, rusted nails that are difficult to see. I once chipped a carbide saw blade resawing this nice Yakal post reclaimed from an old house.


I have no metal detector yet so thanks for the warning, guys. I could easily be tempted as there are a lot of old reclaimed wood here for thicknesser fodder if I'm not too careful.

I also have a surplus ryobi thicknesser which I got from Dettedoromal, it still works fine for my standards. But since I'm not sure if I can sharpen the blades when they get dull, I ordered this blades in amazon in our On-line 3 in PHM as a reserve;http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00302MWMO
HTH.

Aren't the blades in your link sized 13"? Ryobi's shorter by 1/2" but I might be wrong.

thanks for the replies.

[lhannz04]

Jordan, I believe the blades of the Makita 2012nb should fit this in case you cannot find a replacement. Maybe someone in sulit carries that item....

Does anyone have tried this? Is it working? im looking forward to buy ryobi thicknesser from dette doromal in sulit. im worrying about the replacement part particularly the blades. thanks...