judge this workbench plan

[spyghost]

hi,

i'm planning on building my "very first" workbench.

although in reality there is no such thing as a universal workbench, but i want to keep my design as "universal" as possible.

my primary purpose for a workbench is for automotive (repair, assembly and dis-assembly) and weekend daddy house repair/projects. all will be made of wood - sandwiched' 2x4's and sandwiched 3/4" ply on top

i am considering a dimension of 60"x30"x30" with an overhang of 3" along its width and on one length. the other length will have an overhang of 0" - i'll be putting a vise on one end and a grinder on the other. the thickness of the top would be 1.5". all will be joined by screws and glue.

as for the mounting of the vise and grinder, i'm thinking of placing a threaded metal collar insert on the wood to accept the bolts that would hold down the 2 items - m12 or m10. that's with a medium thread locker.

i'll also be placing universal outlets around with a breaker.

i won't be putting casters because i want it as stationary and as stable as possible.

the designed would be based on this:
http://www.workbenchplans.net/ - i am looking towards the "best" or the "monster" as according to the site.

i'm still doing the cad design before i buy and chop things up.

any ideas on how i would make a durable finish?

[JayL]

The plan looks simple but effective to me. I built several similar in design but using metal angle bars.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0165.jpg

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/IMGP0166.jpg

[timber715]

a wooden top which is perfect for woodwork is terrible for automotive repair, a metal top is ideal for that application. making a workbench to fit both needs leaves you with a wooden workbench with a metal tray or liner or the other way around. oil, grease and other automotive fluids are not good on wood hence the metal part is ideal, lining the top with linoleum would probably work just try to keep the fluids away from the bench as much as possible imo...

[spyghost]

practically, if only i had a welding machine with me, i'd be building a full metal frame, but i don't, so that leaves me with a wooden design.

@timber
i got your point regarding auto fluids and wood. i'll be taking note of that. if i'll be pursuing this design and considering your view, it'll leave me with a combo of both. that would be sandwiched 2x4's for the structure and a metal top - quite awkward though... what's the best wood finish that can give me the best protection here?

as far as automotive work is concerned, i won't be putting engine blocks or transmission here. the heaviest thing that i can think of putting on top is a cylinder head (assembly/disassembly).

@jayl
in your first pic, is that a pipe bender you have on your wall? is that good for brake lines? wonder where you bought it... i might do some brake line re-piping once i upgraded my master cylinder.

your second pic looks simple and functional enough for auto repairs. is that table small or you just have a giant vise? :P is that fastened to the wall or floor? will that table move if some suspension part with a bolt or nut torqued to around 150 ft-lbs and clamped on your vise, will the table move?

[timber715]

what's the best wood finish that can give me the best protection here?
your best option would have to be hardwood oil... Sandolin is a great choice...

[spyghost]

is that locally available?

how about epoxy based paint?

[JayL]

@jayl
in your first pic, is that a pipe bender you have on your wall? is that good for brake lines? wonder where you bought it... i might do some brake line re-piping once i upgraded my master cylinder.

your second pic looks simple and functional enough for auto repairs. is that table small or you just have a giant vise? :P is that fastened to the wall or floor? will that table move if some suspension part with a bolt or nut torqued to around 150 ft-lbs and clamped on your vise, will the table move?

I currently don't have a pipe bender but even a small one to do tubes would be a good addition.

The second table is sturdy enough but it's got only a plywood top. I wanted to put a 1/4" steel top but will cost around 2,400 so I'm still not decided on it. Table measures 24" x 48" x 27" ( L x W x H ). Standalone it will move with 150 ft lbs but fastened to the wall I'm sure it can take more and still be steady.

I'm contemplating to add some casters to this to increase the height and so I can move it around easily. Maybe after I finish my folding welding table.

http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t347/jzltraco/6-2.jpg

Can you not design a secondary table top you could flip. Wood on one face then probably stainless steel sheet on the other. My table with the long jaw woodworking vise has a second MDF top which is not fastened. Sometimes when in the middle of a project the top gets gunky so I just flip it up to use the other face. I reckon in your case you could use the stainless sheet top for auto and the wood face for woodworking.

[spyghost]

wow that's pricey... 2,4k for a 2'x4'x1/4" steel... if it were on mine, then that would be almost double... mine would be 3'x5'x1/4"... whew... i think i'd settle first with a 3" wood top. i'll just find a suitable finish that could somehow withstand simple diy auto work and withstand auto chemicals

[JayL]

Yeah I find the price for the metal top high too so I'm holding till I find some in a junk shop for the regular 20 pesos per kilo price. :)

[jarod]

Yup, best to ask some steel men "magbabakal" from your place if they happen to stumble on a piece as big as yours. Problem is, it most probably need some cutting and some surface reconditioning. You never know...

[JayL]

Cutting is not a problem since I have an oxy acetylene torch but if it is badly warped then it is a problem for me. I'm not experienced yet in correcting this type of problem.