down scaled Jimmy Jig on my Table saw

[beebeenator]

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/6884/pic100608001.jpg

The jig went through some shortcuts, not as Macduff had intended. This is due in part that i wanted to use materials i already had inthe workshop

http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/1561/pic100608002.jpg

the blade insert is painted orange, Just my personal preference. Its mdf hence it had to be coated so.. orange it is

http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/1783/pic100608003.jpg

clamping mechanism. I think this is simpler than a screw clamp. The pine (being springy somewhat) helps absorb most of the over pressure of the toggle clamp hence saving my runners from being crushed

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/2022/pic100608008.jpg

here is my runner, rabbeted mainly due to bolts sticking out. a C purlins would've been better to use here and a thicker aluminim or a same thickness steel c-purlins would be better. But i didnt want to spend anything extra on this

[beebeenator]

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/4922/pic100608004.jpg

fence is straight forward. unlike my older malnourished fence. this thing can at least be fitted with various auxillary/sacrificial/saddle type fences over it

It has a 2x4 lumber in it so that the screws underneath has something to anchor to

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/1566/pic100608005.jpg

Macduff's orginal plan calls for a 4 - 5 ' of table top width. This is because his jig was really meant to ease the cutting of sheet goods. however with that setup he recommend strongly that the TS top be only around 1.5' off the ground. Which i wont be doing since i hate bending. And i would prefer my CS for wide/long sheet goods cutting so a donwsized tabel top is sufficient for me

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/2069/pic100608006.jpg

full extend to the right. Almost double my ripping capacity

http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/3236/pic100608007.jpg

i wont be using this tabel top position too much though.

the presence of the miter slots will allow for a thin strip jig which is vital for me.

A cross cut sled will be outfitted with the right end the sled jig riding on the fence and a runner hugging the left edge of the jimmy jig.

Macduff was able to make a circle cutting jig too. I havent seen how he does it yet.

If i could do things different:

1.) i woulved made a steel frame (but my mini welder isnt here yet). Then bolted it. Instead of bolting first then aligining

2.) I wouldve gotten a pre laminated sheet instead dabbing oil stain

This build took 4- 6 hours, cant remember exactly . I was doing jobs in between helping taking care of the baby hehe

[timber715]

I see you have it working nicely Ben, but since you have a huge recess that spans the insert, would ripping plywood with a not so flat surface tend to snag on the fence holder? how secured is the locking mechanism (remember the slightest movement on this can cause kickback)?

[jarod]

"support inserts" of different lengths could probably help the middle surface to be more flushed.

[beebeenator]

Hi Timber,

Jarod is correct

Macduff recommends to have support inserts of various sizes. Though i think two sizes are good enough. In Macduff's plan he has the recessed area edges rabbeted. Hence you can slap in rabbeted inserts too. He recommends a snug fit but stil slideable, I think his own jig uses phenolic plastic for the insert hence it works. But i maybe using mdf. If i am to do so i will have to painstaikingly edgeband the rabbeted edge... which seems kind of impractical so i am thingking of a insert that sits on the miter slot but can be shifted accordingly...

The clamping mechanism is quite rigid, even to me is surprising. I have been contemplating on having a second toggle clamp at the digonally opposite end. Another option is to have it near the power button.

Going back to the toggle clamp, it has a little play if FORCED. i test ripped a few already and its been perfect so far

That poses two problems though.

1) i am having trouble turning off the machine already as it is (hence before using it again iam making a LARGE panic off thingy, does anyone here made one? )

2.) the 2x4 plank that i would want to use has no where to attach, coz it will block the drawer. But I could always redo the drawer... but i hate making drawers coz my carcasses arent squared because i didnt really plan on attaching drawers in the first place.

spent the past week and a half making extra storage for my work are, tools, and a few jigs. I really gotta get back at making something hehehe

but just like bbn said, he enjoys making jigs... and i think i enjoy making these more than the product itself :)

[timber715]

hehehe, am aware that the insert is flush, what I meant was the other part of the cut, the one near the fence or away from the insert which is both sides of the material.
example: your fence system is 4ft. wide and you are cutting a 3ft plywood in half. 1.5ft will be hitting the fence and the recess in that area and 1.5ft will be hitting the open area both of which can snag if the material is not flat. just an observation, but if it works fine, then its a great upgrade...

[timber715]

and Ben, for the panic switch this is what I made before for my portable rt....
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_2313.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_2317.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_2319.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_2320.jpg

[jarod]

You can put a long kick panel on either leg that you could safely reach when cutting big sheets. It may also serve as a "middle switch" between the TS switch and that of the mains.

[beebeenator]

oh what i meant was adding inserts... maybe insert is not the correct term

There will be movable support plates that will fill in the gap.

http://www.megatech.tk/jj/images/jig1.jpg

here is Macduff's drawing from his website. the removable inserts will be the one that will act as leveled "bridge"

if in case the ply wood is really wavy ( which i will not bother anyway ) the inner edge wherein the piece enters to the upper half of the sliding table, the edge SHOULD be rounded over or chamfered.

... Are we talking about the same thing Timber? parang nalito din ako ah hehehe

[timber715]

yup, after posting and backreading again and looking at the pictures, That is correct, adding a spacer for the gap seems like the logical thing to do. yes we are on the same page. congrats again on your new ts... :p

[beebeenator]

ang ganda naman ng panic switch mo Timber :)

Jarod, ahhh oo nga pala. I would like to use either my leg or knee so that should be a good quick solution. Or yung katulad ng thread mill kaya? yung wearable tapos kung natangay ka hihila yung necklace that completes the cricuit hahahahah :)

[timber715]

madali lang yan bee, scrap, scrollsaw and a little handplaning (or glue a small scrap) and your done. wanted a magnetic switch kaya lang sobra mahal... kayang kaya mo yan...

[beebeenator]

heheheh

oo nga pala, the scroll saw. i had replenishement blades din nga pala

My scroll saw apparently is not ferrous metal based body... hindi magnetic!!! anyways going back

I will probablty make an oversized one where my knee can just nudge it . My infeed side has increased around 4 inches yata hence i will make this a little protruding.

[jarod]

ang ganda naman ng panic switch mo Timber :)

Jarod, ahhh oo nga pala. I would like to use either my leg or knee so that should be a good quick solution. Or yung katulad ng thread mill kaya? yung wearable tapos kung natangay ka hihila yung necklace that completes the cricuit hahahahah :)

Any dangling material like necklace would be hazardous I think. You could also opt for pressure or step switches where the TS would only run when your stepping on the switch (if that setup would not be a hassle).

[beebeenator]

i was thinking of attaching something like that to the waist. But i have decided for an oversized knee switch instead.

pressure switch is the safest however , like you said, could be a hassle because different stock dimensions require a different way of carrying and feeding...

[beebeenator]

made a fence saddle that slides also on on the aluminum fence and works as a tenon jig WOOHOO!

ripped several pieces of scraps and hard wood (teak)

i s4s a really rough teak using my old TS rip jig ( i just removed the runners and had it ride against the fence) on two sides. The the other two ripped it the conventional way

ripping is smooth everytime. No sign of binding or fence misalignment. smooth smooth SMOOTH!

Added 2 inserts at workable widths. These widths allow me already to rip any size i want

been moving the jig left and right countless of times.

everything is a charm so far.

Will post pictures tomorrow. :)

The only thing missing in the jig is a fine adjustment mechanism. I would imagine a row of teeth right under the runners and hand cranked wooden gears...

The MDF will wear off soon i suspect. When it does i will be using aluminum runners

[beebeenator]

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/1347/pic100609008.jpg

http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/4150/pic100609003.jpg

fence sliding saddle

http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/2574/pic100609001.jpg

rip rip rip! the far right is the teak

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/7269/pic100609006.jpg

quick squared on tenons, safely. Pic shows a single clamp. for illustration purposes only hehe

[jarod]

Things are getting along smoothly then for you and your Jet TS.
- What is the maximum wood thickness that the TS could rip with that jig?
- Did the jig solved the problem of the imperfect original table?
- Have you already fixed the squareness of the blade when raised or lowered?

If these are addressed, a Jet + McDuff jig would probably be a cheap solution then.

[timber715]

Things are getting along smoothly then for you and your Jet TS.
- What is the maximum wood thickness that the TS could rip with that jig?
- Did the jig solved the problem of the imperfect original table?
- Have you already fixed the squareness of the blade when raised or lowered?

If these are addressed, a Jet + McDuff jig would probably be a cheap solution then.
the mcduff plans alone cost 10USD plus the materials I estimate to cost around 3K plus the Jet ts, should set you back around 15K, depth of cut should be reduced by 3/4" thick and should be around 2 1/4" capacity leaving you with a 2" capacity safely.

[beebeenator]

Hi Jarod

The blade is squared naman when raised and lowered it just that it shifts a few mm left (when riased) to right (when lowered) . But it maintains its parallelness

It did solved the imperfect ness of the table because the sliding table top rests on the aluminum guide rails. hence it has its own reference flat

Maximum wood thickness... lets see... 85mm - (2mm + 12mm ) = 71 mm theoretical maximum. 2mm is the amount of rise the guide rails have over the table saw top. The 12mm is the half inch ply wood/mdf . I assume the saw cuts 85mm instead of the usual 90 for 10inch TS

If you ask me to re assess my TS purchase, i am still mixed. Nothing will ever replace a good TS. the bosch gts10 is still in my list because of the power it has over the other benchtop saws. even the dewalt 745 apparently lacks power. The gts10 also has more grunt DAW than the 4100.

but for those on a budget and enjoys jigs and contraptions. This makes a bad table saw into a good table saw

in theory i can rip woods at 140mm thick. Then rip one side then flip and rip again technique. I tried doing it. It will work on my saw IF my saw can cut the wood at full blade height without bogging down. But either my blade is dirty or my saw dont have enough grunt. Hence i had to cut the wood in several passes at different heights , then flip. With that and the shifting blade thing.... you get a very rough cut , which have to be fed to the thicknesser

i will be spraying polyurethane on the top and botto,m of the jig later. Spray can poly. :) wipiing is too tedious.

[bbn]

Very nice work Bee. I've seen that site before but did not pay much attention to it. Now that you say the jig is really good, I might consider doing one too though I must say do like the JJWS.

[beebeenator]

yeah the Jimmy Jig workstation looks neat. Since it also had a dedicated cross cutting area. Plus you can slap a RT on it , jigsaw table , hand planer upside down jointer thingy...

I think Macduff even made a slot mortising router jig...

I am contemplating on replacing the runners underneath to acrylic.. since i have boat loads of it at home at the moment. But some adjustments are needed and the runners are glued. Or i may grab a 1/2 inch phenolic and redo the top... oh well will see

[beebeenator]

went and had a look at the JJWS.. its concept is the same pala but execution is reversed. This time it is your saw unit that moves not the table top.

[timber715]

JJWS??? :confused:

[beebeenator]

http://megatech.tk/jj/index.php?name=Products&page=Jimmy_Jig_Workstation

jimmy jig workstation

the same guy who made the plans for the jimmy jig

[timber715]

hehehe, thanks...

[beebeenator]

i had the same reaction when Louis said JJWS... took me half an hour to figure it out

I cleaned my blade today. Rips sweeter than yesterday.

OT: I cant get myself to buy the freud thin kerf combi blades... 2.5K a pop! any local alternatives?

[bbn]

Kayo naman the JJWS is just a little lower on the Product page. I'm thinking I'd like to do that using the saw motor I scrounged but this is OT.

This is OT but heck its Bee's topic and he brought it up .... My impression is that P2500 for a Freud is worth it. I'd give it a shot Bee then if it doesn't live up to your expectation do buy another. Where is this P2500 Freud?

Recently I bought a thin kerf Powercraft (I think) blade from Hans. IIRC, the kerf is only 1.7 or 1.5 mm. Seems ok but I haven't really had a chance to use it extensively because it is only 7-1/4" and the workpieces I had were too thick.

[timber715]

akala ko kasi eh, jejemon thingy yun :p:eek::rolleyes::p.
well there is the Bosch saw blades, for the moment all I use is the one with the 4100 but it isn't think kerf. Irwin Hardware has these on stock, they might have thin kerf and iirc the price was 1.7K.

[bbn]

Bro, I don't even know what "jejemon" means. What does it mean anyway?

[JayL]

Bro, I don't even know what "jejemon" means. What does it mean anyway?

Ha ha ha Ditto here.

[beebeenator]

you know what. I also thought jjws meant jejemon something ahhahahah. Like i said.. i thought about it for 30 minutes. i still downt know what jejemon means either. I just hear it ??

ill check out hans tools. with consumables id rather be able to buy them here (just seems a more comfortable notion to me) or if i can buy it overseas, ill get a few dozen

50$ yung combination thin kerf 10" ng Freud ... rip thin kerf is 39$ ata ... and crosscut is around 30 something din i think.


I hate changing blades so i am thinking about the combi

[JayL]

Looks like you have lots of space Bee ..... probably a second TS. :) Dedicated Rips and Crosscuts. Wow that would be cool.

Are you happy with the Jet TS now given that it's got the new jig?

[beebeenator]

actually i have started to run out of space. Because of the huge assembly table i made out of plywood. It serves as outfeed na rin... and drawers under.. but seems positioned and sized inefficiently.. maybe in 6 months i will rearrange the basment.

A second TS would be greatly under utilized :) hence i dont know. If i do get the gts10 or 4100 i may convert this ts to a thickness sander.

I am happy with the ts now... my rips are dead on accurate. I just need to make a crosscut sled. I dont agree with Macduff's design... Actually i dont even know if his name is Jim McCombie or Suemas Macduff or what.. anyway. His crosscut sled kasi has to be screwed down. its a set of 3 pieces acrylic. This to me takes too long to setup. I prefer mine to slap on and take off

My cross cut jig will ride the saddle. The fence saddle is fitted snuggly over the aluminum fence but slides smoothly... So in theory crosscut sled movement shoud be smooooth... theory.. I actually had my apprehension sa jimmyjig at first. Initially i thought it wont slide with ease.. heck i can use two fingers to slide it left to right :) so perhaps the cross cut contraption will work. But i was thnking it might pinch or bend the sled since it is only riding on one reference and to the far right at that. so a runner hugging the left edge of the table is needed. but this left edge is not really squared (blame me :)) so i wil have to trim it down a bit

another option is to place another aluminim fence on the far left. But that means my cross cutting length is reduced

well i will be doing all this tonight till 3am maybe

slept at 5am this morning.... 5 hours watching tv instead of wood working.. what a waste... So now i have to ask my househelps to wear ear plugs hahaha



Also i will be using a measely 1/4 ply. cutting capacity is pretty compromised na kasi.

[bbn]

You sure have an interesting work schedule there Bee ... similar to Timber.

[beebeenator]

heheheh its killing me at work. I try to go to bed by 12 midnight... but lately my body clock is kaputz

[timber715]

heheheh its killing me at work. I try to go to bed by 12 midnight... but lately my body clock is kaputz
heehehe, if I sleep by midnight, I am probably sick... lol

[macduff]

made a fence saddle that slides also on on the aluminum fence and works as a tenon jig WOOHOO!

ripped several pieces of scraps and hard wood (teak)

i s4s a really rough teak using my old TS rip jig ( i just removed the runners and had it ride against the fence) on two sides. The the other two ripped it the conventional way

ripping is smooth everytime. No sign of binding or fence misalignment. smooth smooth SMOOTH!

Added 2 inserts at workable widths. These widths allow me already to rip any size i want

been moving the jig left and right countless of times.

everything is a charm so far.

Will post pictures tomorrow. :)

The only thing missing in the jig is a fine adjustment mechanism. I would imagine a row of teeth right under the runners and hand cranked wooden gears...

The MDF will wear off soon i suspect. When it does i will be using aluminum runners
beebeenator;7428
Hallawrerr, macduff inquiring if you received the piggie/back and the OZ down-under table saw with the over/head router. Have you constructed any of the updates slainte mhath macduff

[timber715]

hey MacDuff, welcome to pinoyhandyman, nice of you to join us...

[macduff]

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/6884/pic100608001.jpg

The jig went through some shortcuts, not as Macduff had intended. This is due in part that i wanted to use materials i already had inthe workshop

http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/1561/pic100608002.jpg

the blade insert is painted orange, Just my personal preference. Its mdf hence it had to be coated so.. orange it is

http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/1783/pic100608003.jpg

clamping mechanism. I think this is simpler than a screw clamp. The pine (being springy somewhat) helps absorb most of the over pressure of the toggle clamp hence saving my runners from being crushed

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/2022/pic100608008.jpg

here is my runner, rabbeted mainly due to bolts sticking out. a C purlins would've been better to use here and a thicker aluminim or a same thickness steel c-purlins would be better. But i didnt want to spend anything extra on this


macduff here the photos are a good copy
of the OJJ, may I suggest you search in youtube seumas2 then click on seumas2 channels and open any of the 65 videos then you will get the drift and operations with safety being the main factor

[macduff]

macduff here the photos are a good copy
of the OJJ, may I suggest you search in youtube seumas2 then click on seumas2 channels and open any of the 65 videos then you will get the drift and operations with safety being the main factor
The OJJ, why a stationary or fixed fence and a sliding support platform, simple it will easily handle sheet material to 4ft. on centre in combination with the outrigger which has but one line of friction along the top of the pipe, this eliminates the need for large side and out-feed permanently mounted support tables, the outrigger is easily transferred to either the out-feed or the side support position as it is light and portable as is the whole system of the OJJ, ideal in shop or on site.
The fence once set parallel to the blade and at right angles to the sliding support platform, it will never deviate,yall of flex, removeable from the table saw and hung on the wall, eliminating wasted shop space.
All safety devices are rock solid on the stationary fence and ideally placed up front of the blade or cutting tool, over-head from the fence on a bracket with the support rod. All innovations will retro-fit any table saw, expanding the workable size of the small table saws.
To the aperture many other cutting tools can be added to extra, slidable inserts, which make the surface co-planer and placed where required to support material, removeable and re adjusted.
The dangers of kick-back and been adequately answered with the multiple choices of up-front safety device as is the riving knife added to an inset that self-alines with the blade, this eliminates the complacency and fear factor, helping woodworkers to count to ten on both hands for a lifetime of woodworking, the table saw being the most popular machine but still possibly the most dangerous to operate.
A simple diversion from macduff on other safety devices, resulted in the invention of the piggie-back and the down-under OZ table saw.
These straddle the OJJ as an addition or can be utilized on any flat table surface, even the kitchen table, with all-around prevention of contact with a cutting tool or blade, eliminating complacency. The saw and or router slides on a frame in an innovative aperture, sized in conjunction with the OJJ's or the kitchen table, the inserts slide with one another when PIGGIE-BACKED with the OJJ.
Multiple safety devices are used with the use of banding material adjustable to any position with in the aperture and the blade is even cover from the top with a see-through sliding plexi cover, alternately made for the safety devices on the stationary fence.
The piggie-back has two stationary fences one for lefties, both can be utilized with multiple tools in place at the same time and in conjunction with the OJJ can gang cut and router the edges. The piggie-back is simply clamped to the OJJ and or any flat surface for single use, light-weight at about 10 lbs will rip to 4 ft. if so designed. macduff can truthfully say on using the OJJ for over 30 years with the choice of multiple safety devices in place on a stationary fence, he has never had a kick-back. safety first at all times and don't be complacent.
slainte mhath macduff