Craftsman Jointer Rehab.

[owyn]

I think i might as well post this. It would do me good- so i'll be semi-forced finish this through and in a timely manner. (I'll give myself 3 weeks max or about 50 hours.)

I've been stymied for months on how to remove the old bearings. I made this, bought that, made another thing, waded through forums.. but only tonight did i make a break through. Turns out the arbor is simply set screwed into the cutterhead. Just some medium-handed taps with a hammer and a punch, no hydraulic press needed. The interference fit is so relaxed, the bearings stays in place via snap rings.

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss1/owyn_band_so_long/TPC/Image0143.jpg

Am excited i can't sleep, and am looking forward to the next shop time and install the news bearings. I believe it's pretty much plain sailing from here. The biggest challenges (challenges not hurdles) i foresee is getting replacement snap 5/8" rings, V belt, and mounting the motor.

[timber715]

The biggest challenges (challenges not hurdles) i foresee is getting replacement snap 5/8" rings, V belt, and mounting the motor.
they are not even challenges in your capacity, please keep us up to date...

[owyn]

Thanks for the vote of confidence but i really just learn as i go. Had i digested fully the blow up diagram in the manual i should have finished this months ago >_<. I've mushroomed the arbor ends from using the hammer ( i should have put a wooden caul in the first place.) Good thing it cleaned up nicely and wouldn't matter.

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss1/owyn_band_so_long/TPC/Image0148.jpg
The snap ringed bearing is easy to remove- just some water pipe that matches the inner race of the bearing and using the metal workbench vise (jaws support the race ala press). The other end has a tighter fit and simply wouldn't budge. I even had to use a 1 foot cheater pipe on the bearing puller handle. (Bought that at hans.) I remember those were the tolerance i had to deal with when restoring the spanish drill press.

Destroyed two of the snap rings (see i could still improve =) ) so off i go to hunt some...

The variac (another looong one) is on the back burner. (No problems there, just some issues with fit and finish but it works great. Kinda concerned with the inrush current tho being a 3KVA "transformer". I think it would be better if i put a soft start.)

[JayL]

Owyn is that the CM jointer you purchased from the Craigs ad sometime ago? All the while I thought refurb was done already. Glad that you're posting the rebuild.

[owyn]

^yep this is the CL find. (Thanks again =). ) On purchase it had a ratty v-belt, no motor mount, and came with the wrong motor, which is fine by me considering the price.

Using a level with a .5mm/1meter flatness i could insert a .15mm feeler gauge underneath. Just read up on acceptable bed flatness and some say .25mm is acceptable while others say it shouldn't be more than .10mm (Oliver factory spec.) http://wiki.owwm.com/%28S%28bfdfie55namjaa55f55zihvi%29%29/JointerTuning.ashx

Using scotchbrite and WD40, i haven't cleaned it up. It is my hope that it'll be flatter when black oxide areas are removed.
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss1/owyn_band_so_long/TPC/Image0157.jpg

[owyn]

I don't feel that i've made great strides today, but i did make a few steps further into the journey.

Instead of razor blades, i used plane irons to remove surface rust. And then scotchbrite pad with the beds lubricated with WD40. Wiped it all clean with lacquer thinner. And then Turco rust converter.
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss1/owyn_band_so_long/TPC/Image0164.jpg
Those are brush marks. The rust on the deep parts (the machining marks are still very evident) will be neutralized into harmless iron phosphate. Gonna wait this to dry overnight.

[owyn]

Eh... cutterhead assembly's got rust. I thought they were just grime. The wedge, blades, cutterhead.. that was revealed after brushing it with diesel. (Thank goodness for 3m respirator. The latex gloves disintegrated.) Thinking of subjecting it into electrolysis tomorrow.

The outfeed table's within the .007" (.18mm) spec of flatness as stated on owwm.com. But just barely.
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss1/owyn_band_so_long/TPC/Image0166.jpg

[timber715]

the cutter head seems massive, how about some closer pictures... you're doing great progress, but lately your becoming a toolhead more than a woodworker... lol

[moji]

This rehab is quite interesting..

I think nitrile gloves would be better suited for you since your working with chemicals. They should withstand them better than latex gloves..

[owyn]

Weird but I saw some cutterhead for sale in t. alonzo before (shop where moji and i bought bandsaw blades.) I guess it's for pinoy homemade jointers where the beds are made of molave (i've seen 2 examples.)

It's 'just' a craftsman. Prolly better than lowend taiwanese ones but it's no makita, powermatic, Oliver. Due to the 2 set screws, it's inherently unbalanced so the cutterhead should be run at a conservative pace, which translates to a conservative feed. Just admitting it for what it is, not exactly complaining for the price i got it for =).

-----

Is nitrile the glove that u use for bathrooms/ available in groceries? *makes mental note* I'm so far away from grocery, girlfriend, malls, tools on weekdays. (I enjoyed a fog passing by while working on the veranda though.) Totally different from Timb where the neighborhood is ground zero.

Btw sir Timb, it's out of the budget but i'll ask anyway: have you seen this in mayon?
http://www.rockler.com/rockler/images/28220-md.jpg

[moji]

Nitrile gloves can be found at the mall hardwares..or at wilcon..

how do you deal with rust for your tools? Im in almost the same position as you (no fog though) as i work in a veranda too.

[owyn]

Could have done so much more had i went to the shop earlier. Rust on the cutterhead assembly is dealt with electrolysis. It's thorough and doesn't remove steel.

All the pieces are to be electrically connected.
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss1/owyn_band_so_long/TPC/Image0173.jpg

It's a bit of a line-of-sight thing so it's covered by the sacrificial steel which is hooked up to the positive. Goes under the bench to avoid being knocked over accidentally. (Not that i'd recommend it but i've put my hand on the solution before and i didn't get zapped.)
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss1/owyn_band_so_long/TPC/Image0175.jpg

The battery charger is on the other side of the bench. Only draws 3 amps- must be because the sacrificial steel is too rusted and or too diluted baking soda solution, too big an area etc... but as long as i get the bubblies i know it's working. http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss1/owyn_band_so_long/TPC/Image0179.jpg

[timber715]

that is something I have always wanted to learn...please start a thread about electrolysis when you have the time...

pm sent bro...

[owyn]

^ Some say that 6 amps is pretty wimpy. But i had to ease the amps to around 4 amps because the water's getting warm and the hydrogen bubbles are too much. Since i couldn't remove baking soda anymore, i added water. The important thing is to AVOID shortages and put the negative on the parts to be cleaned (it's so thorough the paint gets removed too.)

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm#achieved

Nothing done yesterday, turns out the knives were %^@$# hard.

Today i lubricated the dovetail ways of the infeed and installed it all back. (Haven't made it co-planar to the outfeed yet.) Think i'll use the door spring for the "pork chop." Good thing it was in my "useful stash of trash." I got a stash of nut and bolts too- ordinary, stainless, and grade 5.

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss1/owyn_band_so_long/TPC/Image0191.jpg

[timber715]

bakit, wala na yung spring ng pork chop?

[owyn]

There's something wrong with the OEM spring. It's a bit loose. Maybe it was installed the wrong way and so it would return a bit weak.

Not original but when done, i think it wouldn't look intrusive. Am not feeling well. Good night everyone =)

[timber715]

sige bro get well soon, and try not to sniff wd40 too much... ;)

[owyn]

If i were to rate myself in this tool rehab, it would be a 7/10 unfortunately- it will be to a "user." Functional as the day it was made but nothing more.

I wish it was 8-9; little to no trace of repair, clean paint. I could do that if i knew what i know now =/. (10 would be the shiny cast iron, calendar pic quality restorations.)

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss1/owyn_band_so_long/TPC/Image0201.jpg
My first tool is the vernier which i bought 2nd hand way back in college.Used the depth gauge function to realign the set screws to the flats in the arbor. I got about 2mm of window.

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss1/owyn_band_so_long/TPC/Image0206.jpg
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss1/owyn_band_so_long/TPC/Image0204.jpg
Fugly marks on the arbor ends.



10 piso lang ang snap rings, pero sus, kelangan ko pang pmuntang binondo para maka kuha. One slipped and flew away fast and landed 6 feet away... buti di ako nabulag >_<.

*will get v belt, hinges, and spray paint tomorrow*

[timber715]

very solid looking jointer bro, solid rehab as well... painting is something I'm learning and enjoying, I know you will too. with the proper education on it, it will be a breeze to do. unfortunately, I am learning the hard way, thru trial and error but I'm making progress.

[owyn]

Procastination is a bad trait of mine, didn't do anything last mon or tues.

The stand has a few areas with rust which i treated with turco. Then two coats of epoxy primer last week.

Sanded some of the high spots of the brush marks tonight. I still wore a mask and used a tack rag. It's a little detail but it's a biggie- trifold the sandpaper and you won't need a sanding block in most cases. http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss1/owyn_band_so_long/TPC/Image0214.jpg

And did some color tests with spray cans i got.
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss1/owyn_band_so_long/TPC/Image0218.jpg

I just remembered that pieces are usually hanged when sprayed. Lucky, there's a natural draft which goes towards the outside. I almost can't smell the thinner evaporate!
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss1/owyn_band_so_long/TPC/Image0222.jpg

[owyn]

Breakthrough.

While waiting for these to dry between coats....
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss1/owyn_band_so_long/TPC/Image0235.jpg

I started to attack the knife with the lowest grit i got which is 80. I used the body and the blade of a block plane with STRONG magnets to hold the knife. The screwdriver is used to pry it off. Tried a few approaches on how to hold it, where the bevel feels most evident. Progressed from 80 to 180, 280, 400, then 2000 with chromium oxide and WD40. The last step, hand held, the knife can even stand on it's own due to the suction.
http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss1/owyn_band_so_long/TPC/Image0227.jpg

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss1/owyn_band_so_long/TPC/Image0230.jpg
With just 5 pieces of sandpaper, it's more than enough to hone all 3 knives to hair shaving sharp. The hairs doesn't pop off effortlessly unlike when i 'cheat' with the strop but i'm satisfied.

[timber715]

its my chance to get back... hehehe. ganda ng legs mo bro... :p:p

[owyn]

^ =). Haven't done this in a long time.

Especially for those who are starting out, I think we could classify test shaving into three categories:

1. When the edge wouldn't engage the hairs, would hardly snag, or you have to push more than the weight of your palm, it meant that there was a failure in your process. You didn't spend enough time on a certain grit, and/or failed to maintain a consistent bevel. Happens to me when I'm rushing.

2. It would snag hairs, about the factory edge of snap blade cutters like Olfas and Tajimas. But the hairs do resist and you have to take several passes just like in this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6c81Qbruxkg&feature=related 0:50 and 6:30

3. Sweet edge sharp. Hairs would pop/jump off . It's addicting. 5 minutes later you realize you have minor cuts in your finger, you just didn't notice immediately. For my current skill, i usually attain this through 'cheating' with a rouge charged strop. (Rounds the bevel thho) If i'm careful, i can get to that point through glass and sandpaper but i'm not consistent enough.

#2 will do for now...

[timber715]

have you tried using hardwood charged with oxide as a strop... prevents rounding the blade..

[owyn]

Just finished being a laundryman half hour ago =/. I do try to get things done when there's time...

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss1/owyn_band_so_long/TPC/Image0280.jpg

There I was, walking in Binondo carrying the heavy motor and i mused: don't i have an uncommon hobby ^_^, (but it's what i enjoy doing and as the producer of The new yankee workshop said: Humans have an inherent need to make.) It's such a shame to use the dual shafted craftsman motor for the jointer, and i lucked in finding a used single phase motor in the area.

The 1/2hp GE motor works, but might as well reinforce the insulation with epoxy, cover the fragile cloth covered wires with shrink tubing, clean the centrifugal switch contacts, along with lubing the sleeve bearings and new paint. Hair dryer to make the epoxy runny hah!

I assembled it again and it runs...

Moj, i got a a stanley socket set. What's good about it is it has BOTH metric and SAE, 3/8" socket on top are 12 points, the ones below are 1/4" 6 points. I bet koken is better made, but the stanley's sufficient, and bang for the buck with that much sockets @ 2.5K...

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss1/owyn_band_so_long/TPC/Image0306.jpg

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss1/owyn_band_so_long/TPC/Image0305.jpg

[moji]

Your sets look good. I actually have no use yet for a socket wrench although i have a incoming ratchet on the way. What i need now is a set of 1/4" sockets.

[guad]

I think that 37-piece socket set is Stanley 89-518. Except that when I saw it last year, the case was red, P2,349.75.

The ratchet seems to have 54 teeth. I don't know how Stanley compares in quality to GearWrench or Snap-on or Craftsman, but yes, bang for buck of this particular set is not too bad, though maybe not as high as this 60-piece set (http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-92-809-MaxDrive-60-Piece-Standard/dp/B000JPWD92/ref=sr_1_cc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1288266290&sr=1-2-catcorr), if we are going by pieces per dollar.

http://cdn.mysimplifieds.com/images/classifieds/640/480/20101021060905B45GPBOSWZ (http://www.greatdynamic.com/template.php?isi=detail&&kode_id=kd-sy00002&&product_name=37)

[owyn]

^ The red one's paper carton says made in china. The yellow version says made in taiwan. Saw that little detail when i compared it side by side. Also had something like "meets and exceeds ANSI requirements" whereas the red doesn't have it. But FWIW, the fit and finish are almost industinguishable.

Waht i really like it is you have metric and sae, and the case is fairly compact. Sockets on bottom are 6 pointers, big ones on top are 12 (will work on square bolts but not perfectly.) Just added a 3/8" extension and 1/4" to hex adapter for when using a drill.

(All the jointer needs is a motor mount, and still thinking if i should put overload protection...)

[JayL]

I'd take the Taiwan made stuff over the Chinese one anytime of the day.

@Owyn

Do you encounter SAE nuts and bolts on the OWWMs you rebuild. How about for replacement, are there sources of SAE nuts and bolts locally?

Thanks:)

[JayL]

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss1/owyn_band_so_long/TPC/Image0173.jpg



Bro,

Where did you buy the baking soda and how much was it?

Thanks

Jay

[jarod]

Ninong, that's available in any grocery. I have bought some in Cash & Carry sometime ago. That is very cheap compared to the chemicals that you use.

[JayL]

Ninong, that's available in any grocery. I have bought some in Cash & Carry sometime ago. That is very cheap compared to the chemicals that you use.

Thanks Jarod . Will pass by Cash and Carry then.

[Armand]

Hi owyn..how's the rehab of this jointer.Is it working na?...Someone from the US offered me to ship used 8" Craftman jointer for US$750, excluding shipping cost pa.

I' rather go Matthias Wandel's (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mdgg_M07VhI&feature=player_embedded) way.

[owyn]

^What's the Wandell way?

===
Old machinery prices are funny. Sometimes they cost next to nothing, sometimes the prices are fair, and sometimes the seller thinks he's got a super duper ultra rare object that should cost more than a car. I got a DP for free (though a new motor and bearings totaled to 7K, couldn't resist so i bought another keyless chuck for it too.) I got the powermatic bandsaw for about 700$...

As per advise of owwm, it's all about the condition of the machine sir -after acquiring four machines i now realize the wisdom of their experience.

===
For now the craftsman 6" jointer is lacking a motor (haven't pulled the trigger on buying one yet.) Table flatness was barely within spec but who knows if it'll make "joint"-ready faces which will pass the candlelight-test. If it doesn't, i'll still keep it- let it do the coarse-medium part of milling so i don't have to do grunt work, leaving me with just final passes from a plane. I'd consider it as an upside-down "hand planer" =).

[rosy]

Hi owyn..how's the rehab of this jointer.Is it working na?...Someone from the US offered me to ship used 8" Craftman jointer for US$750, excluding shipping cost pa.

I' rather go Matthias Wandel's (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mdgg_M07VhI&feature=player_embedded) way.


Bro Armand,

Here's a list of some GI SHEETS and STAINLESS SHEETS with their corresponding gauges and prices. Prices may differ in your area, you can just use this as price reference.

FOR GI SHEETS : 4 X 8 one whole sheet

Gauge 15 ---------- Php. 1,700.00
" 16 ----------Php 1,400.00
" 18 --1.1---- Php 1,300.00
--1.0--- Php 1,050.00
" 20 --------- Php 980.00
" 22 --------- Php 800.00
" 24 --------- Php 600.00


FOR STAINLESS SHEETS : 4 X 8 one whole sheet

Gauge 15 ---------- Php 4,900.00
" 16 --------- Php 4,200.00
" 18 --------- Php 3,200.00
" 20 --------- Php 2,850.00
" 22 --------- Php 2800.00



Bro I hope this will be of help to you when the time comes that you decide to make a DIY jointer for yourself similar to Matthias Wandel's make, with these prices you can compare them in hardware stores in your place.

By the way this hardware also sells half sheets, you just divide the stated price in two. Its the smallest size that they sell. :p :)





00oo

[Armand]

Thanks a lot Rosy..i'll proceed with the homemade 12" jointer once the current project is done. I already have the plan similar to Wandel's but different cutting depth mechanism.

here's the sketchup i made last night:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-uLOdwlaoSrI/TnqkqPRLNKI/AAAAAAAABZY/FAS_OG6CzdM/s700/jointer.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-xmTE-OmNCto/TnqkqYLCsmI/AAAAAAAABZc/Spf_n76gN2g/s700/jointer3.jpg

I'll be using pillowblocks on the actual build and screw tail vise for the adjustment. Four springs attached to the infeed table and to the main body will give downward push and add stability.

[rosy]

Bro Armand,

WOW, finally you have the design already and really going to push thru with the jointer project ha !!!!!

Yes a pillow block is a good choice, just get the ones made in Japan, though a little expensive. Where will the pillow block be attached or mounted ?, on the wooden frame or on a welded angular frame ?

Bro, can you please make it a step by step procedure too so that I can follow the build, I want to make one too patterned from your sketch, hope that's ok with you.


THANKS BRO in advance. !!!!!

[Armand]

on the yakal wood frame..meron nako source ng reclaimed woods better than policarpio. Malanday Enterprises, its in Tayuman Binangonan.

[joey81]

on the yakal wood frame..meron nako source ng reclaimed woods better than policarpio. Malanday Enterprises, its in Tayuman Binangonan.

better = cheaper?

More than a month ago I inquired at Policarpio and their price is 70/bdft if I remember correctly.
Planing fee is 15/bdft.

[owyn]

oh a DIY jointer... I've been to a couple of sash factories where they don't have a TS, but they have a cutterhead-on- pillowblocks jointers. They tend to have molave beds.

It must be common stuff because ARQ in t.alonzo and LYS have cutterheads (just cutterheads) for sale.

Katakot para sakin.
=====
I wouldn't recommend this, i really wouldn't but it just flashed through my mind after seeing BIG, macho 6", 8" makita hand planers. What if i could just drop it in some sort sturdy table to extend its infeed and outfeed. I wouldn't have to deal with mounting bearings, cutterheads and motor- and how those component interplay- i'll have makita quality in that assembly. (The made-in-japan 8" incher costs 20K though, egad!)

[Armand]

better = cheaper?

More than a month ago I inquired at Policarpio and their price is 70/bdft if I remember correctly.
Planing fee is 15/bdft.


p42/bdft. The thing is they don't re-saw the woods into desired size. No planer too. But they have plenty of 2xs yakal there.

[Armand]

oh a DIY jointer... I've been to a couple of sash factories where they don't have a TS, but they have a cutterhead-on- pillowblocks jointers. They tend to have molave beds.

It must be common stuff because ARQ in t.alonzo and LYS have cutterheads (just cutterheads) for sale.

Katakot para sakin.
=====
I wouldn't recommend this, i really wouldn't but it just flashed through my mind after seeing BIG, macho 6", 8" makita hand planers. What if i could just drop it in some sort sturdy table to extend its infeed and outfeed. I wouldn't have to deal with mounting bearings, cutterheads and motor- and how those component interplay- i'll have makita quality in that assembly. (The made-in-japan 8" incher costs 20K though, egad!)

yes its a DIY jointer with cutter head cover similar to Matthias' (http://woodgears.ca/jointer/homemade.html).

I saw the 8" cutter head at ARQ and it costs p5.5k including the blades and pillowblocks, wala pa motor. The diameter was big, with 3 blades, that size will require a 3HP induction motor. The John Bensen at 16k was ok na sana but being 6" is to small for me.

I'm in a hurry to have one for the ordered jewelry boxes kasi, in time for xmas giveaways.

[jarod]

...it costs p5.5k including the blades and pillowblocks, wala pa motor...

How will the motor be connected to this? Is there a protrusion for a pulley of some sort?

[Armand]

How will the motor be connected to this? Is there a protrusion for a pulley of some sort?

The shaft is built-in to the cutterhead with protrusion for pillowblocks and the pulley. The 6" cutterhead is 4.9k all-in except for the motor.

The Ryobi AP13AK is p6.5K, 12.5" with 2000w 60hz motor.

[joey81]

The Ryobi AP13AK is p6.5K, 12.5" with 2000w 60hz motor.

Armand, saan ito? Lahat kasi ng nakita ko sa sulit out of stock na.

[Armand]

Hi Joey, click here (http://www.sulit.com.ph/index.php/view+classifieds/id/3706071/WE+ARE+SELLING+RYOBI%2C+HOMELITE%2C+VAX++POWER+TOO LS?referralKeywords=RYOBI+SELL).

They are one of the importers of ryobi power tools, most sulit sellers, HMR and SOS get their merchandise from them. Actually i bought 2 Thicknessers last Saturday for 4.5k each. they still have 4 units of thicknessers left.

The ryobi TS sells for 5k only and the 10" SCMS is only 2.5k

[jonathanscruz68]

Actually i bought 2 Thicknessers last Saturday for 4.5k each. they still have 4 units of thicknessers left.


para kanino yung isa? :eek:

[Armand]

para kanino yung isa? :eek:

he he..one will be my thicknesser, the other one will become a jointer.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-fvmz2rUyTL4/Tnvi8BYc6bI/AAAAAAAABZ8/sTfMTFoDv90/s350/09232011842.jpg

[rosy]

@ Armand,

So these two thicknessers are for real na ha and recently purchased ? That's great !!!!, these are the two items I saw before at your photo gallery, ehe he he he .



@ joey81,

Ok yung store or bodega na sinabi ni Armand, ang daming items for sale and the place is near and can easily be visited, only at Boni Ave. sa EDSA. Bro pasyal na duon, open Mon to Sat, 8 am - 5 pm, very reasonable prices for power tools., GO GO GO na if you have the time.

[joey81]

@ joey81,

Ok yung store or bodega na sinabi ni Armand, ang daming items for sale and the place is near and can easily be visited, only at Boni Ave. sa EDSA. Bro pasyal na duon, open Mon to Sat, 8 am - 5 pm, very reasonable prices for power tools., GO GO GO na if you have the time.

Just got home with the thicknesser, sliding miter saw and a heat gun. They gave me a 10% discount.

[Armand]

Just got home with the thicknesser, sliding miter saw and a heat gun. They gave me a 10% discount.

Rosy, hindi na pinatagal pa ni joey..

[rosy]

@ Armand,

HA HA HA HA HA HA , YES BRO, humirit na agad si joey, baka nga naman maubusan ng thicknesser e sayang ang chance. If only I have the budget now for it, I'd be interested too but I hope they'd have more of thicknesser in the coming days. I have not gone there but seeing the list of what they were selling, wow ang dami, one of these days papasyalan ko store nila.

[joey81]

@ Armand,

HA HA HA HA HA HA , YES BRO, humirit na agad si joey, baka nga naman maubusan ng thicknesser e sayang ang chance. If only I have the budget now for it, I'd be interested too but I hope they'd have more of thicknesser in the coming days. I have not gone there but seeing the list of what they were selling, wow ang dami, one of these days papasyalan ko store nila.

Hehehe. Halata bang excited? :p

Two times I found one in sulit.com. Nagpakipot pa ako, baka maka-discount. When I was about to buy it may nauna na sa akin. I'm not going to let it happen the 3rd time.

But... in my excitement yung naka-display na lang ang kinuha ko. When I got home only then I noticed it was already used a lot. The in-feed and outfeed tables are already scratched to the base metal.

Mukhang unused pa yung kay Armand. :(

[JayL]

Hehehe. Halata bang excited? :p

Two times I found one in sulit.com. Nagpakipot pa ako, baka maka-discount. When I was about to buy it may nauna na sa akin. I'm not going to let it happen the 3rd time.

But... in my excitement yung naka-display na lang ang kinuha ko. When I got home only then I noticed it was already used a lot. The in-feed and outfeed tables are already scratched to the base metal.

Mukhang unused pa yung kay Armand. :(

Can you still return and exchange? It it was me I won't settle for less.

[joey81]

Can you still return and exchange? It it was me I won't settle for less.

I'll call tomorrow and see if I can still exchange it. Baka pumayag kasi may ibang items pa naman akong bibilhin sa kanila.

[Armand]

But... in my excitement yung naka-display na lang ang kinuha ko. When I got home only then I noticed it was already used a lot. The in-feed and outfeed tables are already scratched to the base metal.

kaya pala may additional discount pa na 10% yung display unit ang kinuha mo, i saw that, that's why i asked them to get from stocks.


Mukhang unused pa yung kay Armand. :(

..mine are used but in prestine conditions, no snipe or whatever issues so far. I started tearing down one of them last night.

[joey81]

I started tearing down one of them last night.

Pics! Pics!

Are the feed rollers and the blade rotor driven by the same motor? If the rollers have a dedicated motor maybe we can make the feed rate variable.

[Armand]

pics later. rollers and cutter head are driven by a single motor. Feed speed is not variable as rollers are driven by bicycle chain and sprockets.

here's what i got after hours of googling. Looks very simple to tear down.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Gu9Our-QFiM/Tn_yjH37QwI/AAAAAAAABbw/RCp_AzTEi4Q/s640/ryobi%252520innards.jpg

I will make a new thread for the jointer build once i begun dismantling the motor and cutter head. Nanghihinayang ako kagabi habang binabaklas lahat ng covers..ganda pa eh. Kumpleto nako sa service parts.

[jarod]

Where to buy the replacement blades if ever?

[joey81]

Where to buy the replacement blades if ever?

2012NB knives are compatible according to this thread. (http://pinoyhandyman.com/showthread.php?t=467)

[timber715]

2012NB knives are compatible according to this thread. (http://pinoyhandyman.com/showthread.php?t=467)
2012NB blades would cost close to what you paid for it brader...:dog1:

[JayL]

2012NB blades would cost close to what you paid for it brader...:dog1:

That was what I was thinking too. Maybe it's better to get another thicknesser for spare blades and spare parts source as well.

[Armand]

Guys, for all your blade sharpening needs, basta pahaba ang blade, contact this company (http://www.lexus-kgmi.com.ph/services.html).

They are our machine supplier and all our blades for paper cutters 6" x 48" are serviced by them. We have plenty of blades similar to thicknessers (2x taller) which they regularly sharpen for only P486 each.

[timber715]

Guys, for all your blade sharpening needs, basta pahaba ang blade, contact this company (http://www.lexus-kgmi.com.ph/services.html).

They are our machine supplier and all our blades for paper cutters 6" x 48" are serviced by them. We have plenty of blades similar to thicknessers (2x taller) which they regularly sharpen for only P486 each.
I like it, kaya lang would they accept a very thin blade such as the 2012's, paper cutter blades are thicker I believe which is easier to set into a machine... Oh well, I will call them bukas. It wouldn't hurt to ask I guess since they are near my shop... Thanks for the link Armand.

[bigfoot2]

I have used that shop before, but it was 10 yrs ago, I was trying to recall where it was. Most printing presses go to them for sharpening needs. Thank for the info.

[timber715]

I have used that shop before, but it was 10 yrs ago, I was trying to recall where it was. Most printing presses go to them for sharpening needs. Thank for the info.
baka pwede ts blade dun Jun :juggle:

[Armand]

I like it, kaya lang would they accept a very thin blade such as the 2012's, paper cutter blades are thicker I believe which is easier to set into a machine... Oh well, I will call them bukas. It wouldn't hurt to ask I guess since they are near my shop... Thanks for the link Armand.

I think pwede ang thicknesser blade, the blades of our checkbooks finishing systems have the same thickness and length of a thicknesser blade, just 2x taller.

Sharpening for TS blade? meron din...here's the info...sa bandang east nga lang.


Engr. Rolly Licuanan
KingsVille, Antipolo

Product and Services: cutter blocks,router bits,finger joints,planer knives,saw blades

#0926-649-9374, landline: 6452696

His shop do the sharpening of TS blades for sash factories. He charges 3 pesos per tooth.
Been to his place twice and he made me a router bit for T-Slot for 500 pesos.

He's a retired engineer and a woodworker in his prime, knows all the type of woods and their density and individual property. He installed air dryer for most lumber supplier and kiln dryer in his younger days.

Yun lang ang haba mag kwento, tagal ng usapan..he needs a listener kasi.

[jarod]

Thanks for the leads Armand, may walking directory na tayo :)

[Armand]

Thanks for the leads Armand, may walking directory na tayo :)


meron pa ako alam....:secret: CNC manufacturer/distributor and supplier of spiral bits for router. Mahal lang last time i asked thru phone P1800 for 1/4" shank...dont know how the price compares to online ordering..pero meron daw sila..:secret:...:)

[bigfoot2]

Usually U$17-25 for a 1/4" spiral upcut.

[Armand]

Usually U$17-25 for a 1/4" spiral upcut. + shipping cost pa cguro to.


Here's the link: Primark (http://www.primark.ph/)

They sell endmills and carbide bits.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-pGmKoj6nCsg/ToKK8jaginI/AAAAAAAABgY/4QNjcm5b16s/s400/endmill%252520bit.jpg


@bigfoot:

I have 1/4" HSS 4-flutes endmill bit bought at T. Alonzo for P70 even before you went to that store you mentioned earlier. I tried it on my router and it works, i just don't how it compares to actual spiral upcut bit but it cuts cleaner and faster than my straight router bit. The carbide endmill bit is around P700.

[timber715]

+ shipping cost pa cguro to.


Here's the link: Primark (http://www.primark.ph/)

They sell endmills and carbide bits.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-pGmKoj6nCsg/ToKK8jaginI/AAAAAAAABgY/4QNjcm5b16s/s400/endmill%252520bit.jpg


@bigfoot:

I have 1/4" HSS 4-flutes endmill bit bought at T. Alonzo for P70 even before you went to that store you mentioned earlier. I tried it on my router and it works, i just don't how it compares to actual spiral upcut bit but it cuts cleaner and faster than my straight router bit. The carbide endmill bit is around P700.

I have about four 4-flute endmills myself and several 2-flute ones and a real 2-flute router bit. From my impressions, a 4-flute endmill will have a very hard time cutting mortices, no problem with tenons. 2-flute endmills will work a little better at mortices though they still have a hard time boring and work better at tenons. The 2-flute spiral bits however dig mortices like they are drill bits and rout much faster and better than endmills as well as tenon cutting. All are upcut models and all are 1/2" straight bits...

[Armand]

@ timber:
nothing can compare to upcut or downcut spiral router bits when it comes to wood milling. Maybe my straight router bit is overused na or dull na thats why i feel the 4-flute endmill bit was working better...

2-flute endmill bit..this is interesting to try sayang walang ganito when i bought my 4-flute endmill bit..my intention was just to experiment.:confused:..

Maybe when i go back to the store I should talk to the store owner and ask if he can bring in spiral router bit.

[timber715]

I also got them for trial and experimentation Armand, but I was able to get a hold of two flute endmills to try. they were better than the 4-fluted ones but....
Magastos talaga if you want to find ways to improve the craft brader, but we will only get better if we try and find new ways. What others may not know is we do have lots of things we do not share that we have learned thru gastos (huhuhu) and experimentation.

[jarod]

Uhm, there are lots of info about endmill and spiral bits but i am interested to know how the experienced guys here in PHM would define each according to their experiments.

[Armand]

I also got them for trial and experimentation Armand, but I was able to get a hold of two flute endmills to try. they were better than the 4-fluted ones but....
Magastos talaga if you want to find ways to improve the craft brader, but we will only get better if we try and find new ways. What others may not know is we do have lots of things we do not share that we have learned thru gastos (huhuhu) and experimentation.


:thumbup: Like

[willyfernando]

I saw the 8" cutter head at ARQ and it costs p5.5k including the blades and pillowblocks, wala pa motor. The diameter was big, with 3 blades, that size will require a 3HP induction motor. The John Bensen at 16k was ok na sana but being 6" is to small for me.

I'm in a hurry to have one for the ordered jewelry boxes kasi, in time for xmas giveaways.[/QUOTE]

Once in a while we get lucky. Look what i got for 10k......

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k571/willyfernando/Jointer/jointer-1.jpg
It's a 12" Japanese unit and powered by an old 5hp Mindong single phase motor.:bravo:

[Armand]

Once in a while we get lucky. Look what i got for 10k......

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k571/willyfernando/Jointer/th_jointer.jpg?t=1303067512

It's a 12" Japanese unit and powered by an old 5hp Mindong single phase motor.:bravo:

wow...that's a real lucky find.

[willyfernando]

wow...that's a real lucky find.

That's just the half of it, look at the back of the pic, the thickness planer in the back is a 16", 750 kilo beast. I got it for 20K.:hysterical: Indeed it was a LUCKY find. I'm always lucky w/ these japanese beasts. I have an import source that brings units like these once in a while.

[JayL]

Glad you got some good deals Willy.... those tools look really well built.

[willyfernando]

Glad you got some good deals Willy.... those tools look really well built.

Tnx JayL. Though they aren't so impressive w/ their looks they sure have the muscle I need for continuos production. I always marvel at the tools you guys have in your arsenal but I know if I buy them they will only wind up lost or damaged by my workers in the end that's why I prefer heavily built industrials.

[violaine]

@willy,

big heavy robust machines at a steal!

:sunny:

[willyfernando]

@willy,

big heavy robust machines at a steal!

:sunny:

Tnx "V". Robust they really are. Now i'd like to see any of my workers try to dent them...:rolleyes:

[JayL]

Tnx JayL. Though they aren't so impressive w/ their looks they sure have the muscle I need for continuos production. I always marvel at the tools you guys have in your arsenal but I know if I buy them they will only wind up lost or damaged by my workers in the end that's why I prefer heavily built industrials.

I'd do the same if going commercial.

Still a lot of us here are DIY thus the tool choice is a bit different. Some , I for one even treat the tools as toys for hobbies with minimal considerations on ROI in monetary terms.

Please keep on posting. I believe you are giving real world insights on a commercial operation that would be of big help and service to members who would like to take their craft and skills to a higher level.

Thanks too.

[bigfoot2]

Nice TOYS Willy, maybe you can make another thread for your big toys. We're intrigued on the Big Toys you're playing with.

[guad]

I always marvel at the tools you guys have in your arsenal but I know if I buy them they will only wind up lost or damaged by my workers in the end that's why I prefer heavily built industrials.

If only there were some practical and effective way to minimize 'loss' and have tools be well taken care of. There's the small tools (screwdrivers, etc.) and the big expensive tools. I wonder how the car repair shops, construction companies, etc. deal with this problem.

Require people to buy and own their own small tools? Some kind of check out/in system? Just give up on any hope that the tools would be cared for and just budget for replacing them regularly?

(Sorry, OT.)

[JayL]

Some of the tools posted by members are actually good even for commercial use as well and sometimes even industrial. The problem in a production type environment these tools need people who actually understand the tools and their strengths / weaknesses.

Tool loss ... yes this is a problem here as well.

i.e. Bosch, Rikon, Leigh, Metabo, Miller, Makita, Snap On, Knipex, Victor, Ingersol Rand etc... Looks like our workforce should move ahead .... easier said than done.

[willyfernando]

Tool loss ... yes this is a problem here as well.

i.e. Bosch, Rikon, Leigh, Metabo, Miller, Makita, Snap On, Knipex, Victor. etc... Looks like our workforce should move ahead .... easier said than done.[/QUOTE]

I feel for you JayL, I feel for you Brader.......:(
I hope you were able to save some of your water soaked items.:consoling2:

[willyfernando]

Nice TOYS Willy, maybe you can make another thread for your big toys. We're intrigued on the Big Toys you're playing with.

Hi bigfoot2, tnx for the nod on my toys. I will feature some of my big old muscle machines like my 3-in-1 japanese thickness planer, jointer and table saw and more. :)

[jarod]

Require people to buy and own their own small tools? Some kind of check out/in system? Just give up on any hope that the tools would be cared for and just budget for replacing them regularly?(Sorry, OT.)

One I think of is, assign an identical kit/specific tool accountable for each person to take care of and pay when something gets lost in his kit.

[owyn]

I saw the 8" cutter head at ARQ and it costs p5.5k including the blades and pillowblocks, wala pa motor. The diameter was big, with 3 blades, that size will require a 3HP induction motor. The John Bensen at 16k was ok na sana but being 6" is to small for me.

I'm in a hurry to have one for the ordered jewelry boxes kasi, in time for xmas giveaways.

Once in a while we get lucky. Look what i got for 10k......

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k571/willyfernando/Jointer/jointer-1.jpg
It's a 12" Japanese unit and powered by an old 5hp Mindong single phase motor.:bravo:[/QUOTE]

Tapos ang usapan. These japanese jointers... browsing through owwm, americans have this tremendous belief in their products as if theirs is always superior. These japanese jointers are at least in the class of oliver and northfield if not better. Been looking at these beauties before here:

(Prices are for used/reconditioned and not new, divide yen by half and that's roughly the peso equivalent.)
http://www.dougukan.net/categories/6_101/

http://www.dougukan.net/categories/6/